mikesc

Edit window has passed, so ..Yes, the lions and twin castle turrets entrance is / was the official crest of Bielefeld https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bielefeld so the machine was made there, the questions remaining are "by whom ?" and "what is the model and number ?"

I just spoke on the phone with a guy in Belgium who's wife put up a similar machine ( it has much more wear on the hand wheel , so no picture of the factory visible, and the crest with the lions and the castle entrance is not exactly the same ) for sale last year..The crest part on his says "SCHUTZ-MARKE" which he thinks is the name of the company who made it ? I think ( my German is not very good , I lived there, JHQ (Joint Headquarters) Rheindahlen when I was very young in 59 and again in 62, and have forgotten almost all of it, must re-learn it someday )..but I think that "Shutz- marke" means something like " trademark" or "marque déposé" ? Anyway he is going to ask his wife if they still have the machine ( imagine how many machines they must have for him to "not be sure if they still have a particular one around", they must have nearly as many as shoepatcher or singermania ..If they do, he'll scrutinise it it more closely, I'll be phoning him gain later today to see if there are any more details forthcoming, meanwhile here is the photo of the crest area featuring two lions rampant and again a castle entrance, but with a band of decorated work in the form of a letter S ( made me wonder the "S" ) that they had in their original ad. The "head" of his wife's machine looks to be the same as the one that UPFrank and Uwe have, A little more researching around the web says that "shutz-marke" is definitely "trade mark" and that the S is / was the logo of Adler..pic of a badge from another ( not a shoe patcher machine ) machine http://www.collectorsweekly.com/stories/79583-schutz-sewing-machine This has the lions and the castle gateway, maybe ( UPFrank and Uwe ), your machines are early Adlers ? before they put the "S" into their logo ? Why would a company whose name begins with a "D" for Dürkopp or an "A" for Adler, use an "S" in their logo ? A long article on the Dürkopp company here, http://www.fundinguniverse.com/company-histories/dürkopp-adler-ag-history/ says "By the 1880s several other Bielefeld firms were competing with Dürkopp", maybe the lions and castle entrance is the coat of arms for the town of Bielefeld ? So the machine -( of UPFrank and Uwe ) maybe came from some factory there, but maybe not Dürkopp ?

On the site that Constabulary linked to in that thread, http://schiffmann-orthopaedie.de/fussorthopaedie-beckingen-merzig-lebach/antike-schuhmacher-naehmaschinen/ there is a machine ( but we can only see the stand ) which has the same two lions and castle entrance as yours..it says "LSO Wolfhagen-Bründersen" if shoepatcher joins in here, or steve ( singermania ) and they can give more info concerning the "chateau in France" that has the same model as shoepatcher's machine on steroids, I'll happily try to find a phone number for the chateau in question and see if I can get in touch with them and find out more..If it isn't too far away, I could maybe visit with my wife, and camera ( I will probably have to swear to her that I'm not gong to come back with yet another sewing machine but we both visit a lot of chateaux anyway each year. Btw..we definitely need more of what Constabulary refers to in that thread as "stolen pictures" , actual pictures "stolen"from ebay in particular ( as opposed to just links to ebay ) , a lot of links in that thread 404 because the auctions are now over and so there are no pictures of the machines, and the Russian link is also a 404. Btw2..what is it with "lions rampant" and sewing machines from Germany ?

The Chinese Highlead site works just fine..I just clicked on your link ( the one you posted above ) and the site opens up with no problem, and I can navigate all around it..You probably have a problem ( it is not "resolving" for you , so appears down* ) on your DNS ( Dynamic Name Server ) provider..try clearing the cache on your browser and trying to connect again, if you still can't get through then wait around 12 hours and try again, some DNS systems "forget" some sites and have to have their memory jolted again when they talk to the other major DNS servers around the world ( there are around a dozen big ones ) ..or you can set your DNS provider ( on your router and computer , if you know how ) to 8.8.8.8 ( that is Google's DNS service ) ..and try.. *When you cannot reach a site, there are a few websites that you can use to check if the site is "down" for just you, or "down" for everyone.. Search for "is it down for just me"..and you'll find them, I suggest that you "bookmark" one that you are OK with ( one that doesn't ask that you give them a pint of blood and your first-born, or like them on faceburg to use their service ), can be very useful, or you can try running "traceroute" ( or an equivalent ) from a terminal on your computer..

