TwinOaks
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Posts posted by TwinOaks
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Camano, you stop short of the buckle end, is the billet end doubled layered? if so, no need for skiving?
The part that goes through the buckle is single layered. If you wanted to, you could skive both belt and liner so it looks good, but really, once it's folded, it's hard to notice that there's no liner...just slick it down and seal it.
Trying to bend the doubled belt through the buckle results in having 3 thickness of the belt right in front....and if you're working with 1/4" layers.....ouch.
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Remember to NOT bevel the edges of the flesh side where the two halves will meet.
Cut the liner a shade larger than the front, then trim it to match the front.
Glue all the way to the edge.
Get your edges straight before marking a stitch line.
Do everything to the front that you'll be doing before assembly...except punching holes.
Don't sew while wet- if you're too close to the edge it can cause little bumps on the edge where the leather has deformed around the needle.
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To my many friends,
I'm in what looks to be a bad place right now, so until sometime in the future I will not be available.
Have fun with your leather and continue to push yourselves to improve.
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If you're not going to come back to the starting point, then you need to lock in the start of the stitch line. If you are going to come back to it, like sewing all the way around something, then you can just hold the first stitches and run back over them when you get back to it.
And yes, once you trim the threads, you can melt the ends. i've done it enough ( and I work with my hands so I have callouses anyway) thwt I don't feel any burn....I melt the ends until they get almost back to the hole and mash them down. As they're still mloten, they just press down into the other thread.
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It sounds like you need a little more practice with your machine. The threads should be held ( for tension) for the first couple of stitches. Are you doing that?
As far as when to hand sew? When I have a small area that's difficult for a machine, or would require changing threads and readjusting the machine for just one thing. This is also one of the reasons most shops have multiple machines.
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It looks like they're relying on the glue between the edges to hold the thread....yes, that simple, unless your illustration is over simplified and doesn't show several back stitches....it should work, in theory.
In reality, I lock the stitches in with at least two, usually 3 backstitches. The way the backstitches work is that the needle makes a hole big enough for four tightly packed threads ( two sides of a loop, on both top and bottom threads). Backstitching crams an additional 4 diameters in the same space, jamming the threads against each other and the constraints of the hole's diameter.
I also regularly saddle stitch the backstitching, adding a half stitch, so I can have both threads on the same side when it's done.
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That's just running the threads out between two layers, pulling tight, and clipping them close. It's also done with lacing. It works best if you don't finish the edges before sewing.
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The tippmann machine is worth it's weight in gold for a novice. Each stitch goes exactly where you put it. It will handle up to 3/4, and has a variety of feet available. Many of us (myself included) use one of these, as it does everything we need it to.
HOWEVER, there is a point about it tht you need to be aware of: it's 100% manual. This can be a good thing if you're hauling it to shows or stables to do repairs, but it's a drawback if you are looking to do production work with any sense of speed. A 36" double layered and stitched belt requires at least one Advil or Tylenol.
If you're just starting out, it should serve you just fine. If you know what you're doing with a sewing machine.... Buy the whole shop that's for sale, use the Boss or re-sell the tippmann (there's always someone wanting one), and purchase a big machine.
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Very sorry to hear of your loss, but glad to hear that you and your husband survived this. It could have been so much worse, and "things" can be replaced. I can understand that there were many memories there, and wish you the best in rebuilding your home to match you memories.
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For HOLSTERS:
All of my sales are face to face, and I explain their warranty to them, offer to answer questions, etc. I'm also selective of my customers. I sell through my buddy's gun store and only people we know and have proven themselves competent are "qualified" as holster customers. I know it seems a bit snobbish, but it's allowed me to operate with minimal overhead.
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Y'all need to do some reading in this topic:http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239
Of the machines you listed, the 227 is the best choice. It has more availability of accessories and parts.
However, instead of going through the process of basically building the machine I reccomend getting a machine thwt's ready to go, has a warranty, and has tech support. At the top of the page we have ad banners, and among them are several sewing machine dealers. These dealers KNOW the machines, inside and out, and have earned their reputations here. They also set the machines up specifically for leather...which is something YOU will have to learn to do if you get a used machine.
So, my recommendation for lightweight bags is either the CB227r from Toledo (Bob Kovar), or the Techsew 2700 (Ronnie). If you need a heavy stitcher, check out the Cobra class 4 or the CB4500. You can go to the websites and see the capapilities of each of these machines.
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Most of the folks thwt make the stamps have examples listed on their sites. Do a google search for 'leather maker's stamp', and start browsing. You can also do a search on this site, which will give you a good starting list of stamp makers we've used.
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Nice work, and my suggestion is to modify your patent. Your patent probably won't be granted as a 'process', simply because it isn't new or unique. An inside out tube, even in leather, has been around for quite a while. I'm not saying this to discourage you, but try to save you money and time on a patent application.....not to mention the fact that there will be knock offs on the market within 1week of your public release of the products.
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I agree with Andrew....but...there's always pyrography on chrome tan.
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Then it may be because i'm on a tablet? I sometimes don't get to see all of a web page on this thing....in any case, it's good to hear that he's selling so many that he ran out.
ETA...yep, I just checked and it says "limited page ......for full page use pc or mac"
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It looks like Tim is moving his site. Try here: http://tanglefoottra...ife-sales-page.
The site works, but I DON'T see the knife for sale there.
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The pattern of the stitch, whether straight or angled, is determined by the type of needle used. Some needles will make a straight stitch, others will make an angled one. I sew with a 'Boss', and have two common needles available: 'S', and 'LR'.
As posted above, sometimes a smaller thread is used on the bottom to facilitate more thread in the bobbin...but there's another reason. The needle size dictates the maximum size of the thread, as the needle hole will be filled by 4 thicknesses of the thread....two sides of a loop, from the top, AND from the bottom. If the maker wants close stitching (a high number of SPI), then there is a limit to how closely the larger needle holes can be to each other before it perforates the leather. By using a smaller bobbin thread, a smaller needle can be used....which allows the stitches to be closer together.
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You'll have the easiest time with chrome tanned leather....call Springfield Leather ( see ad banners) and tell them what you want to do.
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Since this is now becoming a tutorial, It will be pinned. If you look for it in the forum section, look at the top of the forum -that's where the pinned topics go.
John, thank you for taking the time to post the pics of your progress. There will be a LOT of members benefitting from this.
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I used resolene on a leatherman case that was EDC for a little over 4 years...subjected to an electrician's life, and frequent battering in an aerial bucket, as well as other knocks and bangs....
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Reading these posts and thinking one them has led me to another piece of advice...
Turn back now, before the addiction sets in!
Never mind, it's too late.
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You could probably design it so that it WOULD break, but a simple tapered transition should handle all the stress you'd ever put on it.
And if you're swinging hard enough to break a 1 inch thick acetal rod ( presuming your handle thickness), you're probably going to drive the tool through the leather and fracture your carving block. It's very tough stuff...
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The only thing I would call a 'trick' is knowing your own abilities. Work within your skill level, and as you work with the tools, your skill level will increase. If the curve is too tight for the blade you're using, cut it in several passes, using only the tip. There's no rule saying that you have to complete a cut in one pass.
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You may find the blade to be too thin. I tried some of the curved blades like that for exacto knives and they had a little too much lateral play for clean lines. However, the thin blade is not a problem when it's properly supported. For most of my cuts, even curves, I use a little olfa knife...the type that you can snap off the end to expose a fresh tip.
Mechanics Belt Prong Help
in Hardware and Accessories
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It isn't exactly like what you posted, but ZW has some...http://www.zackwhite.com/2-Prong-Mechanics-belt-buckle-insert_p_4864.html