Haystacker

Great looking holster. You got talent!

Hey gregintenn, I was thinking about copying your holster. I thought this would be a good design for the taurus judge. How did you attach the hammer strap? Thanks, Jeff

Thanks for all of the input. I have relocated the thong to the front of the holster. Now, IF someone were to carry cocked and locked, then the thong interferes with the hammer falling. Looks goofy but oh well. I was at a gun show a couple months back. A guy brought me a holster like this with a strap, and asked if I could make one. I recognized this holster as one of the threepersons for a 1911. The only difference was this was a shorter version that allowed different barrel lengths. I thought it was a cool idea. My attempt, whether naively or not, was to come up with a simple leather holster that could be produced inexpensively. That's why I was trying the tie down thong as opposed to the strap. Tie down thongs are less man hours and less expensive. The naive part was I was trying to make an alternative to the nylon holsters. I really don't know why someone would wear a threeperson holster. I know it was designed by a famous lawman to meet his carry criteria. It is not a concealed carry holster. I think there is a retro popularity. I just like the looks of them. I don't want to defend this holster design. It is not my design. I had a brain fart when I looked at the location of the tie down thong on my 1911 dummy. I could not understand if I was deactivating the grip safety or not. So in my laziness, i tried to ask on this forum about the safety. I should have been more specific in my question. My bad. I apologize for stirring up a hornet's nest. I do appreciate everyone for taking the time to respond.

I converted my garage into my workshop. I insulated the walls and then covered them with osb. I use screws in the osb to hang my dummies and my patterns. I have to come up with some way to keep the patterns from blowing away when the door is open. But I have a few months before I have to worry about that. I will probably use clothes pins on the screws,

I use my stitch groover on top side only. I over size the back piece. Glue both together. I use a weight on top of holster until glue thoroughly dries. Stitch. Cut bottom to fit top piece. Then I sand edges. Like everyone else, I too have been on the quest for perfect edges. I use the harbor freight belt sander. First I use 80 grit and even everything up. Then I wet the edges of my holster with a wet paper towel. Then I use 120 grit on the belt sander. Sands and has a burnishing effect. Hope this helps.

This is a rough design of a 1911 holster. My question is about the tie down lace. Is it in a "safe" position? It has been years since I have used 1911's and since I suffer from CRS, I would sure appreciate anyone in the know chiming in. I am trying to build an inexpensive holster for gun shows. I like the tie down lace instead of the strap with snaps. This design takes less time than the strap and snap. Thanks Jeff[]

Nice holster. It takes me about 20 minutes to sew a belt with a motored machine. Did you make the belt that you are wearing in the photo? Either way good looking belt too.

Good job. I really like the holster.

Hey good job. Nice lines. For belt slots, I wet the slots and then rub a little glycerine bar saddle soap. Then I burnish the slots with a deer antler. Slicks em up real good.

Different people do different things. I offer gun belts made of two layers of 6/7 oz Herman Oak A grade (I use backs). The layers are glued and stitched. I color the top layer before I glue the two pieces together. The bottom layer is left uncolored. I also use my belt sander to "skive" the buckle ends of the two pieces. This gives a belt just less than a quarter of an inch thick. I have found this is an ideal thickness and makes for a very usable "gun" belt. I have also made them for folks that just want a nice heavy duty belt. I am thinking about making a less expensive line of gun belt. I was thinking about a single layer of 10/12 oz leather, not herman oak. The single layer will not last as long but will probably be better than most belts you find for carrying concealed. Even the belts that I have seen from the cop shops are not that heavy. Hope this helps.

Wow. Glocks are sooooo ugly. The only thing that can help a Glock's looks is a nice holster. Man you have done it. That is a good looking holster. As far as the lining. The only tried and true rule that i have heard in holster making is veg tanned leather only. All other rules may have an exception, but not that one.

Sixer. I use deer antler. I have 3 different pieces, different sizes. Your holsters look good. I was wondering on the HK holster if maybe the leather was too wet when you tried the boning? Also, as someone else posted a while ago, I use the vacuum bag. I bone right through the bag. I'm such a spazz, so when I do make a mistake, the bag makes the boning more forgiving. Jeff

What Denster said. I start all of my patterns by first drawing a belt on the pattern material. Then everything is relative to the belt lines. Also a neutral cant seems easier to draw the weapon from the holster than a forward cant. The forward cant seems easier to conceal. I said all that to say this, your slightly reward cant may not be a bad thing. Jeff

Nice work. Those look good. Good luck in your quest for the perfect finish. I think you will eventually find what you like.

Nice.

I like it. Good job.

I do. I made a hot box with heat lamps. The box is about six feet tall and I hang the holsters at the top. The heat lamps are in the bottom of the box so it is well away from the heat source. I have only had problems with the s/w j frame mold. The trigger guard got deformed. All of the other molds seem to be built up in the trigger guard area.

I make this one for the 2.5 inch cylinder Judge. Very comfortable hunting holster. I use buckles with lots of holes so it can fit either over hunting close or tee shirt. I mold the holster to the pistol but since it has a retention strap, molding is just for looks. If interested email me with your address and I will send you a copy of what I have. Jeff

I'm just glad they make chocolate and vanilla. I think I remember who the grumpy old guy was that I got the mop and glow idea from. My respects to you sir. Jeff

I like the mop and glow a lot. I tried all the sheens and also the angelus acrilc. I never was satisfied with the feel. I always thought they were too tacky. Then I read on here a posting from some old grumpy guy about the mop and glow. I tried it and now I like it. I believe it wears as well as anything else. Jeff

I've finally settled on my finish. Been doing this consistently for about a year now. I dip my holsters and belts. Just a quick in and out making sure everything was covered. Then I let it dry. I try to let it set for 24 hours and then give it another dip. Works great, no runs. I use mop and glow cut with water - 50/50 mix.

Looks great. Very good job.

I placed an order for 5 sides and 5 backs from herman oak. I've used 3 of each so far. My next order will be all backs. To me, the backs have less waste. I bought a grade except one b grade side I think. I'm gonna stick with a grade backs. I just like the quality. Jeff

Man I really like this black one. Only critique is maybe some tru ivory grips for your 44 special. Nice holster.

Very nice. The edges on the bottom photo look real good.