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About rburson

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Northwest Ohio
  • Interests
    Sewing and restoring old machines

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Small Leather goods
  • Interested in learning about
    keeping machines running and new techniques.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

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  1. This is what I use works good I cut with my normal leather working tools and it holds up fairly well https://www.springfieldleather.com/Sheet-Poly-Clear-023?quantity=1&page=1 This is what I use works good I cut with my normal leather working tools and it holds up fairly well https://www.springfieldleather.com/Sheet-Poly-Clear-023?quantity=1&page=1
  2. I had one fitted to a 111W154 that I just let dangle from the hand wheel and never had any trouble with. Just removed it when I added a box style speed reducer.
  3. T2 laser is a good program easy to use very limited free trial but enough to make sure it is compatible with your machine . Light Burn is also a good program a little more powerful longer learning cure but more feature 30 day trial then like 40 bucks so very reasonable. I have paid for both and use them both at same time but I also have two lasers that I run. Before the world shut down I was burning Leather all day on Sunday then stitching wallets and money clips riveting key fobs together.every night after work all week. The laser certainly opens up new avenues of leather work.
  4. You may be able to use a nylon footy until your netting gets there
  5. I think there are better deals out there I have a 30x18cm cnc with a laser head I started with and mover up to a 50x65 cm laser engraver you have to assemble them yourself but definetly the possibilities are endless. I am currently using a 3500 mw laser and it is plenty for leather work. There is a learning curve but once you get the hang its am amazing tool.
  6. Yes they are available I bet Cowboy Bob Toledo Industrial Sewing has some if not google part number easy to find. Bob is an advertiser and great help here on the site.
  7. You can buy that piece of leather all ready die cut pretty cheap cuts waste and labor down. I make some using a laser and it keeps waste down to nothing . Even with a clicker die you will have considerable waste.
  8. I use a 20U for my linings and other Fabric needs it is a very solid machine. Mine is setup with a servo motor and runs very smooth. When I first got it it had a clutch motor I don't think I would have any fingers left if I tried to sew at those speeds. I just ordered a single hole needle plate from Amazon it arrived in 4 days and came with a feed dog. I was having issues making masks to donate the thin fabric was trying to get stuck in the needle plate hole
  9. Maybe you could open the seam up on outside pinky side of glove then with the additional room you maybe able to stitch on a patch then after ward close the seam back up.I have done the same thing to repair pants and pockets on coveralls.
  10. Check to make sure the needle is not twisted slightly if you have replaced it lately. Also double check the thread path and verify it is correct after thread change. Both of those things have caused me thread breakage and much aggravation in the past.
  11. I would try Oxalic acid. I had some rust marks show up on a case I was wet molding from my clamps and mixed a small batch up it took all the dark spots of. I ordered mine from Amazon it was pretty cheap.
  12. Here is a picture of a Box style I purchased from Bob recently it is awesome. I am using it on my 111w154 which has a small motor pulley and a servo motor. This thing is awesome slows machine down to a point where I can stop at any point during the up or down stroke. I am lucky enough to live about 8 miles from Toledo Industrial Sewing so I can drive over and get parts and great advice easily. I bought a CB3200 that had one installed and that really showed me what control i. I thought using my Needle position sensor was giving me good control but I realized that while it allowed me to stop at bottom or top of stroke I didn't have good control of the speed it went up and down only that I could go one stitch at a time. I believe I paid around 200 for the box reducer.
  13. Always thread machine with presser foot in raised position to release tension and allow the thread to drop properly into tension disks Also remember to hold both top and bottom tread securely in your hand when starting the first couple stitches to prevent it from getting tangled and making a mess My 2 cents
  14. I have a 111w152 fitted with a servo and 45 mm pulley and a needle positioner. I like that 1 tap of pedal will take needle down thru 1 full stitch just till it is starting on way up no missed stitches. With no reverse on this machine I can start out facing backwards tap 3 taps and no I will have 3 complete stitches then turn my work around and run it at a very comfortable speed with the servo motor speed set at 500 rpm top speed.Then when I reach end of my stitching 1 tap with heel on front of the pedal and the needle goes to the top and I can release presser foot and pull work out no manual hand wheeling at all. When I first installed it I had it stopping at very bottom and would skip stitches and I would have to work the hand wheel to get the thread to release from the rotating hook assembly.I can punch thru about 3/8" of leather with no problem 1 stitch at a time.
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