dq7133

UPDATED STOCK: 1.5" Center Bar Buckle - Matte Nickel - 12 pieces available ($5 each or $4.50/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/1316-1-1-2-nickel-matte-center-bar-buckle-solid-brass-ll/ 1.5" Center Bar Buckle - Antique Brass 1 - 4 pieces available ($4.50 each or $4/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/1316-1-1-2-antique-brass-center-bar-buckle-solid-brass-ll/ 1" Swivel Trigger Snap - Matte Nickel - 44 pieces available ($4 each or $3.50/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/3002a-1-nickel-matte-swivel-trigger-snap-solid-brass-ll/

Clearing out some Buckleguy hardware that I don't need. I've included pricing and links to the specific products below. Shipping not included. I'd love to sell this all to one person, so if you're interested in the whole lot I'll knock off an additional 10%. Thanks! **I'll update the available quantities as they are sold** 26mm Key Ring - Natural Brass - 31 pieces available ($1 each or $0.80/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/b2020-26mm-brass-plated-key-ring-solid-iron/ 1.5" Center Bar Buckle - Matte Nickel - 12 pieces available ($5 each or $4.50/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/1316-1-1-2-nickel-matte-center-bar-buckle-solid-brass-ll/ 1.5" Center Bar Buckle - Antique Brass 1 - 4 pieces available ($4.50 each or $4/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/1316-1-1-2-antique-brass-center-bar-buckle-solid-brass-ll/ 1" D-ring - Natural Brass - 30 pieces available ($0.60 each or $.40/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/dr016-1-natural-brass-d-ring-solid-brass-ll/ 1" Swivel Trigger Snap - Natural Brass - 28 pieces available ($4 each or $3.50/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/3002a-1-natural-brass-swivel-trigger-snap-solid-brass-ll/ 1" Swivel Trigger Snap - Matte Nickel - 44 pieces available ($4 each or $3.50/pc for all) https://www.buckleguy.com/3002a-1-nickel-matte-swivel-trigger-snap-solid-brass-ll/

Thanks Bruce! I took the upper roller adjustment mechanism apart and reshaped the point, which seems to have helped. Elton, the blade does not have an elephant stamp. What I ended up doing was making incremental adjustments to the distance that the blade sits from the rollers, as well as the height of the bottom roller, until everything started working. I can now consistently split heavier (6-10oz) weight leather, but my goal is to be able to split a piece of 3oz leather down to about 1.5oz. I've almost got it, but here's the latest catch: The lighter weight leather starts to split fine, and then it sort of spins around and I'm left with something like the scrap piece below: At first I thought there was an issue with my blade being dull in the center, but it's a new blade and I've sharpened it with 1000 grit and 2000 wet/dry, and stropped with green polishing compound. Also, the splitter doesn't have any issue cutting through heavier weight leather. So...after further inspection, I'm pretty sure that my bottom roller is worn down in the center. It's a little difficult to tell, but if you look closely at the below photo you can see that there is a larger gap between the bottom roller and the blade in the center of the machine, and I think this is what's causing the problems. I guess my next step is to give Harris at Pilgrim a call and see if he has a bottom roller, but before I go that route, I was hoping to get some second opinions. Has anyone ever come across this issue before? It seems a bit odd, but the guy I purchased this from had it hooked up to a motor, so I'm guessing he was using it a lot. Maybe consistently running thick bridle straps through the center caused the bottom roller grooves to wear out over time? Thanks so much for the input! -Haik

Thanks! I ended up getting one from the folks at Campbell-Randall. Edit: Manual posted a couple posts below this one.

Hi! Any luck finding a manual?

Hi Saddlehorn! Were you able to track down a manual? I recently picked up the same machine. Thanks!

Hi Bruce, Thanks for all the advice! I ended up ordering a new blade from Pilgrim and am still tweaking. The new issue I've run into is the indicator knob clicking out of place. For example, if I feed some 9/10oz bridle leather through the clicker at a "3" setting, the blade will sink into the leather and start splitting fine, but then the indicator knob will click to 4, 5, 6, etc... until there is no longer any pressure applied by the top roller and by that point the blade dives out of the leather and I'm left with a partial skive. Is this a spring tension/pressure issue? Thanks!

Thanks everyone! @Big Sioux Saddlery you've got yourself a deal! Haha. The listing was actually just for the Champion (no mention of the Landis), but when I showed up it was sitting on the Champion table and the guy said it came with the sewing machine...Pretty crazy. I just sent the folks at Pilgrim Shoe Machine an email about replacement blades. If anyone with re-profiling experience comes across this post and would be interested in the work, please feel free to reach out, but it sounds like a new blade is the way to go. Thanks again for the advice!

