TwinOaks

I've never had much issue with holsters closing up after the draw, and I don't use steel linings. What I've found is that in most cases, people who are experiencing holster collapse are doing it to themselves. After learning to make holsters, and using my prototypes as well as having some local LEOs test them, I started noticing a trend. People with cheap belts often had more holster closure than I did. So, I experimented. I went to a single layer belt and sure enough, I had to cinch it tighter to support the weapon. I tried wearing my rig with pants that were the right size for me (instead of a size larger)...yep, the holster closed up. I went back to my 'one-size-too-large' pants, and a double layer belt, and all of a sudden, all the problems went away. So, when I make make a holster, I try to sell the customer on a double layer, bonded and stitched "gun belt", citing the better support. I also tell them to either buy large, or lose weight. As long as there is room for the holster inside the waistband, and there is sufficient support....I've found that just a simple leather reinforcement is adequate to keep the holster open. ...and I just realized I never said what I was carrying - The first holsters I noticed this with were for a gov't model 1911 - steel frame. Then I swapped over to a compact M&P. Even with the wider slide/body of the compact, as long as I was properly supporting the rig and left room for it in my clothes....no issues.

As long as you're going to be milling everything, I would suggest starting with thicker stock and including a boss to attach to the standard stamp handles (the kind that come with letter sets). Other than that, if you're wanting to make larger stamps, it would be a simple-ish task of setting up your vectoring program to cut out the negative space leaving the parts you want embossed on the leather. Stamps like this would almost certainly require a press of some sort to use, so keep in mind the types of pressures that presses and mini-presses (like an arbor press) can exert, and build the stamps with enough material thickness to withstand multiple uses.

There is a plethora of Master level leatherworkers, and some of the names you might recognize are Peter Main, Bob Beard, Barry King, Chan Greer.....waaaay too many to try and list. To get an easy to find list, look up the winners at the Sheridan Show...and the Al Stohlman award winners. However, when you mention wanting to learn from them, that is certainly possible. In today's world, the notion of a live-in apprentice is a bit behind the times. Since the implementation of 'distance learning', whether by DVD, blog, live web seminars, etc., being in a Master's studio has become unecessary. You can easily order a class on electronic media and view it multiple times, and at your own pace. If just really WANT to have 'live' instruction, there are always the classes at the major shows. You'll need to book them pretty far in advance, and take into consideration travel and lodging. One of our members here, "immiketoo", has started offering live webinars with several of the top name Masters, as well as covering procedural issues like edges, sewing machines, etc. This month's class will be with Chan Greer, explaining Sheridan style carving. Here's a link to it: https://attendee.gototraining.com/r/573893754676958466 As you're building your skill, you could also check out the virtual classes on Tandy's website, though I think you have to be a member of their site to view them. And let us not forget that you ARE on Leatherworker.net....single largest online compendium of leather working knowledge. You might be pleasantly surprised to find that more than a few of the Master level crafters are members HERE.

I think the easiest way to do it is to add a panel to the back of the holster. You simply don't sew some select areas and those form the entrance/exit of the belt loop. By sewing in another panel and having a very small area for the belt to pass through, you can avoid some of the 'floppiness' that long tunnel loops can have.

That kind of gusset, where turning the bag inside out wouldn't help.....it just screams "Patcher machine". The only thing is getting a patcher to handle the larger thread like that. ** For reference, the patch machines (Singer 29, et al.) have a narrow arm and the feeding foot can swivel/sew 360 degrees, without moving the material. They typically have very small bobbins, too.

The 618 has more clearance and the ability to use larger thread. If you'll ONLY use it for banners, then either should do just fine, but the issue is going to be just how much material you need to get under the foot. If it was up to me, I'd bite the bullet and get more machine to start with.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! For making rolled edges, there is a topic in the "how do I do that" section called "KK tutorial". Kevin King graciously made a picto-tutorial showing how he makes his wallets- including a french edge. In the 7th - 9th sets of pics you can see how he sews down the binding leather to the exterior, wraps it to the inside and secures with seam tape, then sews it into place and trims the excess. For sewing the leather yourself, the walking foot machine is going to be your best friend....but you may need to slow it down**. There is detailed information on this in the sewing machine section, but in a nutshell, you will need at least a speed reduction pulley. There's also additional options like servo motors, which will slow the machine down while maitaining the torque needed to get through the leather **if you have years of sewing experience, then you may NOT need to slow it down. It's just a common thing done to help with control and power** ETA: here is another KK tutorial on wallets

I'm inclined to agree with Dwight's assessment of it being condensation. Moisture gets places that it just CAN'T get to if it was only soaking through. If you find that you still get moisture wicking through all layers of leather (as summer gets warmer) you could always insert a piece of Tyvek between the layers as you build.

Very nice work!

looks like a groover, but with a sharpened edge. Maybe a cobbler's tool for cutting in a stitch line for a sole welt.

best I can think of is either a flesher - tool used for pulling subcutaneous fat from hides when making rawhide or a rougher to prepare leather for glueing. possibly a cobbler's tool

It hasn't been fun, good, or any such semblance, but it's almost done. I'm back...limited for now, but I'm back. The support of this leatherworking family has been inspiring, and I'm looking forward to more time spent on leather.

considering that it's over two years old, I think this one is probably gone.

