TwinOaks

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click me for one of the 35 or so topics started on vinegaroon. To see more of them, do an 'advanced search', type in vinegaroon, and click the box for titles.

Adding to BOOMstick's comments, I suggest locating a spray dry-lube with Teflon in it. I use RemDry. Hose down the interior of the holster with the stuff and insert the weapon. You may bag the weapon or not, there's nothing in the spray that'll hurt it. I prefer to NOT use one of the dry lubes that has wax in it (i.e. "dupont teflon multipurpose"....although it's great for sliding doors) that will build up and stand on the weapon when drawn.

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. There's lots of members, both amateurs and professionals, who'll be happy to help with any questions you might have. Ask away, and enjoy one of the friendliest sites on the 'net. To your question: Call Springfield Leather and tell them what you want. They have advertised that they cut leather ( so you don't have to purchase a whole side) and speaking with a person is the best way to ensure you get what you need.

Very Nice! The only thing I see is perhaps adding stitching around the belt slots....if it's glued well, it may not be an issue. Depends on frequency of use.

Folks, This is getting a bit heated with the various opinions about what should or should not be carried as far as insurance, LLC, etc. There is a wealth of knowledge here, and all of us are adults, (or at least pretty close to legal age) so please act accordingly. We can share our thoughts and knowledge without resorting to name calling. Please? If the question posed ( how many have been sued) isn't answered by someone who HAS been sued, then we should presume that either there are none...here..., or those that may have been sued do not wish to, or may not be allowed to, discuss it. I'd like to recommend trying to contact John Bianchi, one of THE premier holster makers, and ask him. He's been doing this for a long time, and as a "big name" holster maker, may have some insight.

Beautiful work, and fantastic edges!

I'm glad to see someone closer able to jump on this opportunity, Tim. I don't know anyone down in those parts, and there's just no way I could make the trip. Good luck on the sale. M

Congratulations!!!! Now for the midnight, 2 am, and 4 am feedings, and the 1 am, and 3 am diapers! Just think of how much carving time you'll have between the scheduled duties!

yes, palletising and shipping will be expensive, but....It's about 650 miles, or 10 hrs - one way. I can't make that trip in the near future. Perhaps someone closer can score on this deal. Thank you for your prompt response.

since there's' already a legitimate answer....... ....because it'd look just plain silly to put a sheep on horseback.

Will have to have it shipped, but I'm interested- Very interested. This might take the place of the machine I was planning on buying! Can you check on shipping charges to Mobile, Al? Also, what is your preferred method of payment?

If you have access to the real thing, can you use it to make a pattern? If not, here's a good excuse to get one...as a business expense!

Read the edging tutorial by Bob Park. I modified my method to closely resemble his and it's made a difference.

I don't have an Aero, but from general experience with my little machines, and from reading on here..... It sounds like the timing is off, or that the hook isn't close enough to the needle. Possibly that the needle is in backwards. My reason for this is that you describe " even a little tension" causing a skip. The hook has to pass close enought to, even graze, the needle to pick up the thread. If there's too much gap, the hook passes harmlessly over the thread on the needle, missing it, and there's nothing to wrap around the bobbin thread. Do check to see if the needle is in backwards, because it would mean that the thread is in the wrong place. If everything is moving as it should, it sounds like the valves are all working correctly. I'm sure Art or Barra (or sewmun, wizcrafts, CobraSteve, and many others) will chime in, and they might can give you a more specific answer.

The tannage of the leather has a tremendous effect on the stiffness of the leather. I've had some thin veg tan that was very stiff, and some 9oz veg that was soft as butter. I currently have a double shoulder with a very soft temper that's destined for a bag. On the same trip to Tandy, I bought some 7oz for holsters that just about has to be wet to bend. Again, all in the tannage. There's also some leathers - bridle, latigo, etc...- that are hot stuffed at the tannery. That means that waxes, and oils...aka tallows....have been put in the leather. That causes it to be soft. Stoned oil tanned leather is soft because the fibers are permeated with oils and other conditioners and remain soft and flexible. The garment leather is probably chrome tanned, which is different treatment entirely.

That appears to be a knock off of a Crossbread Holster's "SuperTuck", and as a knock off, I can't tell you what kind of leather is used in it. If it's all totally soft, it's probably chrome tanned and will need no additional finish applied to the leather- it's done. However.....the chrome tanning process can (usually does) make the leather rather unfriendly to the gun's finish. I suppose if it's one of the new 'super' finishes there might be no damage, but for the cost of a gun.....you wanna take the chance? Another good indicator that it's a knock off is that the back side of the leather has exposed T-nuts. I wouldn't worry about the leather to skin nearly so much as I would worry about those T-nuts rubbing holes through clothing and skin. They will, at the very least, make some awfully sore spots. If you really want that type holster, I suggest getting your money back on the one pictured and ordering a REAL CBH supertuck.....maybe even contact the owner of CBH and let him know about the knock off.