Yep ..did all of that just after posting the above Wiz I discovered that ever since my join date ( two years ago ) I was "opted in" for "immediate notifications" by email, of each and every post, by anyone ( without realising ) to every thread I'd ever posted in, and some I hadn't even posted in..good thing I run my own mail server, otherwise some ISP might be getting on my case about "inbox full" , I must have thousands of emails from here to go and empty / delete..I hear what you say about some software / website designers..if they can "bloat it" with "bells and whistles" they will, and they leave all the "bells and whistles" set to "on as default", without making it obvious ( or "off as default", which is the intelligent way, and the latter way saves the site owner some money on bandwidth and CPU RAM etc ) all those calls to the server and "notification of new post" emails flying out add up, raise server running costs, and can also be expensive for visitors who are not on unlimited data plans...and the poor souls on mobile phones with non "unlimited data plans", data bills go through the roof.

Got to agree with you there Uwe, I was basing my assessment of the manufacturer on the pictures on the machine, but, the details on the castings on the stand are definitely like those of the C. Schmidt & Hengstenberg in your lower picture, maybe the machine is a hybrid ?( someone replaced the head with another but kept the stand ? ) ..Just noticed that I left the http:// part on all those links above, whilst not allowing scripts* from LW ( doing so makes the back end end of the forum here auto-link them back to this same page,I must remember not to for anyone interested, here are the links that actually "link out", I posted the above ones and then got busy without checking to see if they worked.. http://leblogdecallisto.blogspot.fr/search/label/Claes http://www.schmitt-photography.de/?p=750 http://www.dtoday.de/startseite/bilder/detailansicht_mmid,9761.html http://needlebar.org/cm/thumbnails.php?album=428 http://www.cl-maschinenbau.com/unternehmen/history.php?lang=en *When you have over 2000 tabs open ( like I do ATM ) allowing scripts slows the machine to a crawl, over 5 GiB of RAM used just for scripts ( not counting what is being used by other programs I have running at the same time ) from various sites in all the tabs. the ones here that seem to et RAM are the pre-ticked "notify me" ones, horrible idea, that ought to be set to "opt in" not "opt out", ie: not pre ticked boxes, anywhere, for anything..on any site, ever.. :((( It is also waaaay less work for the website server,if one is not "auto-opted in" to "follow" and "notify" and "let others know that I'm following" etc etc..Going through unticking all boxes now..Great site and resource, but that "auto opt in" to so much of that kind of stuff is crazy, and burns CPU cycles and RAM at both server and Browser, ( not to mention all the emails that it generates ) ends..

For sewing bags, any flat bed machine is going to be like playing tennis handcuffed to a partner, possible, but frustrating and it will get old fast. get a cylinder arm machine and make a flat bed to go around the arm ( out of wood, many here have done so, with their cylinder arm machines ) for when you need a flat bed surface to work on.

Nice machine* :) Looks like someone repainted the top in "hammer paint" ( carefully masking of some parts and removing others )..hammer paint needs a special thinner / diluant to not run or sag or make fish eyes when sprayed, those that can be seen don't matter, as long as it runs cleanly and doesn't leave rust marks on the leather. Might be worth your while matching the base with grey hammer paint to the top..Now my urge to buy a cylinder arm is back again :) *Also very nice clear photos, lots of detail :)

