mikesc

No, Tyvek doesn't have those properties, it is just a non woven fabric that can be washed and dry cleaned that can be : is used as a stiffener in bags and purses..also sold as interfacing or fusible web or stabiliser..Companies who sell it frequently sell other "technical fabrics and foams" )..for what you want , you should look around the 3M site and or search for technical fabrics or technical foams.. ps "rubber thongs"..as in footwear, or as in BDSM gear ? If the latter, search for rubber sheeting, latex sheeting, foam sheeting..also available on rolls. Ah ..just searched EVA foam or PEVA foam ..now I know what it is that you are looking for : ).. a search for distributors in Australia brings up a few.. http://www.google.com/search?q Any one of them who is an actual manufacturer should give you the best price ( will be cheaper by the roll ) ..afterwards it will be the shipping ( you live in a big place ) that will make a difference you could also try www.evafoams.com depends on how much you want..

You may be able to get that from companies who supply "Tyvek" also used in bags and purses as a stiffener , it isn't so thick ( it is sold in rolls and sheets ) many of the suppliers / distributors also have sheet or roll foam ..

What you have looks to be a Juki clone, which exact model Juki it is based upon I cant say ATM ( just on my way out , will look in later ) it is a textile stitcher, no walking foot or needle feed fro leather, and is a manual oiler , that is the drip pan not an oil bath, and as you have found out the round thing actuates the knee lift..doesn't look like it will "zig-zag"..( no stitch width adjuster ) straight "lockstitch" machine..Take a pic of the underneath of the table so we can see what kind of motor it has ( probably clutch ) ..On these the stitch tensioning is easy :) take a pic of the bobbin area ( with the slide back ) too, every little helps to identify which Juki they based it on and so which manuals would be the ones to look for.. a lot of "rebadged stuff " bearing the chandler name plate http://www.ebay.com/bhp/chandler-sewing-machine The maximum stitch length available, the hook and bobbin type, will help to find what precise model of Juki that yours is a "rebadge" of.. could be based on a Juki DDL 550 series or something similar..light to medium weight textile sewing machine.. BTW..re "overoiling" just leave a few folded over sheets of kitchen paper towel under the needle and feet and some newspaper folded over ( so that the gears etc don't catch on it ) in the drip tray..this will absorb any "overoiling" that you may have done, a little too much oil on bearings and gears is always better than not quite enough oil..

When it is in correctly, "the little arms" should be sticking up slightly nearer to you ( and therefore the bobbin ) than to the base of the case..it is the arms that touch the bobbin, and prevent the "backlash", not the centre of the disc. HTH

Try filling ( note that is not "filing" ) the teeth in with two part car body filler ( used to be called "bondo" in the USA years ago) mix the two parts, fill in between the teeth, "over fill" just a little bit, smooth down to "level" with 400 grit paper and then with 1000 grit paper..later if you want to get the bondo out and have feet with teeth again, soak the feet in automotive paint thinner overnight and the bondo will let go enough to be picked out with a toothpick, put some in a jar and add the feet, then put a top on the jar to stop it evaporating away ( the recycled automotive paint thinner will do, or acetone )..wear kitchen gloves or latex gloves if you are not allergic to latex when you handle the bondo during mixing ( many people are allergic to the catalyst part of the two part )..and automotive paint thinners is "low flash point" ( catches fire easily ) and is not good for you to breath, so don't..and keep all that stuff away from your eyes and from children.. A friendly body shop might just give you a spoon of fresh bondo ready mixed..you could also use two part epoxy resin the kind that you get in a "stick" from hardware store, sand it down the same way as you would the bondo, clean up with acetone ( again acetone catches fire easily , is bad for you,and keep it way from kids )..Don't smooth the feet out so much that they slip..the 400 grit paper smoothing of the epoxy two part, may be enough by itself.. HTH