While you can find some great deals on Ebay, craigslist, et al., I think you would do better (and perhaps cheaper in the long run) checking out our supplier's page. Not everyone is listed, but most of the major ones are. One name that comes to mind is Barry King, but be forewarned- be prepared to drop serious moola for the tools. IIRC, they start at about $25-$30 per tool; of course, they are top quality. My suggestion is to get a "basic 7" set, or some other 'beginner's set' and learn to make the most of the tools. After all, one does not need a "Snap-On Master Mechanic's Set [of tools]" to change the oil in the car. Another thing to consider is that they are just tools, and while they should be cared for, they are certainly subject to modification. One of the greats, Peter Main, openly states that he modifies just about every tool he has. That's why I say learn to use what you have to its fullest potential . Also, it's easier (to me) to put a $4 tool on the belt sander than one that cost $30. One of the things to look for in the tools is the chrome plating, or lack thereof. I stopped getting Tandy tools a while back because nothing was consistent, and the chroming was poor at best. The corners, inside and outside, were rounded instead of crisp. They may have changed that, but I'm not sure. Most of the really top grade stamps are made from carbon steel (which can rust if neglected) or stainless steel. Lesser stamps are made from an inferior metal and plated. As far as identifying the tools, just about every tool maker has their name either etched, printed, or stamped on the tool's shaft.

I picked up a gold leaf "kit" from Hobby Lobby that includes the leaf and a pen with adhesive in it. It has a pretty hard felt tip that can be sharpened for precise application. For cleaning, I just wiped down the leather with deglazer. I've had better success putting the gold leaf in inverted letters than just on the surface.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net, best site on the whole WWW! Without making any suggestions, here's a couple of things to consider: A "treadle machine" simply means that it's powered by a foot pedal driving the machine instead of a motor. That means that almost any machine that runs on a motor could run on a treadle- that is, if you've got the leg to do it. Going through thick leather would certainly be a challenge, so I suggest a hefty balance wheel to go with it. There are a couple of Singer 29-x models that have come up on Ebay, and several were treadle machines. The 29 isn't really a heavy duty stitcher, as it's designed for work more along the lines of repairs and patching. Also, most machines can be run without electricity- you just won't want to. The Boss is designed as a manual machine and the lever gives the user the leverage needed to do the job. I can't really see hand turning a small pully through thick leather as feasible. If you get one with a BIG balance wheel, you could do it, but then again....why? Regarding the Boss, there have been a slew of disparaging remarks and a few good ones about Tippmann's decision to go with a cast aluminum frame instead of the cast iron. You can read about that topic in the sewing machine forum. There is also the (undermentioned, IMO) Luberto's Classic Cub (6 & 9 inch throat versions). It is a needlefeed/jumpfoot machine and is manual. Here is a link to one of the discussions about it: click me . See post #4 for the response I got from Luberto's. I'm still looking for a machine too, and I've just about settled on the Cub 6 inch version. I might get the 9, but I'm not sure yet. I like the size and portability of it, the fact that it's cast iron, and made here in the USA. The thing for me is: I absolutely LOVE to tinker, and I have a machinist at my disposal, a full machine shop to play with........care to guess what I'm planning?

Nice and clean! I do have a bit of concern with the knife being in the same holster, though. For any pocket holsters, I try to emphasize that the only thing in the pocket with the gun is the holster...nothing else. It may seem a bit overcautious, but I'm determined to do all I can to avoid a negligent discharge.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net. For your ABSOLUTE essential tools - for stitching- , you need a stitch marker, an Awl (or something to make holes with), and some needles and thread. I'll presume that you have cutting implements such as razor blades, knives, and scissors. If you've never hand stitched leather, Al Stohlman's "Hand Sewing Leather" and a few more hours reading here will do you good. There are a few threads of this type in this section, and they address most of the other 'essential' tools for different types of work.

Ray, I think a separate electric bobbin winder would be wildly out of place in your shop. With all the old machines you have, you should instead invest in a treadle model, which would more closely match the decor.

I currently have two of the Osborne awls from Tandy. One broke because I was stabbing down through the leather into a hard cutting board- lesson: get one of the 'poundo' boards or some other really good mat for the awl to stab into if you don't have a stitching pony/horse. When it broke, I realized that it was the perfect opportunity. I pulled the back of the blade out of the haft, then epoxied the front portion back in. Then I (slowly) re-profiled the awl blade. Now I have a second awl that is more the size of a English bridal awl- it makes nice diamond holes....only they're little for when I want to use some 69 thread....like on a wallet. So don't presume that your tool is toast just because it breaks. After all, even if the blade is no good, the Osborne awls have that really nifty radius turned on the handle. Guess what makes a great hand burnisher when you have thick leather? Oh, and definitely do the little trick where you make a flat spot on the side of the awl. It gives a good thumb rest, allows for consistent orientation, and reduces the number of "rolled off the bench and stuck in my foot" episodes.

You need...well, a leather rounder. They have a series of progressively smaller holes that the leather is drawn through.