Hi guys, I just picked a Landis splitter and what I believe is a Champion 30 Peerless machine on Craigslist for $100! Seemed too good to be true, but the splitter works pretty well. I haven't had a chance to set up the Champion yet. The one issue I'm having with the splitter is that the knife doesn't seem to be able to cut through the leather at the very end. I'm able to feed the leather through the rollers and it splits all the way until the last few mm and then it catches on the knife and gets stuck. At that point, I either have to cut the leather out by hand or walk it back out the way it came. Is this happening because the knife isn't sharp enough? Thanks for the assist!

@Petro49er I would also add that the quality with Tandy seems to be hit-or-miss, so as @sylvia suggested, you might have to do some experimenting. I don't use snaps often, but the ones I do use were purchased from Tandy about 6 months ago. Both ligne 20 and ligne 24 work fine for me.

@Petro49er Tandy's snaps seem to work.

Hi guys, At the moment I'm using an inexpensive hand branding iron to stamp leather, but it's difficult to guarantee consistent positioning. I know you can buy branding irons designed to fit into a drill chuck, but they're expensive ($300-$600). Does anyone have experience sticking a hand branding iron into a cheap drill stand (http://www.ebay.com/itm/0-6cm-Working-length-Drill-Press-Stand-Work-Station-for-Electric-Handheld-Drill-/252212399269?hash=item3ab907cca5:g:GV0AAOSwfZ1WbnXg) ? Looks like it would work and for $30 I might just buy the stand and give it a shot, but figured I'd ask here incase anyone has tried a similar DIY solution. Thanks!

Sylvia - Thanks for the suggestion! Tony - I placed my order in November. I was able to get the deal by emailing David at (david at goldstartool dot com).

Thanks for the responses. I have attached a few photos of the dies and a photo of the impression left in the leather. RavenAus, these are definitely double-cap rivet dies, but the other dies I've seen are like yours (just metal), so I was a bit surprised when I received these.

Anyone running into issues with the Gold Star rivet dies leaving pressure marks on the leather? The bottom die I received is spring loaded and the top die has a rubber gasket. Both the spring loaded portion on the bottom and the rubber gasket on the top leave impressions on the leather.

Thanks guys! This is all very helpful! I'm looking at a few refurbished Stimpson machines offered by established distributors (including Campbell-Randall) @nstarleather, do you need to apply a lot of foot pressure with the manual Stimpson machine? I'm wondering how fatigued the operator would get if they're working at the machine all day.

Hi all! Does anyone have experience with auto-loading rivet machines? An ebay search for "Rivet machines" turns up quite a few used ones in the $1k-$3k price range, but I would love to hear if anyone can recommend a reputable brand. I'm ideally looking for something that could handle double-cap rivets. Thanks!

I've had similar problems with two-way zippers. The teeth on two-way brass chain have a slightly different shape, so the slider can be installed both ways, but it's not perfect and it ends up catching a lot. We've been experimenting with the following (more expensive) alternatives to standard YKK brass chain. YKK's Excella line YKK's Everbrite line UCAN's G2 line I'm not a big fan of UCAN's standard brass zipper, but we've had success with their high-end G2 line. They manufacture in California, so you avoid the 4-6 week lead time that comes with a large YKK order. They can usually turn around custom cut and die orders in 10 business days.

Thanks guys! Pilgrim Shoe Machine sells new blades.

Just picked up an old American crank skiver (it has the number 244 on top) "as-is" on Ebay and it's missing the blade. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement blade? Thanks!

Anglo Sewing was able to get me quotes. The project I was working on got put on hold, so I didn't end up making a purchase, but if you're used to US prices get ready to pay quite a bit more in the UK.

Hi guys, I have Leather Machine Co's Cobra Strap Cutter, which works great, but I'm looking for a machine that would allow me to cut through an entire hide at once and possibly two hides at the same time. Anyone familiar with an industrial machine that could handle this? It would probably need a working width of around 6 feet. Almost all of the strap cutters I've seen appear to be variations on the Cobra. It looks like the only machine that would be able to handle full hides is something like Gerber's Taurus system, but I figured it was worth asking here. Thanks!

Were you ever able to figure this out? I just ordered a few samples and am hoping to attach to a 5/6 oz leather flap.

Hi guys, I have a buckle that's cast with zinc alloy and plated with brass. Wondering if there are any good rudimentary tests that I could run to see how well the plating will hold up. So far I've scrubbed a section with steel wool and am now soaking the piece in vinegar and the platting is still holding up. Obviously this isn't going to be an exact science, but I'm hoping to get a feel for its longevity. The hardware is going to be used on a bag that will experience some outdoor use (maybe some occasional rain), but nothing too serious. Has anyone had good experience with brass plated hardware? Thanks!

Thanks! I think used machines or alternative brands might be the way to go.