I just read about resoline ( never used it, don't even know if one can get it here, but the description of it's properties sounds familiar ), flexible acrylic waterproof clear coat, which I suspect would give your leather a higher friction co-efficient after you apply it, and may even make the leather below the surface slightly "stickier" than raw veg tan. So..if it is maybe making the leather stick to the thread, the stickiness would vary with the characteristics of the leather area that the resoline is applied to, leather isn't going to be consistently absorbent , even after tanning, especially veg tanning ( fats and oils in the skin etc make each square millimetre slightly different in the way it would absorb an acrylic based paint, dye or clear coat ), so if the thread is sticking even a minute amount from time to time, the tensions will be off..Try going up a size on your needle ( use the next size up ) whilst keeping the same thread size, bigger hole may help the thread to "slip" rather than stick.. May help..worth a try..HTH :) I think a titanium coated needle may also make a smoother hole ( a sort of "polish the sides of the hole as they pierce" or maybe they even make a minutely fractionally larger hole ? ) which would explain why they help in the cases of "sticky" material. you could try using a larger needle while you wait for your titanium needles to arrive.

A Google search gets me a whole lot of stuff about that model, including a youtube video and some manuals and parts list on google docs.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iRQcknn1sk

Nope, you have a collection, :) One can never have too many musical instruments, or sewing machines, or tools, or brushes, or...

I don't know any answers to your questions..but, just posted to say, that is one cute machine there :)

Emotion thirded..the only reason to sell a Gibson would be to buy a Strat, or a Saxophone.

@MaryGladys..please read this thread too, take a look at the video that is embedded in it, it shows you how to make a speed reducer that will fix onto the top of your table behind the machine head..These are easier to make than ones that fit under the table..( mine is an "under the table sort" ) .It will also allow your Dad to see if his speed reducer is likely to do what you require.

That beeping would drive me insane, sounds like Harry has R2D2 powering his machine there.. just a note..belt length isn't measured on the inside circumference of the belt, it is measured on the "median" circumference..which means it is between the outside circumference and the inside circumference of the belt..So to get the belt size that one needs, measure with your string in the bottom of the grooves( inside circumference of the belt ), and then with your string at the top of the grooves ( outside circumference of the belt) subtract the smaller figure from the larger, divide it by two, and add the result to the smaller figure..that is the median circumference belt that you need..most times you can adjust the motor or the reducer to compensate for only having measured the inside of the belts, but sometimes you can't..ordering by the "median circumference" number means fewer belts that "won't quite fit no matter what you adjust".. Most of us here will know that, but for anyone reading who didn't , it might save you wasting some money on belts that are "just a bit the wrong size". Measuring Harry's way ( the inside circumference ) will get you a belt that will be just a little bit smaller than it should be.

It "hums" along nicely in C# ? for €500.oo extra, I'd like it to make coffee and, do the dishes and take out the trash too..

Very "old school" indeed almost steampunk..but, if it works..

kornetshop.com is not a "he" ..kortnetshop.com is a "she" domain registrant is Svetlana Moiseeva..( website contact says Frau Dubina Svetlana ) has European VAT number ..VAT number: DE 241602141 The owner is probably originally from Bishkek, Kirgistan, and is now married to a Mr ( Herr ) Dubina ? Legally the business must have an office presence in DE in order to have a DE VAT number, whether that means they have machine stocks, or spare parts in DE..I cannot know. Or maybe just a business address there and maybe the actual business is elsewhere, I cannot know..the telephone number is in DE ( Kaiserslautern ), but, telephone numbers, when called, can be redirected automatically to anywhere in the world if one wishes.I have business / office addresses and phone/fax numbers in countries where I do not live, to do so is legal..When dealing with any business , one researches, and one makes up one's own mind. whois details for that domain.. http://webstarratings.com/whois-dns/kornetshop.com https://who.is/whois/kornetshop.com Company details ..page is in German and available in English.. http://www.firmenwissen.de/az/firmeneintrag/67655/7090145354/SVETLANA_MOISEEVA_ONLINE_VERKAUF.html Company is a "sole trader" female owned, owned by Sonix ltd s.r.o Sonix ltd s.r.o is a Czech company..I'll let you search further if you wish..I cannot read Czech very well. http://firmy.euro.cz/subjekt-sonix-ltd-s-r-o-24230286 residential address for the part owner ( there are 3 owners ) Svetlana Moiseeva does indeed appear to be in Biškek Kyrgyzská republika

