Red Bear Haraldsson

Best way that I have found to search the forum is to go to google and put leatherworker.net in the search box with whatever else you are searching for. leatherworker.net AND (xyz) AND (abc)

I cannot keep even a decent burnish on the bullet loops. I bevel the inside edge before I weave it through the backstrap and just leave it after. Once I wet the loop strap and pull it through the backstrap, I destroy any burnishing that I had on the bullet strap.

http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/two-pocket-coin-purse-kit That is the very first thing I made out of leather with my Dad in 1975, when I was 5.

I've made a couple of loading strips for SASS, I dye mine before I weave the wetted strap in and oil/finish them after it all dries well.

Go to google and search 'leatherworker.net' AND 'pattern' AND <whatever kind of pattern you want> Google's search is much better than the site's search engine, just put leatherworker.net in with the bits you are searching for, you'll likely have much better luck that way.

My apologies, /this/ is the link I thought I was posting earlier: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZ1dbwceYrc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rVrvokIAnAw I think this has come up here on the forum, three or four times. Cheers!

https://www.facebook.com/Mini5-Leather-Craft-Life-1561037437442854/ I cannot yet figure out how to order them, but I am at work and not 'supposed' to be on Facebook...

I'm moving to dip-dying. With a dauber anything other than black ends up looking like woodgrain.

That's marvelous I am having the dickens of a time trying to find the tool online though. Electrathon, thanks for the pic, could I con you out of the tool numbers for those bevelers?

For once, I'm batting 1000! Made just one belt for someone else. The buckle he wanted for the belt was the same size his normal buckle was. I made the belt so the middle hole was the same length of the hole he used on his old belt, then I put two holes on either side. Now as to the finish and edging, that was cruddy work to be sure...

Bah, your first questions were things you just needed a pat on the back for. Not that we don't give those out, too, though! I like what you have so far, but here is my chief concern. If she needs to reload, she'll grab one speed loader, what will keep the other in place when that happens? Keep going!! Doing great!! Rah rah!!

Stumbled across this pic for what it is worth... http://www.code3tactical.com/galco-ssl-speed-loader-case.aspx Glad to see you finally asking good questions!!

I need to pick up some Neatsfoot oil myself. I have been using Dr Jackson's hide rejuvenator for my 'oil' step, but for things like bullet loops and stitch lines, it just does not work well.

I must say, Red, that is a gorgeous color. Is it cut with thinner or anything? I have the hardest time getting colors to come out even.

I made one of Jim's belts. Goes from 24" to like 56" or 62" So I can do anything from a kid to a sumo wrassler! But, natch, I do not have people calling me for info on belts either.

This is what I found: http://www.shop.bunkhousetools.com/1858-Army-909.htm I may still be half asleep, but I found the Old Army is based off their 1858 Army. And everything I found on molds of guns pointed me at Bunkhouse Tools. Hope this helps!

Two different tools for different things. Bevelers are for making one side of a cut stand out from the other, pear shaders are for making depressions within the borders of an object. Your work looks just fine to me. Just need a little more practice smoothing the bevel marks out so they do not show the individual tool impressions. It will come in time, especially with how much I see you practice here.

If she liked the one she had first (always a big IF) why not use it as your pattern? I got an Otter Box for mine, but I'm prone to dropping expensive things.

Ooh, I'm copying that for sure!

Brooks125 asked: Does a rawhide insert work well, or will I need to get spring steel or some other insert? I've heard some people use pallet banding, but does that really retain the shape well enough long term? --When does it get formed, Dwight? Biggyns says: As someone with generous dimension in the waist, I can confirm that a IWB holster without reinforcement will collapse at the mouth. --Methinks your urban myth might not be such a big myth. Biggyns again: As far as another option to consider for between the layers of leather at the opening, kydex is one I would look at. It comes in several thicknesses, is easily molded with a heat gun or toaster oven --Again, Dwight, when does it get molded into the holster shape? Dwight, how will you sew it flat with a formed piece of plastic in it? Or, would you sew it flat and THEN form the plastic you just encased in leather? You have no idea what I have made and what I have not, all you have is your opinion of my opinion. You may sew on a machine, I do not. All of the people I have learned from sewed by hand. If I used your logic and counted you among the people I have learned from, I could then say, straight-faced, that only about 10% of people use sewing machines. Do you cinch your belt as tight as I do? As tight as Biggyns does? Biggyns has trouble with his IWB holster folding closed, you appear not to have this trouble. You do not keep your gun in your holster, I do. My carry gun spends about 85% of the time inside its holster, so no, I do not think it any kind of stretch. You put your gun in your holster after you cinch your belt. I put the holster, with the gun in it, on my belt and then cinch it up. Who is right? Who is wrong? Who says? I like you, Dwight, it is my opinion that you give pretty good advice. If your opinion is that my advice is not worth listening to, that's fine, I already have that as a disclaimer in my sidebar. Vaya con Dios, Auf Wiedersehen, Red Bear

Something else to consider with a formed 'insert.' Most common stitch in a holster is the two needle saddle stitch, now just think of the fun involved with fighting the needles in and out of a folded, formed holster. Another thing to consider. Only police get to put their guns back in the holsters, typically when they outnumber the suspect by a significant margin and the suspects are in restraints. As a civilian, if I have to PULL my gun, my heart would likely be pounding out quite a tattoo, if I had to USE my gun, my heartbeat would likely be closer to a red-lined V-8. I'm not likely to drop my readiness level until competent authority relieves me of it. Once it goes from 'my survival' to 'their scene,' that holster is likely to spend quite a few nights empty and alone. But, people buy holsters. And people have ideas as to how things 'should be,' and if they want a holster that stays open, that is what you'll want to be making for them. If you get it figured out, great!!

Here is another idea, sort of a combination... http://www.world-at-war.dk/catalog/images/us_mapcase.jpg It's an M-1938 Map/Dispatch case. I'm going to make one out of leather (soonish, I hope!). I am going to make the pen loops large enough that I do not need to use the clips on the pens themselves, and the 'pen holster' short enough to be able to grab the pens easily. With where the pen holster is sitting, with the top flap closed down, I need not worry on the pens sliding out if the bag gets inverted.

I work in logistics. There are many kinds of pallet banding. From what I have seen over the years: Nylon strapping always wants to stay flat. Steel banding will stay where you put it shape-wise, but you will play merry hell getting into the shape you want in the first place, and you probably won't get any fine detail bends out of it. I know a couple of places sell 'bag stiffeners' to help bags/purses hold their shapes better, but I have never used it. Here is another thought on steel: You'll most likely have to cut it with tin snips, then file the edges down as well. Even then, you'll have to wonder how long your leather will last around the ends of the strapping before it comes poking out through the leather...

Yeah, that is the picture I found, too. I think all the stem area looks wonky, so I'll have my friend clean it up for me (He works in a print shop, always nice), then see if I cannot get it made into a reusable craftaid and get my practicing on!