Haystacker

Wow! It sure looks nice.

Nice job!

Yes I do glue first. I recon I'm just a spazz. I have to cut the bottom larger and I still have to be careful with the line up. I guess that's why some of us are artist, some of us are craftsman and some of us are - me.

I agree with twins critical eye. However, looking at the photo of the holster in use - man that is a fine looking rig. I really like the color. Bottom line you did a great job for a first holster.

Good job Joker. I really like the knife sheath.

Hey Particle, I make my belts out of two layers of 6/7. The top layer is 1.5 inches wide and the bottom is 2 inches wide. I trim the bottom to fit the top after I sew. How are you going to make yours? I thought about making a jig so that I can cut both top and bottom same width. Jeff

Dave, That's one fine looking rig.

First of all, good work. Those look real good. Second, one of the members on this forum, Particle, has a holster building tutorial on his website. He shows how to make belt slots that I think will be what you are looking for. And last, welcome to the forum and holster making.

Brad, I am not a knife maker or sheath maker. But I sure like the looks of these. Great job.

Yeah. My opinion - double layers of 6/7 is just about perfect for concealed carry gun belts.

Hey Troop, I use double layers of 6/7 for concealed carry gun belts. It seems like this is a pretty good combination. Not too heavy but it can still hold up to the largest handguns. Jeff

Extremely nice. I like his taste too.

Thanks for the compliments. I used brass line 24 snaps from Tandy.

This is a new holster and ammo pouch I made for a good customer. He has the coolest guns. This is for a Ruger Speed Six 2 and 3/4 inch barrel. 7/8 oz Herman Oak holster and 4/5 oz ammo pouch.

Outstanding. I like the way you incorporated the belt slide on one side with e tunnel in the back. I'm such a moron. I did one with belt slide on both sides. It was too wide. I did another with just the belt tunnel in the back. Not as stable. You are a genius.

Wow. Just saw this. I think your belt and buckle are unique and original. But mostly, I think it is a work of art. Outstanding!

My, my. Looks like we have another holster maker in the offin'. I really like the flare on the reinforcement piece on the second holster. Looks cool. Beware - holster making is addictive!

I bone them with a piece of deer antler while it is in the vacuum bag. I rounded off the antler to approximately 1/2 inch or so. It is much bigger than a sharpie. I think most anything would work. Boning it while in the vacuum bag I think is the trick.

My vote is to go out and buy a new gun. As my grandson said to me" Papa, you can't have too many guns". What a great kid!

These are a couple of holsters I made for revolvers. The one is for a GP100 3 inch barrel and it is molded close. Customer says that it wears good and conceals well. The tan and brown holster is for a j frame. It is not molded as close but it still fits the pistol well. No problem with retention. Jeff Also, these are 7/8 oz herman oak

I like Glocks. But they are ugly. The only thing that can make a glock look good is a good looking holster. You have created a master piece. I like it.

Cool idea, red thread on a black holster. Yellow may look good too. Now you got me thinking.

Nice!

I don't know about trying to glue the gaps at this point. I'm hesitant to give any advice on that. If you sand and finish the edges without glueing them you are still going to have a very good looking usable holster. I agree with what tac said about the saddle soap. Tandy has it too. I cut a manageable chunk off the bar, wet the edge and rub the bar on the edge. I did take a thread spool with a dowel glued through it, covered with denim, and chucked up in my drill press for doing the edges. In my opinion The drill press works better than rubbing the edges by hand. I have no experience finishing with natural stuff like walnut shells or vinagroon. If you search this forum you should be able to find what you are looking for.

One thing you may want to try is to sand your main seam edges. I use a belt sander. If you dont have a belt sander you can still do it by hand. With my belt sander, I do first pass with 80 grit, evens everything up and gets rid of excess glue. Next i wet the edge slightly, and then give it a couple of passes on belt sander with 120 grit. This adds an almost burnishing effect. Then I bevel the edge and slick it up with glycerine bar saddle soap, rubbed in with canvas or denim. Then I give the edge a pass on the burnisher which I use a wooden drawer knob on a drill press. When i did edges before the days of the belt sander, I would keep going with the sand paper until I finished with 400 grit. (80, 150, 220, 400) Thankfully those days are gone. Hope this helps. You sure do good work.