TwinOaks
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Posts posted by TwinOaks
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....bras, corsets, boustiers.....
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Look for something called "Chap Leather". It's available in various weights, so measure the thickness of what you're repairing and convert to 64ths of an inch......i.e. 4/64ths=2/32=1/16th" = 4oz. That correlates to the leather thickness you need for the repair.
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I think that any type of clothing would be best in chrome tanned, and you can add pieces or patches of tooled leather as needed. The CT won't harden or wet form like VT will, and the Ct is commonly drum dyed and struck through......in a nut shell, it wears better.
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Hello to all, and especially our new members. The Chat Room is alive and doing well, but there is something that needs to be addressed: While in the chat room, I and the regulars in there, have noticed a large number of members that 'enter' the chat room but never 'chat'. After a pre-set time period, they're 'auto-logged-out'. This has led to the discussion of WHY this happens. Johanna or some of the other Mod staff may be able to shed some light on this as a browser issue, but in the mean time....If you click on "Chat", and nothing seems to happen, please check for other windows on your computer. It seems that once or twice (different computers) clicking to enter the chat room not only opened a new tab, but a new window altogether. It's my supposition that for many of our new members, clicking chat opens a window behind the one you're actively viewing. This is supported by the sheer number of enter/no comment users that go through there. So, if you have clicked to enter Chat, but nothing happens, please take a second look on your desktop for a second tab or window. It may be forum settings, it may be browser, or even device settings (if you're using a tablet/phone/portable device). If you are getting in alright, but just don't want to talk....that's okay too - we have thick skin, wicked senses of humor, and aren't all that bothered by it. However, the CR is a handy way to get a fast response to questions, and most of us that frequent Chat are either long time members or at least well versed in this craft/trade. Stop on in, and join the
madnessconversation.Hope to see y'all in there,
Mike
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***Merged the two topics into one so all the comments are in the same place****
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Welcome to the best site on the internet!
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OH, and keep in mind that the distance from edges and the number of stitches per inch must be considered. Larger thread requires a larger needle, and a larger needle requires a longer stitch length to avoid weakening the leather with holes too close together.
Larger needles also need a little more room from the edge to prevent edge swelling at each stitch. I've personally ruined a few projects before figuring this out.
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I think that after 18 months, the OP has probably found a solution.......please note the date of most of the posts....summer of 2013.
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additionally, check everywhere that the top thread goes for burrs; the complete thread path from spool, through the guides and tensioners, the needle (I thought 138 used a #23 needle, btw), the foot, the hook, the bobbin case (where it wraps around), and the hole in the needle plate. The machine I have had a slight gouge on the side of the needle plate from where the needle was deflected and hit it. Yes, that was enough to damage the thread. Use a q-tip/cotton swab and lightly rub across all the surfaces, if there's a burr, it should find it. If you have any rough areas in the paint, dress those too. If you find a burr/rough patch, you can lightly file/sand/polish it and that should at least help. Go ahead and plan on opening up the machine to look for burrs, etc. down in the working parts.....and while there, completely clean it. There's more than a few tales of skipped stitches, broken stitches, and NO stitches.....all caused by lint in the shuttle track of some machines.
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The above true to an extent, but like any trade/craft, tools disigned for leather work typically perform better than standard tools . The "$90 rounded edge version" is called a Head Knife or a Round Knife (depending on the sweep of the blade), and is one of the more indespensable tools. It is far more versatile than a standard utility knife, but there is a learning curve....no pun intended. Once you learn how to use one you'll see the difference. It's used for cutting straight lines, cutting curves, skiving, matching edges, et. al. The utitliy of the head knife comes from having more cutting edge in the leather than a straight blade, and being able to vary how much blade is in the leather. Does this mean you have to get 'leather working tools'? No. As mentioned above, many standard tools can be used....just be aware of the limitations. Another good example of this is an awl - a round point 'scratch awl' is not suitable for leather working. It will make holes, but not the type you should use. You'll do far better with a "diamond awl" which refers to the cross sectional shape of the blade. Not to knock harbor freight, but don't go to them for leather punches. The ones they sell are poor quality and require a lot of work to make useable - such as stoning an even edge, then reprofiling the shoulder so that it can get though the leather. Look at other craft supply stores, too.....I get waxed linen cord for sewing at Hobby Lobby (they also sell a 'basic 7' set of tools).