That 1st image actually looks like a very simple frequency variater, or it might be some other kind of speed control device (AMCO is not a company that I'm familiar with, don't think they sell in Europe ) the 3 cylindrical grey things I think are probably capacitors, with covers on, if so,they'll bite you hard given a chance..the square thing is a transformer..don't take it apart any further, put the cover back on..count yourself fortunate that you didn't let the "magic smoke "out of anything, including yourself..get in touch with JSLeather.. The small cylinder in the last image that is pointing out towards you, no idea what it is, never seen that set up before..( I do hope it is all well earthed , and that your circuit breakers are working, lot of wires hanging around there ) maybe someone in the USA such as Wiz or Eric etc has seen similar. I don't have any pictures ATM of my servo and speed reducer set up, but dikman might have some of his ( which we think is basically the same as mine ) and if you search for constabulary an speed reducers or constabulary and servo motors he has posted some pictures of his set up which is also basically the same.In both their cases and in mine the servo motor has a separate control box for setting speeds, JSLeather's speed controls are on the motor itself, which, as I said above is no big deal, his motor is more powerful that the motors we have, ours are all ( I think ) 550W , I built a 5:1 reducer, I think constabulary's is a 3:1, I think dikman's is the same as constabulary's..My set up will sew through 8 or 9 mm of veg tan easily..and I get around 1 stitch every 4 or 5 seconds if I only just apply pressure on the pedal, if I press down harder, i have it set to a max speed of 200 SPM..I could set it to begin at i stitch very 4 or 5 seconds and a max speed of 4500 SPM..But I prefer to work slowly as I'm making prototypes of my designs which I then have manufactured elsewhere ( long story, which I have touched upon before in other posts, but not going to go into it, and thus off topic, in this thread ).. Dinner is cooking ( it is 23.00 hrs here ) ..I cook in our house, I need to go and serve it, I'll look in later

What company name is on the clutch, and on the box with what "look like huge transistors", it may be that you have a variospeed clutch ( or something similar ) .I have something which would fit your description on my Juki DLU 490..if it is that sort of thing, you cannot use it to control a servo motor.. If you fit a servo motor , with separate digital controller ( you buy the "kit" and it goes in the same place as your clutch motor, you take off the clutch motor and the servo motor bolts right into the same holes, the digital controller goes where your "on/off" switch is at the right side of the table, and the speed reducer ( which is really just two pulleys, a big one and a small one stuck together on the same shaft as each other ) is powered by the servo motor by the first belt, if you fit the servo motor, with a speed reducer, you will have the kind of control that you are used to on your domestic machine..0 to however fast you want..in a nice smooth controllable ease down on the pedal and go..for that you'd want the kind of set up I have on my 211U166A. Just seen JSLeather has posted that he has a servo motor, would probably work for you, will depend on the specifications, bottom end speed setting etc.. Edit.. OK ..followed JSLeather's link, it will work for you, the up/down is on the motor rather than separately, that just means reaching under the table occasionally, to change the top speed, not a big deal, and for $100.oo in the box new, you can't go wrong..you may not even need to fit a speed reducer, 600W is a lot of power and so you'll certainly have the torque, if it will ramp up from zero, then you may not need to have the speed reducer pulleys set up to get the control that you want.. If your dad has a speed reducer, and you fit it along with the servo from JSLeather..even better, you'll be in sewing speed control heaven Actually I think it is quite possible that what you think are huge transistors are capacitors ( or at least one of them might be a capacitor ), careful, capacitors pack / keep enough "electrical bang" to kill you even when the power is switched off, don't mess with them, they are used to convert ( they create what could be thought of as a "fake phase" from the monophase input ) motors that would run on industrial 3 phase to run on domestic monophase electricity.. I presume you are on 110v ( monophase ) domestic electricity supply..most industrials clutch motors were originally made to run on 380v ( ish ) tri-phase industrial supply..but many have been converted , either by adding in a capacitor, or by using a frequency variater ( the "box" might even be one of these, either way don't mess with it ) when they are converted with a capacitor they lose around 30% of their power.

Each time I read your post there, I think, the THIRD time .."Ouch !!!!"