You are looking at a Claes.. http://leblogdecallisto.blogspot.fr/2015/11/claes-flentje-mulhouse.html Sorry page is entirely in French, I can make you an English translation of the text later today, a bit busy at the moment.. Scroll down to the bottom of that French page and you'll see some links , 4 in total ( where it says "cliquer ici" ) to more photos and material.. translation ..done whilst drinking 1st coffee of the day..so not "tidied up" ..but HTH anyway ; ) ********************* A small article of an historical character, for once, about a manufacturer of industrial machines: Claes & Flentje. This company was founded in 18 August 1869 by Ernst Bernhard Claes and Franz Theodor Flentje. They launced into the production of sewing machines for cobblers, and, from 1875, into knitting machines.The factory celebrated it's 10,000 sewing machine produced in 1876.It continued to diversify and launched into the production of bicycles in 1889, under the name of "Pfeil" ( "fleche" in French, * "arrow" in English ). In 1900 the factory employed over 1000 workers,.In 1913 the total production statitics ( all years combined )showed .. *300,000 sewing machines produced *190,000 knitting machines *107,000 bicycles The first world war and the great depression would have important consequences for the company.it ceased production of sewing machines in 1926, and later bicycles in 1928, finally becoming bankrupt in1932. The company was bought and re-opened it's doors in 1933it now made only sewing machines and knitting machines.It was now named Claes & co Gmbh. Like all German companies, it participated in the war effort during the second world war.at the end of which, it returned to the production of sewing machines and knitting machines, but now with only 60 employees.Knitting machine production was abandoned in 1961. The company was nationalised in 1972 in the VEB ( = state owned company of what was then East Germany ) "Spezialnähmaschinenwerk Mülhausen" ( = "Industrail sewing machines" ) 200 workers became employees of the Combinat ( a sort of "worker's co-operative"..*a German speaker will translate that word more accurately ) "Textima". The company continued to produce sewing machines for cobblers until 1991, when the re-privatisation failed. However, three previous employees would eventually retake the company.The new company began on the 20th December 1994 and was called "CL Machinenbau GmbH". It moved to new premises in 1995 and the "historical buildings" were demolished in 2012. Some links Photos taken in the old abandoned building.. http://www.schmitt-photography.de/?p=750 Photos of the demolition of the "historical building".. http://www.dtoday.de/startseite/bilder/detailansicht_mmid,9761.html Photos of a cobbler's sewing machine made by Claes & Flentje. http://needlebar.org/cm/thumbnails.php?album=428 and finally the website of the company CL Maschinenbau GmbH http://www.cl-maschinenbau.com/unternehmen/history.php?lang=en ************************** Translated from Calisto's original article in French .

Wouldn't a 29K51 be better for that depth ( room to sew ) of toe ? mine has an arm "diameter" ( it isn't a perfect circle, but a sort of "rounded off" square cross section at the bobbin end of 25mm or just a millimetre over and inch )..your Robin looks to be maybe twice as deep( top to bottom ) as that from the needle plate to the underside of the arm ? I'm basing that "guesstimate" on the needle diameter , if the needle is a #20 or so ?

Of course, you could count the number of times that that method has gone wrong, on the fingers of ...

This place is definitely not "harsh" , programmer's fora ( even the "lightweight" ones like "el reg" ) on the other hand..

Bonjour, Earlene.. "nice shoe" :)..there is a coffee ad on French tv featuring Jean Dujardin and George Clooney.. the punch line is "nice shoes"..and "what else " I agree with Uwe, I have a 29k, ( and some other machines, triple and double action flat beds and zig zags for embroidery ) it was the workhorse for many a french cordonnier, ( I bought my 29K to fix a zip on a pair of my wife's boots : ) but , given that the 29K's you can find on "le bon coin" etc here in France are usually sold for decoration, and they are frequently at €500.oo or above even in "not working" condition.. you may well spend money on one and be disappointed, the spare parts for a 29k in France are also very very high, UK and US prices for spares are much much better.. The 29k, even if you could find one in very good condition , and with a reasonable stitch length, are really nowadays a shoe repairers machine, ( you see them here in a lot of the "shoe bars", hidden away at the back for repairs to shoes and bags ) ..they are not a machine for production.. The Pfaff that Uwe found is a much better choice for your main machine, and that price €750.oo new, is the price that I have seen some very used Pfaff post beds go for here on "le bon coin" ( le bon coin is like craigslist, without the "adult" and "off the wall" areas ).. btw Earlene? I just had a look at your page on wix..( I had to authorize a whole bunch of wix scripts to get it to open ..) superb work I'd suggest that you look at making a site in prestashop ( you can run it in multi-lingual version English and French ) it has some very attractive themes, and it is free, most of the French banks can integrate an online payment system straight into it with a simple click, so you can take credit cards and paypal.. Send me a message ( click on my name on the left of this page ) if you want to know more about it..I also noticed that your French text has some errors ( it is a very complicated language, took me years to learn and become fluent, ) I can tidy the text up for you, at no charge, free.. good work ( and yours is very good ) should be encouraged..

