mikesc

Price depends entirely on where each member is, ( used machines in Europe can cost 2 to 3 times the US price, likewise new machines ) better not to restrict price to $100 to $600..if you do restrict it to that price range, the thread, list and pdf will only be of any real relevance / interest to US members..

Singer 211U166 does have an "oil pad" in the downward thread path, between the "take up arm" and the thread guide on the case just above the needle bar ( hence I mentioned it above ), normally it is for oiling the thread, but it does add a tiny little bit of extra friction on the down path, and thus there is less "slack" below it than above it, that said, I bow to the far greater experience of Eric and Wiz, probably a tiny tweak on the timing and or the spring is "the fix"..

Found this when searching embroidery machines..cannot find out exactly what the machine is so as to be able to look out for one..I want one Yesterday I bought a 15K88 with treadle for slower work ( thanks for the pointer in that direction Darren ) ..But I'd love one of the machines ( or it's equivalent ) that Karen Nichol is using in this video..It is a singer, but what model ?

Would it help if the machine had something like the "thread guide with a felt pad" ( which is supposed to be drip fed with oil originally ) which is on my singer 211U166, while the thread can sometimes be a little slack above it, ( where the thread comes down from the "take up arm" ) below the felt pad and its holder, where the thread passes over the slight resistance of the felt pad ( and on down to the needle ) it is never so quite so slack ..Not saying necessarily to fit a felt pad and bar to your consew, but maybe introducing just a slight resistance along the path of the thread between the take up arm and the needle ? Removing some of the slackness below the take up arm is what I'm thinking of..even a tiny amount of resistance might work, without affecting "normal" good stitch formation.? Maybe just passing the thread across a felt pad stuck somewhere on that pathway with velcro , or double sided tape?, or just passing the thread across the "fluffy" part of some stitch on velcro somewhere where the thread passes over the machine body in that pathway just before it goes down to the thread guide on the needle bar above the needle..?

In a pinch ( like when you really need to get something done and you have no belt ) you can make a belt from a length of shock cord ( bungee cord to the "right side of the pond" ) pass it around the two pulleys that you need to connect, ( hold the end onto the groove on the biggest pulley ) just like as if it were the missing belt , mark on the cord where to "cut to correct length"..where the cord meets up with the end again on the biggest pulley, take it off the pulleys, now actually cut the shock cord 20% shorter than the length that you marked.. Butt the ends together, glue the frayed strands down smooth and sew ( by hand , with a curved needle if you have one ) the Butted ends together so that the join is a smooth as possible..make it solid and strong use more stitches than you would think, and make the stitches "bite "into the cord and it's outer layer at least 10mm from each side of the Butt join..try pulling the join apart ( don't go crazy pulling it, or it will rip apart for sure, but "test" it , put it snug over your two wrists and then move them apart by another 20% ) ..It holds? Good:) Now refit it around your two pulleys in place of the missing belt ( you'll have to stretch it a bit, like 20% ) it should now sit down in the pulley grooves a bit and grip )..This will keep you going until a real belt arrives in the mail, you'll probably feel a slight "bump" as the join goes around each time, but you'll be sewing..I ran my 211 like this for a week while I waited for the real belt to arrive, "no machines were harmed in the making of this hack"..Don't stretch much more than 20%, or you may be straining the bearings on the speed reducer or the motor drive pulley, can also be used as a temp substitution way of making the drive belt from the reducer to the machine head, or from a motor drive pulley to a machine head.. It probably isn't safe to run a Shock cord belt as fast as a real belt, so don't..But we are talking about speed reducers here, so you won't be running it fast anyway.. ( I did this, I take no responsibility for anything that anyone else might do as a result of reading this post , if it breaks and tears your leg off, don't come running to me as my Mum used to say ) Shock cord / bungee cord..like stretchy duct / gaffer tape :)

