TwinOaks

Some while back (and you can still find them on Ebay) all the rage was ruby blades- there was a man- made ruby as the cutting edge. Now, they aren't the rage anymore because swivel knives occasionally get dropped, bumped into other things, etc., and that can chip the ruby. Yes, diamond is harder than ruby, but it's also potentially going to chip like the ruby blades did. I suppose that if you could talk to the guy doing PVD (plasma vapor deposit) you could get very thin manufactured diamond, but it just isn't practical. There's been so much advancement in metalurgy and ceramics in the last few decades that trying to develop a diamond edged blade would be impractical at best and prohibitively expensive. Now, there's the discussion of proper blade geometry for a swivel knife- and there is more than one way to do things. Personally, I like a thin, acute edge for thicker leather and a wider edge for thin leather. You can see where this starts to get complicated...... Grab yourself a decent knife to learn with and when you out perform the knife, upgrade to a really nice one-----or just get the nice one to start with if you've got an extra $150. I'm using the same blades I got when I 'inherited' my dad's leather working kit. Read the info here on how to sharpen and STROP the blade and your grand kids will likely use it someday. Properly sharpened, the blade will seldom need more than a quick trip to the strop (just to polish it a bit).

Icepick.....no, but I like the way you're thinking. One of the old hands on here once mentioned using spokes (bicycle) to make awls, but I haven't tried that one. The reason we use a particular awl is the shape of the hole it makes. Our common awl has a diamond shaped cross section to it, and while the point should be sharp enough to get mostly through your finger before really feeling it (yes, I'm serious, and yes I've done it) the edges of the awl should not be 'sharpened' to any kind of cutting edge. Think of the edges as more of a distal taper. The diamond cross section makes a very nice hole that closes up rather neatly. Also, with the correct consistant orientation, the holes help lay your stitches at a particular angle which is very attractive. (Read more about hand stitching and making every stitch the same way, every time.) If you were asking about smacking a regular fork, not a 4 prong lacing chisel.......no. You can use a table fork to make light indentations in the leather to mark the locations of holes to made with the awl. For general use, pick up an Osborne from Tandy. It isn't the best, but it will do what you need for a good while. If you want the best, go ahead and order one from Bob Douglas.

Click on the Ad links at the top of the page. If you see leather you like, but don't want all that much of it, look at Springfield - they will cut leather. And, per your other thread, if you'll be making sheaths, stay away from Chrome tanned leather; use veg tan. You'll likely want to use 8-10 oz leather for the sheaths. It's plenty strong/durable enough, and by the time you add a welt to a seam, you'll be looking at stabbing a hole through close to 1/3 inch even on the lighter leather- really close to 1/2 inch with 10oz.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! It's not a bad 'starter set', but for the current price (which very well may go up) + shipping, you're already over your estimated $60 for tools. Plus, it doesn't have some of the essential things you'll need for sheath making. If you just want that set of tools, then by all means go ahead and get it, but for a bare knuckle starter set for you , you can do better. Noah gave you a pretty good list, to which I would add an edger- this tool helps shape the edges to provide a better appearance. Most of the simple modeling tools you could easily make considering your apprenticeship. Same applies to the stamps, providing you have (or have access to) metal working tools like files, sanders, grinders, etc. (Yeah, I know, blacksmiths generally have these) Making your own tools has some advantages in that you can customize them to what YOU need. Several of the stamps in the ebay item would be redundant. For most leatherworkers, we have a boat load of stamps that we bought for one thing, then haven't used the particular stamp for a long time. Then we have the everyday 'go to' tools, that get used all the time. My personal view of things is that you should know how to fully use a few tools well than to have 500 tools that you know little about. Things IMO, that you'll need to BUY (at least the first time) are a good awl, the stitch groover, a low end swivel knife to learn with(hey, you can modify/redesign it as you need to, and I think it was Al Stohlman who used a sharpened screwdriver at times), the edger, and some sewing materials. Or if you're pretty advanced with metal work, just look at the tools being used/offered and make your own. I quit buying the "harness needles" a while back because they have a large eye which is easier to break. I now buy a multi-pack of needles from Walmart, and get my waxed linen there or Hobby Lobby. The needles are sharp point, but that's easy to fix . As was mentioned, if nothing else is handy, a fork makes a dandy stitch marker. You'll also want a set of wing dividers (or a kid's compass from the back to school section of you're local box-mart). You can use either to mark stitches, scribe your stitch line a consistent distance from the edge, etc. The easiest way is to measure you total stitch line length, then divide by the number of stitches per inch you want ( 4spi, 5spi, 6spi, etc.) This may actually work out better than a stitch wheel because some stitch lengths (on a wheel) may leave you with an odd stitch out, looking uneven. For finishes, you can use mundane things around the house like olive oil, vinegaroon (if you want black) do a search for it here and you'll get more info than I can retype in a day, common shoe polish, and Mop & Glo. For dyes you can use anything- coffee, tea, sunlight.... Or you can call your local leather supplier or visit one of the advertiser links at the top of the page to order them. You can get by without the groover by using the dull edge of a table knife and just pressing in a groove instead of removing leather to make one. The other resources you'll need are Leather, of course, and Leatherworker.net. Suggested first reading: Topics on handstitching, the "finishing edges" tutorial by Bob Park, and most of the 'pinned' topics in the holsters, sheaths, etc. subforum. You'll also get some good info in "finishes" subforum. . . . . . Basically, there's a ton of info here that covers most questions you can think of. However, while we might point you to a thread for further reading and explanation, we will usually be happy to take the time to just answer the questions directly. Enjoy your new addiction hobby, and ask any questions you might have. Here's a pic of some stamps I made from SS bolts (Lowe's) using a dremel and some polishing compounds. Also, if I've used any tool names that you aren't familiar with, you can check out the advertisers and see them there.

