Red Bear Haraldsson

Doctor Jackson's Hide rejuvenator https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/dr-jackson-s-hide-rejuvenator

Ooh, isn't she terribly pretty? I love the design on the body, how was it done? Groover or just a swivel knife? Well done indeed!

I think it is a cool idea, but I am still in the process of stealing your idea for the lined skirt holster and the t-nuts... Ideas ideas ideas, must be time to make something....

Words cannot express the amount of jealousy I have. I am just M&M green over here. That is truly marvelous work. I love the slots in the bottom to hold the holster against the skirt. Once again, you have created a beautiful piece of work for me to aspire to.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=lift+the+dot+black+oxide Northwest Tarp and Canvas sells them in varying sets through Amazon. I have not ordered them yet, though, so I do not know how their service is.

Probably something rather simple, back side of the body folded over like this... Great movie though!

I knew there were other things I wanted to add in the initial post. The cardboard is longer than the belt and table both (The kydex I bought for my gun case came in it, BIG sheet). Slicer is the next best thing to sterile, wife is a good bit OCD when it comes to the kitchen's cleanliness. We haven't bought block cheese in over a decade, so I do not even need to replace it. I think the 'dot' problem will go away once I get more dye, as it sits now, the roller on the slicer is not completely submerged. I may cut the dye down to 1:2 so I can pull slower and have the dye deeper in the pan. Cheers!

Trying dip-dyeing with the tools I have on hand. I practised with water first and had the wife hold the tray of water and the cheese cutter while I pulled the leather through the 'bath.' My tools (such as they are): First pass, first belt, grain side: Wasn't sure what I had gotten on the belt after seeing the strange 'dots' on the leather, decided to flip the next belt face down and see what happened. First pass, second belt, grain side: Strange dots are now on the flesh side, so it must be some sort of bubble when dragging the belt under the slicer. The darker patch on this belt is from me letting go of the belt to grab the next couple of feet. For those of us that dip dye... I like the cheese slicer idea because it is wide enough that I can do a 3" wide belt with no worries. The odd dots come from running the belt under the roller and I can control that by flipping it grain side down. The darker spot I can stop my pulling the belt in one long, steady pass. I practised with water first just for these reasons and to show my wife how I needed her help so we didn't pour dye all over the carpet. So... What am I missing, anything? Anyone have a better idea for long belts? I'm having to do this in a shallow food dish because funds are rather limited and I have 8oz worth of dye mix (4oz bottle of Fiebings that will be mixed 50/50 with isopropyl alcohol). And, my workbench is my coffee table. Cheers! Red Bear Haraldsson

Oooooohh! That would work just marvelously. I haven't done Papier-mâché since I was five years old. That's going to be a fun project. Hey, is this the place? http://booksiconica.co.uk/gallery/

I like Electrathon's idea, I thought the same thing and wondered if I could do it out of the upholstery leather I have. I think white glue (PVA or school) would take forever to set, but barge cement could be an option, maybe?

OOoohh!! Thanks Tinker! I didn't know anyone made blind-head Chicago Screws. <Insert gleefully maniacal laughter here>

Awesome! I don't really want the glossy look for the things I am currently working on.

Straight oxblood is real purple-y to me. Maybe a drop or three in the burgundy will get you closer?

I got mine from Jeff Mosby at Grey Ghost Graphics. All delrin, I set mine with an arbor press. http://www.greyghostgraphics.com/stamps.html I dampen the leather, slide it into the arbor press, and then lean my Chef Boyardee on it until I see water squeeze up from it. No complaints. I wouldn't have called JLS old, but since he is going to date himself...

Eventually, I want to make an Avenger Holster for my Uberti Cattleman. Nice to finally SEE you Red Cent!

Whoops, forgot to ask... Anything other than friction holding your hammer strap? I see the holes, but none of the pictures show that side of the holster once it is all assembled.

I have a friend that paints miniatures for tabletop wargames. He is a phenomenal painter. He ranks his paint jobs on how much I cuss when he shows his latest work to me. Josh, what you have there is a Yosemite Sam nuclear diatribe of foul language that I am hollering. I'm making sailors blush over here. That is mighty fine work, just gorgeous. There isn't any part of that thing that I do not like. I'm already stealing design elements (the T-nuts forming the bottom of the belt loop). I think that would fix the problem in my head with my crossdraw design. Really, just a phenomenal beauty of a holster. Well done, well done, indeed!

He did here, because the holster (in those figures) is held to the skirt with the strap mount, not the Mexican Loop. He switches back and forth between holsters throughout the directions depending on what he wants to show. I may do that version instead of the Mexican Loop... less fiddly-bits.

Figure 32, page 12 Jim stops the lining just above the loop, as seen in the picture. He says it is more trouble than it is worth to line the skirt all the way down. Josh, Jim, and JLS (and more than a dozen others here...) are all painting masterpieces. I'm still coloring with crayons. I want to do a lined Mexican Loop holster, but I'm going to stop my lining where Jim stopped his. The loop still give me troubles with just one layer. If I were to go all the way down the skirt, I would probably cut a window in the lining to encompass both loops and skive in around the inner edge so the loops themselves are one layer, but the skirt still is beefy. But, if you are just doing the skirt as a belt loop, like you said, I don't see any reason not to line it all the way down either. Show us what you come up with!

http://leatherworker.net/SimmonsHolster.pdf Jim Simmons has a pretty good pattern and talks about linings in it. That may help.

Just had an odd thought on this subject... Has anyone tried M&G 50/50 as a resist?

Nice looking work! I want to get a stamp of the US symbol, but make it a good bit obvious that it is a remake. Like a rope border instead of the double lines, or periods between the letters. For anyone interested, I stumbled across the belt hangers the other day, but I have yet to order any from these people... http://www.armynavysales.com/products/5-pack-of-military-belt-hook-hangers/ Congrats again, very nice job!

I cut the belt itself so it overlaps by about an inch in front when I wrap it around where I will wear it (just covering the distance around, not cinched tight). Then I mount the chape/buckle end to the belt and stick in the billet end to the middle hole, the wrap the belt around as snug as I am going to wear it and mark the sewn end of the billet on the belt. Then I lay it back down on the table and move the mark about half an inch back along the belt (making it tighter). Because my skill level for gunbelts at this point is still "You may want that a bit tighter..." I haven't attempted a curved belt yet because I am just a fraidy cat. My Dunlop's disease comes from supper, not breakfast. It is nice to say that I had to punch five new holes moving my pants belt tighter 7 inches from where it was when I started paying attention to what I am eating. My belly still 'done lopped' over my belt, but 275 is much better than 300 was.

That's kind of funny... I always like what you get, too! Will try the dip dye this time and see what cooks up. Thanks!!

Beautiful work as usual, Josh! Couple of questions: What kind of alcohol did you cut the dye with (or does it matter)? M&G stands for Mop & Glo, yes? I'm itching to try that British Tan mix out, I always end up with an orange-y color, but I haven't cut it with anything yet.