Depends entirely upon precisely what each machine is ( type and serial numbers etc )..and their condition ( how do they sew or skive etc ) ..Without that information it is simple Steel scrap in Europe goes for 5 cts of a Euro per kg..cast Iron scrap in Europe goes for 15 cts of a Euro per Kilo.. Mixed scrap ( unsorted machines without all the non ferrous parts taken off ) goes for 5 cts to 10 cts per kilo..( Yes that figure is higher than the steel price because the dealers figure that there might be something "interesting" in there* ) If it is oily ( traces of oil , like on a maintained machine count as "oily" ) the scrap price is nearer 5 cts per kilo. The copper in the windings in the motors is worth a little more as scrap , as is any bronze in the bushings.. Old thread is usually rotten or has "compressed" and is worthless, old needles are usually rusty and also worthless.. Railway track ( depending on where it is from ) for example has higher levels of manganese and some other things in there..any chromium fittings , or nickel fitting , or tin etc can move the price above the base scrap rate for steel ..but not by too much.. Some counties figures are higher or lower, like most "commodities" the price of a kilo of anything, depends on where it is and what quality it is and how scarce it is where the buyer is ..leather is like that too..as are 501s :)

There are.. But they are all around this kind of spec and price range.. http://www.globalsources.com/si/AS/BOMA-Sewing/6008841584595/pdtl/Direct-Drive-Electronic-Leather-Embroidery-Machine/1043228719.htm There is this video on a Brother PE-770 machine https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5A2NtU_Skw that appears to cope OK with 3oz garment leather..noisy though..( and I wish people would make videos like Uwe's and not go for all the over the top bling effects like Mr Arcuri does in his intro ) , and still an expensive machine, unless you are going to get a lot of use out of it..