You can also make your own tools (many of us do) from bolts, rods, flat stock metal, kitchen flat ware, pieces of wood left over from other projects.... You'll need some hand tools and sanding/polishing ability, but most basic tools are pretty easy to make.
THIS SITE is probably the best tool you can get while starting out. It is the single largest compendium of leather knowledge on the planet, and the majority of the members are happy to help you learn.
There is currently a "monthly challenge" thread going on, in which we use a prepared pattern (shapes, cut lines, and instructions) to build something. This month, it's a wallet...next month is still undecided. These 'challenges' are open to everyone, from beginner to advanced and may be a great opportunity to learn things like basic design layout, tolerances, and construction methods
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You might check under "Shoe Finishing Machine"....Landis makes several versions- http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ssc=1&_nkw=Landis+shoe+repair+machine
Or, if that's not what you're after, maybe look for 'shoe finishing supplies' , 'cobbler's supplies', etc., and just mount one of the polising/buffing wheels to a grinder
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Have you tried contacting the maker/seller and asking where they got the cord ends? That might prove effective.
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Here's a generic pic I borrowed to show the only high ride holster style I've made with a balance point above 'center of belt'.....
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Keep in mind the age and use of the machine....I forgot who said it, but there was some advice on here that said [paraphrased]'you can make a machine sew heavier than it was designed for....but it just won't do it as well, or as long.'
Regardless, you got what appears to be a great deal on a good machine, and I hope you'll see years of use out of it.
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I don't use suede because the majority of it is chrome tanned ( not counting sanded splits). If it isCT, and the leather gets wet while the gun is holstered, it can lead to basically washing the gun with chromium salts.....helloooooooo refinising job. For something like the later generation guns like Glock, Smith M&P, HK, Walther, Sig.....blahblahblah.....the finish is designed to be extremely corrosion resistant. This may help mitigate the effects but on a blued steel gun, it's flirting with disaster.
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The new one probably has blunted teeth because somebody scratched themself and threatened to sue because the tool was too sharp, resulting in a redesign of the tool making it less dangerous.
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IIRC, 138 is about as large as you'll want to go, and you'll be pretty limited on belts to 1/4" or less under the foot. It should handle the chap work just fine, but may have problems if the spur straps are too thick.
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Welcome to the best site on the internet!
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try clicking 'posted image'....I'm showing it as a link, but I'm on an abysmal ISP right now, so there's now way I can download a large file.
The links may not be showing due to an upgrade in the forum software and the size of the posted images (digital size, not image measurements). Perhaps some of the more tech savvy members of the team can offer some input?
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You can use resolene over the Eco-flo, but it WILL pick up the color.....unless you spray it on with a fine atomizer like an airbrush. For what you're describing, I'd suggest the "Pro-water stain" products. They are a pigmented waxy base and once dry are pretty water resistant and colorfast. They still need to be sealed, but are much better than the standard Eco-flo colors. They also have almost no odor, so can be applied inside - just use a damp sponge, and wear gloves of some sort to avoid colored fingers.
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I'd say the type of leather is more of an issue here. That looks to be a type of chrome tanned leather, and due to it's soft, resilient temper, the marks just aren't going to be super evidient
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I recently made a holster for one of those, and had to get the bluegun ....If you need it, I can put together a 'base' pattern for the shell around the gun. After that, it's just adding attachment points. Shall I make one up?
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You've got the pictures right there....it's two pieces with a fabric liner stuck to the back panel. The front panel has the window slots cut in it, and a snap set in each corner.
Designing A New Iwb ... Need Hardware Advice.
in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
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What Matt said.... that's about all it takes. However, if you'd like, I can go pick some up and sell them to you as "spacer kits"
You can change up the type of head that the screw has to get differing degrees of Tacti-cool. A standard phillips head works fine, but if the customers are expecting "security bit torx head" screws....well, I don't think many of the local hardware stores carry those.