Ah..Now I see what you mean Floyd, yes the bobbin case is rotated CW by about a 1/10 of a turn too far the tab should be just behind the needle hole in the feed dog plate, and the "point" ( triangular part ) of the bobbin case should be approaching the "finger" from the right side of it, not past it to the left of it near the needle..good catch btw..Floyd..When I realised what you meant, I turned around to check mine, and found I had about 12 inches of 92 thread caught up around mine that I hadn't noticed, it was just at the point of where it was getting caught between the case and the hook and would have caused a jam ( and I'd have had to unmount the case to clear it ) as it was , I was able to catch the end with tweezers and slowly pull it all out, wouldn't have seen that if you hadn't made me look..Thanks My file shows a bunch of stuff that isn't on my machine, but the actual case and hook ( apart from the case and hook and bobbin may be the larger size on georgeandgracie's machine, haven't seen the bobbin yet to know, the larger ones have holes all around ) and thread guides , tension discs etc are the same as on the photos.

That is the way I orient mine ..it works.. Put the felt pad back in if you have it ? pass the thread between the front of it and the clip ( that will stop it "flapping about" ) put a drop or 3 ( don't saturate it, despite what Singer say ) of oil onto it right next to where the thread goes through 'twixt it and the clip.. Now turn the machine by hand , look for where ( if anywhere ) the thread appears to suddenly get a little furry like it went past a surface with a burr.. Ok ..off to stop the Satay from burning

That is not a "nut" that is a screw ..look like some kind of grub screw..to hold something in place..in your place I would stop sewing right now..take the machine ( and the screw ) to a machine mechanic and get it fixed and set up professionally before you break something very expensive and maybe irreparable and get left with a boat anchor..also the screw might have been holding something which now is going to be loose and may result in a piece breaking and flying off and injuring you.. Having read few of your posts it seems time to say ( without being unkind in any way ) you appear to be way out of your depth with your machine, spend the money and get it set up professionally, and learn what the parts are called, a screw is not a nut..a nut goes onto a screw or a bolt..a nut has sides ( 4 or 6 or sometimes more ) and has a threaded hole through the middle of it, through which a screw or bolt is inserted and turned to tighten the assembly and whatever else it is designed to be holding..

Can't see where you got anything about the setting of the bobbin basket tab ( what is a "basket tab" ? ) from any of the posts in this thread there Floyd.. Enjoy your Sunday anyway :)..I'm going to start cooking dinner and mix me a sunrise and break open a pack of beer..raises glass to you I forgot to reply to dikman..sorry / mes excuses yes..I think the only real differences are the internal lubrication ( not talking about the "thread lubrication" here ) is automated on the 566/7..and that the min stitch count is 3 spi on the 566/7 as opposed to 5 spi on the 166 etc..3 spi I'd like very much ..I might see if there could be a way of "tuning" my 166a to get longer stitches at the extreme end of the count..given that the reverse stitch spi count of the 566/7 is 5 spi, the same as mine it just might be possible, if it was totally different internals to drive the feed dogs ( which governs forward and reverse spi *) it wouldn't strike me as possible , but if they used a "tweaked" drive to get the extra length on the 566/7 it might be worth a try.. Not that I'd need the extra length stitch, but the urge to tinker and tweak sometimes sneaks up on one in the wee small hours *Yes..terrible oversimplification in that phrase, but you get where I'm thinking ..