Of course I phoned them ..I'm no expert on sewing machines, but I have been around them off and on since art school over 40 years ago.. ..I know the 211U166 ( and related models ) because I can reach behind me and touch my 211U166a machine from here, and since I got it , I've done everything to it barring a full "all rods and shafts and bearings out field strip" ..some here ( Eric, Wiz, Uwe and Constabulary and others ) are probably thinking "why hasn't he done that yet, lazy sod ?" Btw ..Typed a longish reply originally, grazed the wrong key ( one of the keys on my French keyboards seems to work as ghost "hot key" to delete text ( in linux Mint 17.2 ) in dialogue boxen in FF whilst typing, lost all my reply, so, "browser ate it"..bugrum..so here goes again.. As I said, I'm no sewing machine expert ( I don't even play on on the TV in my own head )..although there are many here, too numerous to mention all of them, perhaps they will join in , but I have been around sewing machines since my 1st art school back in the early 70s ( we had to learn how to make what we could design or draw, including how to use industrial sewing machines, industrial letterpress and litho printers etc, very good grounding, prevents people like Eric and Wiz having reasons to think disparaging thoughts about "designers and artist" who draw or design things that cannot be made.."know your material, know your tools".."head, hands and heart" etc.. Prevents one designing Chocolate teapots or bicycles for fish.. Anyway..since buying my 211U166a, I have been very thoroughly over it, tweaking, cleaning, oiling, it had only one lady owner from new ( but as Eric "gottaknow" said in another recent thread here, he does not allow machine operators to oil or tweak or generally "futz" with machines ..with good reason IMO ) the lady's boss had not allowed here to tweak etc, just sew..Then when she retired she bought the machine from her boss, ( he was closing down ) and she only knew to oil where the red marks are, luckily she did almost no sewing with it, maybe only 500 metres of polyester in 15 years ( I got a lot, 20 or so, of huge spools of polyester and nylon and poly cotton mix thrown, all in good condition, plus all the spare hooks and things that she did not know what they were for :)..I now know my 211U166a very well ( there are other "relatives" to it which are very similar )..I can reach out and touch it from where I'm typing this ..for the 3rd time.. Thus I know what to ask about that machine in particular, and what it can do, and some of the "gotchas" ( like the somewhat vague stitch length indicator system that one gets used to, but which I might "mod" on mine to make it easier to get exactly the stitch length I want each time I change it , one of Uwe's videos gave me an idea how it might be accomplished with the aid of a diamond tipped Dremel or a tiny set of hardened jewellers punches )..not an important "gotcha" on a 211, but to a "tinkerer" and "embellisher"..a "project" Ask me about another machine which I don't own or haven't touched in along time, I'd hesitate to answer, but I know what these can do.. The only thing that you mentioned that you might encounter difficulties with would be sewing deep moulded pouches ( a cylinder machine would be better for them) but, they can be done with a flat bed compound feed..for the rest of what you propose sewing, a 211u166 would work great..other opinions / posters ? re needing a servo motor straight away on that machine ( and thus bumping up the cost ) ..did you see the video I posted the URL to about speed reducers and clutch motors ? here it is "embedded" I'd be amazed if you need to go any slower than this ? When I was researching parts to make my speed reducer, I found that the pulleys and the bearings were cheaper and easier to come by in the UK than in France.. All the parts to make one should cost you no more than £40.00.. Fitting is really easy..exactly how they attach depends on the type of frame of your machine's supplied table..my table is on a "Z" frame, so I made a vertical sliding adjuster from steel stock and bolted it directly to the "Z" frame somewhat forward and in line with the pulley of the clutch motor ( thus my clutch motor doesn't "stick out the back of the table" ) ..my pulleys are 40mm on the drive shaft of the clutch motor, belt drive to the large 200mm pulley on the speed reducer, and the small pulley, 45mm on the speed reducer drives the original 75mm pulley on the 211 head..thus giving me a speed reduction of around 5:1 ..the original motor max speed is 1750 rpm, so my current max speed at the machine is 350 rpm, but with "feathering the clutch" and an extended to the left side of the pedal activating arm, and a "bungee cord" additional tensioner, and a block of dense foam under the pedal..I can easily run it at well under 60 stitches per minute..or as fast as I want up to 350.. Constabulary ( one of the actual experts here, and fellow sewing machine addict, with a penchant for rescuing cast iron ) had a contact for a guy that made him some "all in one" custom speed reducers for around €40.00 about a year ago, postage was around €10.00 to anywhere in Europe, maybe he can still get them for the same sort of price and maybe he would be willing to source one for you and send it ? If I were you, I'd convince your wife that you may as well get the right machine set up at the beginning..I can't see that you'll find a true compound feed walking foot on ebay or elsewhere for that kind of price, and as they are a dealer ( ebay says" they are a "business registration" ) you get all the usual legal UK and EU consumer rights and protections via the consumer legislation, whereas buying if buying on ebay or elsewhere from a private individual you have no redress if it stops working after 5 minutes..apart from the individuals ebay "rep"..and many private sellers don't care about their "rep", they can just re register in another name if it turns out that they are selling lemon after lemon.. Spotting a lemon in a private sale ( private individual seller ) from another country via the internet is not really feasible, you'd still be the one touching it and taking delivery, anyone here can advise a bit,( and the help and expertise here is amazing ) but we can't be in your eyes, ears, fingers etc, at the moment of payment you'd be on your own.. Me..I'd smile at your spouse and promise to do the dishes for a year and day, and then go for the machine that can do what you want from the man with the Punjabi accent..his accent took me back to when I lived in the UK ( lot of my mates had that accent )..in France I never hear it unless I'm phoning to Pakistan or India ( Punjab region of either )..and the phone lines are not very good or clear to that region of the world.. my 2cts