Some go slower ..I have a "jack" ( same type as constabulary, and I think maybe LumpenDoodle2 ..goes down to somewhere between 100 and 200 and up to 4500, speed is changed via separate control box with digital display ( can do changes in increments of 100 at a time )..but I don't know if the US dealers sell those.. I suspect that a geared model is probably better and stronger anyway, but have not seen any on sale separately in Europe.

What is in the inside depends on the manufacturer, some are controlled by a photocell ( there are some threads here on "how to mod" those, so that they have a less steep "initial bite" ) some are controlled entirely from the seperate "box" , some have a gearing system inside ( wiz has posted about those, one of the dealers here sells them )..I run a speed reducer ( that I built, a 5:1 ) on a 211U166A , at the slowest speed that gives around one stitch every 5 seconds, allows one to "draw" using stitches in leather with it..love that control

Yes, as Floyd says , you could always call Greg, Bob or Steve etc..do they do "longarm twin needle machines ?

very off topic.. Floyd, heh heh , yep 10 that are switched on almost permanently ( 4 of mine , in front of me right now ) two of my sons ( he also has all the consoles, sony, xbox etc, each generation ), one which my wife uses, one to run my printer, two laptops, eight screens ( plus a flat screen tv ) in the lounge, ( son has 3 more screens upstairs ) two tablets ( one also works as a phone ), wife has two cell phones ( one work one personal unlisted ), son has one cell phone, unlisted, I have 4 one work for one business, another work for another business, one personal unlisted ,and one just for the obligatory contact number for ICANN ( we have over 200 domain names and a whole bunch of live websites, which I build / built with some help from my son now he is grown up, in different languages and some in multiple languages )..we also have two landlines, both unlisted..and I have a rapidly growing collection of sewing machines ( 7 currently ), so I'm building an "add on" to the house ( was miking concrete and placing roof timbers and cinder blocks today <= one of the "better things to do with my time"..We live two minute walk from the beach, and I hardly ever get time to get my toes in the sand.. If I could use my time only for what I'd like..it would be to paint watercolours and sculpt almost every minute, that is what I really do, paint and sculpt, I'm a professional artist ( have been for over 50 years, with some other side jobs, even military ) who has always had some side businesses.. Jeff ..I may be able to help by "relaying" an enquiry for you to Highlead ,if you want to try, send me a pm, I'll get to it later ( cooking dinner ATM )..it is 22.oo hrs here ATM. /very off topic

Hi Jeff, You and your wife will both be using the same DNS provider..( because I presume that you'll have the same ISP, it will be Comcast or whoever that you have your phone or internet contract with ) so if you cannot get through to a site that works fro someone else, she won't be able to either..The problem is with your DNS provider ( which is usually the same as your ISP and or phone service provider ) not with your devices , Chinese hosted sites can be slow to load from anywhere in the USA except the west coast, because of this, many Asian companies ( not just the Chinese ones ) have their websites hosted in the USA..it helps to avoids "lag" and some( but not all ) potential DNS problems with their US customers or visitors.. I don't run any Apple gear here ( I have 10 computers and a half dozen tablets and smart phones ) all my stuff that is allowed to connect to the internet is linux, the win boxen I have are used for specific purposes like running a particular windows only software, and they are not allowed to connect to the internet, windows is far to vulnerable to attack and viruses, even when "hardened" by someone who has been using computers for 5 decades like myself..I can re-install a win box if it has a problem, but I have better things to do with my time nowadays..

Glenn, previous thread , in which you were involved in 2014, here mentions "Politype" and needlebar has this http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.php/Emile_James and this http://needlebar.org/nbwiki/index.php?title=File:Politype.jpg&page=1

The Belgian guy I spoke to ( haven't had time to phone him back yet, I've been out since this morning ) had his wife's machine on sale at €150.oo , but it was not as good condition as either of yours, didn't actually say if it worked or not..yes, highly likely that some manufacturers in the early days bought up their smaller competitors and then made "frankenbuilds" depending on what was on the newly combined shelves.. re the threading wire, my 29K came with one, already "a win" right there ( the people I bought it from had no idea what it was or how the machine worked, they'd inherited it, from the woman's grandfather who as a cordonnier / cobbler had bought it new in 1929) ,I've seen some people in France use a bicycle spoke with a notch cut in the end like you did with your welding rod.