Ok..Yesterday took longer than expected , ( looked in , saw your post but was too tired to be typing ) and was out again today..now I an hour or so to catch up on "web stuff" .. First..your top picture..showing what we could call "the last element in the thread path before the thread gets to the needle area"..or "unusual thread guide" for short..I have only seen these sort on twin needle machines ..each thread passes to a separate side of the middle screw.. I have seen them called "butterfly" thread guides.. I think that it may have been "cannibalized" from another machine..to know if the problem comes from there. Pull out some slack thread from between it and the felt pad above it..about a half a yard.. hold the thread ( pinch between thumb and forefinger ) above the "slack" you just made, just below where it comes out from the felt pad* ( the one that Singer say to lubricate via the oil tank at the top at the rear of the machine ) to the left of the take up arm..Now with the other hand, pull the thread ( still threaded through the needle ) to take up the "slack" that you made, this will pull it through that "butterfly thread guide", watch there closely, is it stripping fibres, even a little, does the thread enter clean and smooth, but come out slightly furry , does it feel like it is abrading and not merely guiding ? * The "shiny clip where the oiled felt pad lives is your machine is identical to the one on mine.. They look nothing like the Singer diagram, the Singer diagram shows what looks like a wedge shaped felt pad, totally enclosed in a metal wedge shaped box with the "apex" ( yes normally we say apex for the top, but, work with me ) pointing downwards towards the needle..doesn't help at all when they draw one thing and then fit a different thing.. They say that the thread should pass at the back of this felt pad, between it and the metal clip, up close to the machine casing, and that the oil reservoir should be set to allow the felt pad to be permanently oiled and so the thread picks up the oil.. Maybe that works if the machine is running at 3500 to 5000 stitches per minute, in that case any given yard of thread which passes will get only a minute amount of oil.. However , running the machines as slow as we do for leather ( or in your case waxed canvas ), during any given minute lot less thread ( shorter length of thread ) goes past the felt pad, consequently it gets a lot more oil, it gets saturated with oil, and messes up the work and the mechanism around the hook and the feed dogs, if the thread is also being subjected to any abrasion, however slight, that makes for sticky oily gunk where it shouldn't be, and eventual hook jams.. I shut off the oil flow from that tank on mine completely, I pass the thread at the front of the felt pad ( but still behind the part of the "clip" nearest to me, and at the beginning of a sewing day, I put a drop of oil on the pad manually..this works fine..no gunk, and when the foot is raised ( so no tension on the discs ) the thread pulls freely through all the thread path and through the needle.. A shame that the second picture you posted wasn't as big as the first one, and was "head on" as I can't actually see if you have a felt pad in there, nor whether your thread is passing at the front or the back of the felt pad ? , if there is any felt pad there ?.. btw..One other thing the first thread guide ( the bar with holes in it ) above the thread tension system and slightly to the right, almost above the part where it says "Singer" ..on yours you have it set at about 5 minutes past 3 o' clock..and the thread makes a steep angle as it exits the last hole and goes to the tension discs..mine I keep set at about the 7 o'clock position..ie ; the pivot point is at the middle of the clock face and the bar is pointing downwards at around the 7 o'clock position, this means that the thread enters the first hole from the bobbin on the thread stand at almost no angle at all and leaves almost in a straight line, no impediment to the "flow"..the way yours is set the thread goes through the holes entering and leaving a some quite tight angles, this can add to any abrasion if everything is not mirror polished , and it adds to tension even before the thread gets to the tension discs, these guides with the holes in are to guide the thread and to help correct any "kinks" that it might pick up as it comes off the bobbin , they are not meant to be used to put additional tension on the thread ( however small the amount it may be ) before it gets to the tension discs..But I know there are a lot of videos on the web that would lead you to believe otherwise..Anything that introduces tension or slows the thread up other than the tension discs is a bad thing..all the "bright wear" is meant to guide only. Only the springs ( take up spring etc ) and the tension discs are meant to "control".. Oh ..and before I forget..there is at least one guy on the web ( I think it is atlaslevy, he of the videos that make you feel sea sick )..that says that you should pass the thread ( as it comes off from between the tension discs ) over the little pin that is at the bottom right of them and which "bites into them" in a tiny crescent, and then on down and around the check spring discs control area..Well he is 100% wrong, do not do that..that little "pin" is there to stop the tension discs spinning ( "revolving" ) and so not keeping the thread under constant tension..you do not pass the thread around this pin you go straight down out of the tension discs to the check spring discs and around them and up to the check spring.. You may be doing yours the correct way, but I can' tell from the photo you posted above, so just a "heads up" in case. HTH M I'd be interested to hear from Eric and or Wiz re the "auto thread oiling" in an industrial high speed setting versus the "manual oil drop" in a slow speed leather sewing setting..

