barehandcustoms

Got tired of constantly sharpening the blades that comes with it. Also the factory blades are thicker and hard to pull through thick leather unless recently sharpened. I started using regular box razor blades and they seem to work much better. They are thinner and glide through thick leather like butter plus you just replace it with a fresh blade when needed. Been doing this for awhile and never had them slip out or anything.....Surely I'm not the only one doing this?

http://www.exoticleather.biz/wholesale/ I can't vouch for their wholesale side of things but probably worth sending them an email about the wholesale price of toad hides.

http://springfieldleather.com/search?keywords=toad Just about every color out there of toad at average cost http://toadshop.com/48-cane-toad-skin.html Cheap but only one color

The videos below should help you get started. There is also a ton of information floating around this forum. Tools https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1pAMZQpYFA More Tools https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTfMRaVyCd4 Types of Leather https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6p_5b9t35w Hand Stitching https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0EL7K2NhYs Hardware https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2TERaPXYZSQ

You'll probably do better just searching for "Pig Leather" Some stuff below...hope that helps http://www.ebay.com/usr/youngfalcon4421?_trksid=p2047675.l2559 Search his store for Wild Boar Hides - Suede https://www.brettunsvillage.com/leather/smallhides/ Couple types of Suede as well - Red, Tan and Brown https://www.etsy.com/listing/512835088/oxblood-leather-hide-heavy-weight-pig?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=pigskin leather hide&ref=sr_gallery_11 Furries seems to have some actual hides for sale

http://store.rojeleather.com/shark/ Also you can pick up smaller pieces of shark on Ebay http://www.glacierwear.com/beaver-tails.html Beaver Tails - Also found all over Ebay

They are called English Girth Buckles. Only place I can find that exact one is at the link below. Good luck getting them ordered http://www.domvet.com/pharmvet/buckle.html Stainless steel lost wax with roller No. 19151 1"

Very nice Can I order more teeth if I beat them all to hell overtime?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Nickel-Plated-Steel-Double-Tongue-Roller-Buckle-/121575168020?var=&hash=item1c4e71d814:m:mxqTnmOojpYY67R9xOqtwWA Not sure what quality you are looking for but this will get you going without a huge minimum order.

Probably not the answer you wanted but this link answers all those questions. http://guides.wsj.com/small-business/starting-a-business/how-to-trademark-a-company-name/ Short answer: As long as you have a very unique company name then it can take a few hours plus the filing fee *$275 to $300* to submit the form. Make sure your name isn't taken then fill out the form to trademark it. Pretty easy stuff Wait around two to six months to find out whether it was accepted or not. ** People will still use your name, ideas and logos....It generally isn't profitable to go after them either. Unless there is a lot of money involved it will be a net loss to police people using your ideas even after you trademark.

First off, do everything in light coats and take your time. People are prone to apply too much at one time or not wait long enough between coats. Dark Leather - I use warm water and wipe the leather down a few times to clean it then leave it at room temperature to dry out. Once the leather has some moisture in it then I use several light coats of Neatsfoot oil until the piece feels supple to the touch again. Do one side at a time so gravity works in your favor. I generally wait about 15 minutes between each coat of oil to let it soak into the leather. Lighter colors or natural leather - I use warm water and wipe the leather down with a soft rag to clean it then let it dry out naturally at room temperature. DO NOT use Neatsfoot oil on lighter leather to rejuvenate it since this will darken the leather. Use a good saddle soap or surface conditioner instead. What I do is lightly wipe the surface down again with a wet rag to get the surface moist. I let the water soak in for a few minutes then apply light coats of saddle soap or conditioner to the leather. Wet then wait then oil then wait...rinse and repeat until you're happy with the results. One side at a time.....

You can burnish and bevel the edges but it can be a chore due to the thickness of 4oz leather. A Dremel with a small edge burnishing attachment works great for thin leather but a hand burnisher will work just fine. It also helps to gently secure the leather between two pieces of wood so it doesn't constantly bend back or wobble on you. Just make sure you put something between the leather and the wood so it doesn't scratch anything up. I don't use the hand edge bevelers on really thin leather. I found it much easier to just get some sand paper and lightly rub the edges off before burnishing.I also do not apply any kind of finish to that style of leather since that can cause permanent discoloration and usually isn't necessary. The treatment process to achieve that kind of look crams the leather full of all kinds of wax and oils. I might do a very light coat to prevent moisture problems during shipping but that is all. Plus stone oil leather is meant to fade into an antiqued look overtime so oiling it isn't a good idea. Hope that helps!

I ran into the same issue with them near the end of last year. It took a few weeks to get my order and I have been shy about ordering from them ever since. I can ship something over seas quicker than that so this appears to be a sluggish online order fulfillment process. Granted the leather was great and they are one of the few people who accept Paypal. Most people don't mind waiting for *good* product as long as they are prepared for it. I will still buy from them again but it sounds like they are understaffed and overwhelmed.