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. There's lots of members, both amateurs and professionals, who'll be happy to help with any questions you might have. Ask away, and enjoy one of the friendliest sites on the 'net. And, since you've been working leather for such a long time.....we'd like to see some pics of your work! There's a little tutorial on how to post pics in case you have any problems with it. Grab a seat at the tooling bench, Johanna will have the coffee brewing in a little while.

Attach the base of the snap to the holster with 6-32 or 8-32 machine screws and t-nuts, or use something like a chicago screw. I've seen a lot of use of the 8-32 screws and t-nuts, but I haven't seen any strength issues from the 6-32 size, and with the smaller size, I can pick them up at Lowe's (CHEAP!)and they fit inside the snap with no modification. You can also just attach the strap with Chicago screws and not worry about the snap- That's what I did on my personal EDC, because I'm not going to be taking the holster off until I'm ready to take off my pants. So, no need for snaps.

'cause this needs to be seen.

Greg, when a maker creates something, it IS copyrighted. The little copyright sign is just saying that the maker wishes to let others know that it isn't a freebie. Patents are horribly expensive, and for something like a holster, almost impossible to enforce - unless the maker is just fantastically rich and has money to throw at lawyers. Then there's the issue of knock-offs. These are made (generally) in places where US laws have little or no meaning. Regardless of the legal enforcement issues, the design(s) is/are the legal intellectual property of the maker. Period. Immitation is a great form of flattery- unless a person is using his/her designs to put food on the table, and free copying of that idea throws the designer under the bus. It's a tangled mess to get into, for sure. Lobo: No, you're not the only one who gets the requests. Since the majority of my business is face to face (I'm working on internet sales....but SLOWLY) I just explain the situation to the customers. I had one guy ask me if I could make a "Crossbreed Supertuck" for him. I told him "Sure, no problem!". When he asked me the price, I told him a price that would cover me ordering a CB supertuck, shipping, and a nice little profit margin for me to boot. When he said he could order one from them for less, I agreed. Then we decided on a nice design that wasn't someone else's property. You might consider the same track- put a little notice on the website saying that you can get other holster makers products for people- just at twice the price. For anyone who DOES want to share their patterns, you may wish to consider a Creative Commons license. click here. I'm not saying it's the best way, but it's something to consider.

There has been some discussion of placing an awl needle in a drill press without it running- sounds like it'd make a decent arbor press. The dremel press?? Dunno. You will likely find it easier to penetrate the leather, even at that thickness, if you moisten it first. Also, if you set everything up with rubber cement and get your edges right first....you can make a template for the holes and do one layer at a time.

Good news, I found the holster pattern/ drawing. Bad news- it'll be this weekend before I can re-scan it and post it (I'm on the road).

I'd like to take a moment to let all our new members who aren't sure of their abilities that it doesn't matter. The thing we're working on is fellowship among our members, and the opportunity to improve our skills.

Holly, on at least one of them, we made for the name following ours on the list, then for the one I volunteered for, I randomized the name list in Excel. It has been a long time since we've done one and it's about time for another since we've got so many new members. I'm in for sure. Let me know if you need any help with it.