You could braid whips..to while away the hours..also would do wonders for your reputation at work

That looks like it is made up of fibres coming off the thread you are using , same colour as the thread ( might be from the fabric, what colour is the fabric, but IMO, if it was the fabric then your other machine would show the same thing ) .."thread lubrication" via filling the oil reservoir and letting it "bleed" onto the felt pad in the thread path, personally I don't bother, I tried it, the reservoir "bleed" cannot be set to allow only a tiny amount, the felt pad got saturated, thread got waaay too oily, I didn't get the "gunk" , but it made the leather messy..it looks like something is fraying the thread and breaking off fibres from it as it passes down the thread path to the needle..can you take a photo of the thread path from the tension disc down to the needle ( just in case you are threading it in a way that is abrading the thread ) you might have a burr on a metal edge somewhere between the take up spring and the needle eye..I'm out for a while today, but I'll look in again later..

I think the "thing" in the centre is a shuttle*.. *oscillating bobbin used before they went to revolving bobbins on most machines..you can't use those "shuttle" sort of machines for embroidery work..on domestic machines they began phasing them out during the 1920s or so I think.. I notice that the artwork on the top image is finer ( better detail ) and that they went through a partial name change MFG Co to MANFG CO ( note the large O in the latter , and the addition of the A and the N..The design is changed to make the rivets miss the letters and the place is "lost"..nowadays such changes would be very costly in Whale song and joss sticks, and come at a six figure price.. There may also have been the input of "illuminati" ;)..or not..

mods...accident in aisle 5 ..thread clean up..if you get the time

Tejas ..your "link out" is malformed and just redirects to this page..can you edit it and check it ( click on it ) to make sure it works ..I know what you mean ( I make my own , as I suspect do many others here ) but others reading may not know what a "presser foot spacer" looks like .. http://www.threadstandhero.com/Presser_Foot_Spacers.html Ok belay that ..I read the page source and managed it..got an "alert" that you posted while I was sorting it..cross posting..:)

Ah..was yours the problem with the "puckering" ? I remember a very interesting thread with a lot of interesting input, and a few sewn examples from Eric ( gottaknow ) and advice from him to get a needle feed machine..i haven't got any of what you are sewing to hand, but , if I can find some ( I might have some somewhere, or might be able to get a yard or so..or in my case a metre or so ..if I can get a hold of some , I'll try to replicate the thicknesses* that you are working on, and the seam crossings etc, to see what the machine ( I think that mine and yours will be very similar in their settings for leather or textiles or mixes of both etc ) needs setting to to work well.. Can't promise as I have no guarantee that I have some or can get some , but , I'll try over the next week or so.. *my speelchucker thinks that "thicknesses" is not a real word.."uppity software" .. ps..what is the weight..in ozs per sq yard ( I can do the conversion to metric ) of the basic "twill waxed canvas" textile that you are using..and what ( excuse my lack of knowledge ..) is meant by the word filter in "filter twill waxed canvas" so as I'll know what to translate the term to.."filter" translates ( word for word ) to "filtre" which is going to be wrong :)..as is almost all "word for word" translation in any language pair..