It sounds like you have some discrepancies with your stitch line layout and placement. A general rule for layout is 1/2 the thickness of the item + the thickness of leather. That WILL depend on the hide's firmness, how well it takes water, and how long you let it rest after being soaked.....I suggest between 5 and 10 minutes to let the water fully soak all the fibers. Once you start molding, you can " prestretch" areas by pushing your mallet handle down into the holster very much like making a pilot hole. On the molding.....your gun should be wrapped in a few layers of saran wrap, or in a ziploc type bag when you mold. The leather is likely to shrink just a little, and the few thousandths of space created by the plastic wrap is usually enough extra space so that it doesn't shrink too much when drying. Also critical is the amount of molding detail you're after. There is such a thing as " too much detail ". This thread, although for a different style pistol, is worth reading as it covers several remedies: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34363&hl=+holster,%20+rail#entry213048

The lighter dye may also be a product of molding first. When you mold the leather, you are stretching some of the fibers, and compressing others. Either action will effect how the fibers take the dye.

The LS1 is a sail making/repair machine. It's feeding mechanism has been known to leave pretty aggressive tracks in the leather, and most of the members here who've had one.....sold it. If you can add another $200 to your budget, you could go through Toledo Industrial Machines (Bob Kovar) and get the Chandler walking foot machine, which is a clone of the Consew 205/206, complete with motor and table. That is a unison feed machine and has sufficient capacity under the foot for most of what you are wanting to sew. http://www.tolindsew...dler-406rb.html If you'll be doing a large amount of bag work, you might want to consider going with a cylinder arm machine (Consew 277 or clone; or one of the Juki clones...Cobra/Cowboy) instead of a flatbed. It would allow you to work on things like gussetts more easily, and to be able to add a bottom to the bag by feeding the bag over the cylinder. Hedley Pepper has some videos on YouTube that show her doing exactly that. You can search the YT, or just go to Steve's site and follow the links from there. If this is your first leather sewing machine, it's worth MUCH more than the cost of the machine to go through one of the dealers that advertise on this page (ad banners at top), as they set the machines up specifically for leather, and offer fantastic tech support. Bob Kovar/ Toledo Industrial Sew, Steve Tayrien/ Leather Machine Co., and Ronnie (sorry, I forgot your last name!)/ Techsew are all well known for their service after the sale. I understand that this probably isn't what you wanted to hear ...you need to spend more money....but many of us have learned that it's best to get "enough" sewing machine to begin with. If you haven't read it yet, there is a very informative article in the sewing machine forum here that is worth reading.

Once you get past the learning curve, they are VERY useful. But as electrathon said, get a good one to start with. All head knives are NOT created equal. I use mine mostly for longer cuts and skiving, as well as squaring ends. I have several of the little click knives, with the snap off blades, and I use those for detail cuts. The advantage of the head knife really shows when cutting thick pieces of leather, because the arc of the blade puts more edge into the cut. For thinner leather, it just zips through ( if properly sharpened), so some caution must be used to prevent over cutting a line, or running off the leather.

You're most welcome! A note about your steel choice: this is going to be a blade, so you need to use an appropriate steel. One that can be annealed for working, and then hardened and tempered for use. If you just modify an existing tool, be sure to work it "cool" and never let the temperature of your work area get too hot to touch/hold. When I do things like this with a belt sander, I keep a tub of cold water nearby for dunking, and keep a finger close to where I'm modifying. As the temp climbs, you should feel the heat spreading. When it's pretty warm.....bath time.

Here's some close ups so you can see the cuts.

Dremel cut off wheel to make the cut, with the bottom of the arc cut ending at the point the blade begins. That's one side....for the other, light file work to help keep the corner centered in the edger.

I found that the resin used for fiberglass will NOT penetrate into and therefore bind to the leather. It's just too thick. It will adhere to the surface, but after a very little flexing, it's clear that they aren't compatible. Now....casting resins are another story altogether. I don't think they won't bond to the leather, for the same reasons, but they should withstand pressure well. I'm not real sure about impacts...but the epoxy resins should take more than enough pressure for this.

Suede is typically analine tanned, and is struck (drum dyed) during the process. There are some specific dyes for suede, but on most of my dyes, I've seen the little warning " not for use on suede leathers".

Kudos to you for innovation and making your own tools! One thing to consider is that the scalpel blade may be TOO sharp, an you could inadvertantly slice through the leather, so be attentive to your downward pressure. Other than that, I'll yield to Shtoink's experience.

The idea of hardening the leather like that is pretty much the same for most types of wet forming, so there's definitely some precedence behind it. And Les' comment got me to thinking....I find it likely that leather was used for this because of the lack of availibility of fast setting resins casting like we can get today. The one thing that leather shops DID have handy was scrap leather, so it became the medium of choice. Nice find on the technique! I might be time to go visit the modelling section of Hobby Lobby.....