Ralihaus

I haven’t sealed it with anything yet. Just paint the Hi-Lite. I’ve never painted over the hi-lite so wondering if it’s ok to paint over.

Hello. I’m almost finished with a project. I tooled, painted it and then applied Tandy Hi-Lite Briar brown. I realized it didn’t fill in enough shaded areas. I want to paint over the hi-lite now. I haven’t done this before. Can I paint right over it? Do I need to sand it first? Will it wipe off overtime? it’s going on a firefighter shield so it maybe be exposed to heat and water. thanks in advance.

Thank you all for the reply’s. Merry Christmas

Hello. I’ve always used the eco flow black water stain for my projects. I don’t like that I have to apply 3 coats for it to look dark black. I’m using veg tan leather, tooling, dye and then painting. I decided to try the fiebings USMC Black leather dye on a recent project. It never really dried. It was chalky and I could rub it and black chalk like dye came off on my fingers and paper towels. I let my project dry 24hr’s before applying this dye. It also made some of my texturing pop back out out the leather. I had to fully wipe it down with a wet wash cloth and then apply the water stain dye for it to look ok. any ideas why this happened? Any suggestions? Thanks.

Ok. Hello. First time user. I made a leather product for a customer out of veg tan leather. Cut, tooled and dyed black(water stain). Then I used sheen spray to finish the product. (Using all Tandy leather stuff) Then she wanted her project colored. So I painted with acrylic paint right on top of the sheen spray about a day later. Well the paint won’t soak in. It looks blotchy and watered down after it dries. I’ve heard you can paint right on top of tan kote so I thought this would be the same thing. Any ideas? I still plan on using an antique once I can get it painted correctly. More coats? . Thanks!!!

link doesn't work. can you post pics?

i am interested. Can you send me a text? 760-521-4567

Please text me. I have some questions. Thank you. 760-521-4567

I dont know whats going on with this machine but beware. i first contacted this seller with my main email address. we negotiated and came to an agreement on price with me paying for shipping. Then all of the sudden she didnt return my emails for about 2 weeks. so i used a different email and offered the same ammount. she agreed and asked me to prepare shipping. she even asked me to pay for the bubble wrap to wrap it in. i set up shipping with someone on uship.com. This took time and effort on my end as well as the shipper. Now guess what, i cant get her to return my emails. once again its been about a week with no responses. im willing to pay 1500, pay for shipping and even the 5 extra dollars for bubble wrap but........no returned emails once again afer weeks of talking and preparing to purchase. very frustrating. This is what makes this site very unreliable. buy at your own risk.

Can you email me if this is still available. Thanks Ralihaus@gmail.com

Is this machine still available? Email me if so. Ralihaus@gmail.com

Hello, I'm making a project with a piece of veg tan leather that is carved, stamped and dyed with medium brown Waterston dye from Tandy leather. The piece will be attached to a plaque for a gift. I have oil for after I carve and stamp, then i will dye it. Next my plan is to apply aussie leather conditioner then tan kote. I want to know if this is the right order for oil, conditioner and the tan kote. Will brushing the tan kote on mess with the conditiiner? Should I put the conditioner on after the tan kote? Any advice would be very helpful. I'd like to know how you would do it. Thanks so much

Thanks guys. Right now I use aussit leather conditioner by fieblings. Any idea how this compares to the others? One better for weathered use than the other? Thanks. Thanks guys. Right now I use aussit leather conditioner by fieblings. Any idea how this compares to the others? One better for weathered use than the other? Thanks.

I make firefighter belts. The belts are exposed to heat and water. I currently use Latigo side and strip them out for belts. I use a conditioner and tan kote on the finished product. Is there anything else I should be doing? Also when the belts are exposed to lots of water and heat the get stiff and dry. So far I just clean with saddle soap, neat foot oil, then condition them again. Any advice on finishing products, or products to use when the belts become stiff from water and heat,would be much appreciated. Thanks

Hello, I have been doing leather for firemen for about 2 years now. I know what's best for the product i put out. However, I was asked recently to make a duck lanyard for a friend. This lanyard would be used for securing ducks after hunting. I can post a pic of one soon. My question is, what is the best leather to use for this project. I use Latigo for my firemen belts. I am wondering what is a good leather, that can be tooled, and will stand up to wetter. This lanyard would be getting wet and dry and wet and dry over and over again. Any advice on leather choice, conditioning, finishes, any recommendations would be very helpful. Thanks so much.

Still available?

Cool. All done. So far that technique looks pretty solid. Thanks for the help!

Thanks guys! I will try that method and see how I like the results. Thanks again.

Hi everybody. I've been sewing firefighter axe belts and helmet shields for about a year now with my tippmann boss. It's works great for my application. Today I ran into a problem. The bobin ran out of thread while I was in the middle of sewing a belt. I'm usually pretty good at keeping an eye on my bobin thread. So now I just have 2 loose thread ends sticking out mid belt. Do I have to un-thread everything by hand and start over? I usually back stitch a couple holes to create a tight lockstitch as tippmann recommends. Can I just start a new bobin and stitch back a couple holes and then forward with my belt? Will this create a lockstitch or do I run the risk of the thread coming loose and backing out overtime? Any advice or help is much appreciated. Thank you!