You are welcome btw..What is the total thickness that you are trying to sew ? I can get mine to sew through 8mm to 9 mm without a problem, but if I try over 9mm ( which I should not with that machine, but one always tries eh the presser bar lifts high enough so that the mechanism inside the end of the head pushes on the tension release rod and I lose top tension as the tension discs separate. It "steps up" or "walks up" from 1mm or 2mm to 3mm or 4 mm and onwards to 8mm or 9mm without any problems, but it will not go ( "step up or walk up" ) directly from 1mm or 2mm ..which isn't really surprising, as the increase in thickness there butts up against the front of the feet..despite them being made with an upward angled edge to help "squash" the incoming thickness increase.. The pressure on the pressure feet is adjustable via a "knurled knob" on the top of the machine directly ( natch' ) over the pressure feet , I keep the pressure light, just enough to hold the leather down when the needle is moving the leather, not enough pressure to leave marks..The "lift" of the pressure feet on mine is controlled by a slot head screw "button" at the top of centre back of the machine..It is on a "boss" that sticks out towards the back ( away from you when you are sat operating the machine ) in the middle of the main machine body casting, just below the top cover plate that runs along the top of the machine..If you adjust it ( rare that you'd need to ) do so in small increments, like a quarter of a turn, make note of where it was set to when you began, easy to get lost and not be able to get back to a "known good setting" )..There is another button near the centre of the top plate..AFAIK this one should be pressed down when adjusting the slotted screw on the lift adjustment, but, when I did so for the first time it made a loud "click"..<= the kind that makes you think "Oh noes , that sounds broken expensive"..But nothing was broken, and it did not seem to have affected anything ( maybe it was just a bit "frozen" or "stuck" from "long time no touch or run" ) ..the machine still runs perfectly.. One day I'm going to feed a little fibre optic camera down the various holes of each of my machines, turn them over by hand and see what they are all doing in there in the darkness..A shame that so many of the machine manufacturers didn't provide better, more coherent and clear "exploded cutaway diagrams" ..or better "exploded parts diagrams"..my very first degree was in art but specialised in scientific and medical illustration ( I did others in the Arts and other actual sciences later )..and even with my background I sometimes look at sewing machine "cutaways" and "parts drawings" thinking "you could have made that a lot more clear guys"..car, truck and bike engine manuals and electro-mechanical drawings are not great for clarity, but some sewing machine manuals are more like grimoires that try to hide the arcane stuff from the mere owner / operators eyes..some of singers own scans look like they were made by someone drunk and in a hurry with a very old scanner badly set up.. Hence I ( and I suspect many others here do the same ) grab any manuals uploaded ( even if I don't have the machine I might one day ) ..one day ( when I get a box of 30 hour days ..and "a round tooit" ) I'm going to redraw the ones I have in a vector program, clean them up and make them coherent.. I just received a Jack 550 servo motor, manual in "Chinglish", drawings that make little sense , not next to the "text' that describes them..the "un mechanically minded" would try to follow "the instructions"..and let the magic smoke out within 5 minutes of attaching the various components to the machine table..I'm re-making a coherent manual with understandable text and clear photos for it in between building the garage and other things, I'll upload it in English when done , there seem to be a few servo motor models which use the same system and control box, maybe useful to some, when you read the "Chinglish" your brain hurts and you get the feeling that someone slipped you a roofie or you got locked in the refrigerator.. It has to be said though that the Chinese manufacturers written "Chinglish" is way better than my written Mandarin or Cantonese would be, at least they tried, and it isn't all skewed on the paper like the majority of the .pdf scans are at singer and other sites ( even the sites that sell you manuals that can be found for free and in better quality elsewhere )..Best manuals would be as mini websites ( HTML with .jpgs, gifs, anigifs and mpeg "how to" files )..downloadable and with "follow along" .pdf files atfached..I feel an idea for another business coming on.. re "The clutch reset" button on the machine bed..there is a video on youtube for singer walking foot 111..I think maybe it was made by Eric ( gottaknow) posting there as as "thumpr2good" ( or it may be someone else and not Eric ) that explains how the clutch works and how to reset it and how to replace some parts of it..there is definitely one by Uwe ( also of this parish )..search singer clutch on youtube and you'll find them in the first 4 youtube results..