That would depend on the round knife.....yeah, I know, that's one of those "reach through the screen and choke someone" answers. Really, though, there's a pretty wide variety available. The finer and sharper the 'corner' is, the tighter you can cut. I suppose, though, at some thickness you'd be better off using a scroll saw (sole bends). With that in mind, I've cut 4oz with a round knife to the diameter of a drink straw. Now, I'm not claiming I knew what I was doing or anything, but it can be done. I was just playing around on scrap, and honestly, if I was cutting that small, I'd use a punch, or a trim knife (the one with the curved blade)- much simpler.

Make the investment in a decent head knife or round knife. It is a tool that you'll end up using ALOT, so its just better to get one now and start learning to use it.

Yes, vinegarooning can cause a little loss of definition, and it's because of the reaction INSIDE the leather. If you 'roon a piece, you'll probably notice that the grain side looks a bit shinier. That's because of the tallows being forced to the surface. For most things, you'll need to apply oil/conditioner and rub a bit to force it into the leather. You can apply 'roon with a brush/rag/mop (doesn't matter) instead of dipping. As far as casing after vinegaroon.....I've found that 'rooning the leather tends to impart quite a bit of water resistance to the leather. I've managed to wet mold after 'rooning the leather, but I had to submerge and soak the piece for about half an hour to get enough water in it.

Vinegaroon if making something black, and it "self-finishes". On everything else, I use Aussie conditioner followed up with Neat-lac rubbed in or Leather Balm w/ atom wax. I do like the Resolene on the interiors, as it seals very well and provides a good slick feel.

What I've done with a few revolver holsters is to carry the holster and reinforcement band a little higher on the cylinder/rear shield and make a little bit of a lip there. It isn't as secure as a strap but it helps. When making for a completely shrouded hammer (aka hammerless), there really aren't too many options. Another option is to completely cover the cylinder and hammer (less) portion of the gun with a continuous piece (front of the holster) and extend it to form a strap. Mold the leather to enclose the cylinder when you do this. I'll see if I can find my pattern for this, if not I'll redraw one.

Great job! The only area I see that can use improvement is the edges....unless the intent is a non-colored edge, in which case you did use fine.

A couple of options come to mine- Using wood, you can do it by layering the wood. Cut each layer using router cuts/plunges to make the size cutouts you need. Another idea is.....well, foam. Instead of trying to cut out the foam, build it up. Wrap the tools in plastic wrap, lay them in a tray (same size as the box) and apply Dap Latex foam (or similar product). This will expand, so don't over do it. It will give an exact molding of the tools and their position. Then, remove the tools, and cut the top of the foam down to where you want it. End result is a layer of foam X inches thick with precise molding for your tools.

Well, those details are gonna be asked by any holster maker. As far as handstitching, the only way to get better is to keep doing it . I'll work on getting the pics uploaded to the computer just in case you decide you want to try it.

Details? which side carry, IWB/OWB, retention strap/no strap? I have one that I made for my wife's MP40c, and you can mimic the style if you like.

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. There's lots of members, both amateurs and professionals, who'll be happy to help with any questions you might have. Ask away, and enjoy one of the friendliest sites on the 'net.

Or you can make the tab out of Kydex

All Damascus steel is not equal! If you'd like to spend several enjoyable hours/days/weeks reading about specific metalurgy, start by Googling " Wootz steel. That said, here it is in a nutshell- The wavy patterns mean bumpkiss for edge holding ability. In original Wootz steel, the patterns are formed from repeated folding and forge welding of the steel- similar to katanas (Japanese sword). All the folding (generally speaking) can strengthen the blade (research laminated steel), but strength doesn't equate to sharpness. The antique methods of folding the steel were performed to work out the impurities of the metals. There's also various methods of creating the patterns, and in some cases the 'damascus' patterns are made by acid etching only. Now, to the new Tandy knives- They are pretty aren't they? I'd bet the true "amazing sharpness" advertised on the Tandy website comes from the 16 degree angle, and the carbon content of their "SUS410 High Carbon Stainless Steel" as opposed to stainless steels with less carbon. Nothing against the Tandy blades, but I think you could do as well by finding an older knife of good steel and spending some time for TLC and edge refinement. Check around on here for Bob Douglas' phone number and give him a call. Incidentally, the claim (From the Tandy website) "Damascus" refers to metal with a visible grain pattern, is only true to a point- it became known as Damascus because that is where it was available- Damascus, Syria. More common and recent versions are also called "pattern welded" steel, typically incorporating nickel as one of the laminations, and complex cutting and reforging to achieve the desired patterns.

Luberto's Cub series. They are manual models with a rotary crank.