Paul..couldn't tell the motor type from the photos, so..I phoned them just now :).."asking for details for a friend" :) .. They are dealers, seem to know their stuff, helpful, friendly.. ( BTW ..yes it is the same as my machine ) They told me.. Currently has brand new clutch motor ( they can fit it with a small pulley* which will slow it down to "warp factor 2"..which is "a bit slower than light speed captain"..lumpendoodle can probably do a better "Scotty" impression than I can )..ducks and runs.. Or they can fit it with a servo motor for an additional £175.00 ( I think you can get them from College Sewing for a bit less and fit it yourself..not hard at all, hardest part would be squeezing yourself under the table to take off the clutch motor and fit the servo one..You and I are the same size, I slimmed down a bit, just a bit over 100kgs nowadays, and I'm 5 years older, but if I can twist around under a "K" Frame table to do stuff, so can most ) *You could maybe build speed reducer? as I did, then it will crawl along, and gain in "punch" although they already have a lot of "ooopmh" and can sew medium to heavy leather with lots of control..( they are not strong enough for saddlery work though, they will max out at around 3/8 thick veg tan ).. The 211 models come with two types of bobbin / hook assembly, normal and big..it has the "normal"..as does mine.. He can supply a big bobbin and hook machine for £699.00.. Servo motors have loads of "slow speed" control and are silent when you do not have your foot down ( and use less power on your leccy meter )..but a clutch motor with a speed reducer can go very slowly aswel .. re the price..I've seen them go for more than that in the UK..and have seen ones with bits missing and some "work needed" go for around that price.. In France they usually go for more than that..I was lucky ( and the seller was pressed for cash for a quick sale ) so I paid around half that price.. Cash is a great "discounter"..:) "Feed" relates to how the leather is fed through the machine to be sewn.. Have read of the thread by Wiz to understand the different types of "feed".. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/25239-the-type-of-sewing-machine-you-need-to-sew-leather/ 211U166 good all round machine..will do what you want a machine to do, later you'll want a cylinder model in order to be able to work close to the edge on bags etc..and then another machine to do.... and another to do .. :) Knew there was a video out there of a clutch motor with a speed reducer..the speed reducer is off the more complex type ( CowboyBob sells this sort ) but you don't need the "cage model" to be able to swing the machine back , "search "speed reducers leatherworker.net" with the quotes left on..you'll find many variants.. here is video of how slow they can go.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JhDkrURVPGw

Scotland is nice..used to drive around it a lot back in the late 70s and early 80s..had a friend who was a customs inspector of the distilleries, being diabetic he couldn't partake, so, I considered it my duty to help out ;)..My wife ( Breton ) always loves the look of Scotland on TV and in books, one day we may hire a camper ( RV ) and spend a month or so touring. Re "additional devices" A laser cutter would be nice ( and they are not to expensive, even for reasonable ones, a friend has one, great on leather ), but I first have to finish building the workshop where it ( and the various sewing machines currently dispersed around our house, and those yet to be bought/rescued ) are going to live..For that , it must not rain much this summer..Brittany coast, one of the rainiest parts of France, although not at the moment, we have no flooding, nor will we, 400 metres from cliff top, ( no erosion problems either )..I was reading about some embroidery machines ( the cheaper stuff, not the Melco ) overnight here, the software driven ones do seem to be somewhat temperamental even on woven textiles, i would like the kind of thing that wouldn't be dependent on the dealer's "service". Sewing machine dealers in France ( both of domestic and industrial machines ) are not renowned fro their "customer service" once the machine has gone out of the door and the cheque has been cashed ( and here you cannot do "charge backs" on credit or debit cards )..and they are even less helpful if the machine was not bought new from them, parts are horrendously expensive compared with the UK or USA.. Electronics in devices are all well and good if one can buy the parts oneself to repair/replace at a reasonable price..I'd be interested to hear more about either of the embroidery machines mentioned ( and drool over the Melco ) , I'd be embroidering 1 to 2 oz chrome tanned lambskin or goatskin..small pieces, nothing bigger than an A4 sheet of paper, and probably smaller than that..

It is walking foot..it is old.. thread about one here http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/68911-singer-153k101-not-sewing/ Eric , Wiz, or Shoepatcher et al ( or maybe Al ;) may be around, they know the animal..

The machine on Ebay is actually a GC0318-1 ..( blurry picture, but that is what it is ) http://www.highlead.co.uk/highlead-GC0318.html it is not a compound feed ( the needle does not feed ) but is a top and bottom feed ( I have an older Juki DLU 490-4 that is similar, top and bottom feed ) it will punch through the layers of leather that you need it to, but it is normally a garment machine that can do leather also ( but you won't have the control that you'd get with a compound feed machine )..That said if you are only feeding it 2 layers of leather ( like dog leads ) it would probably be OK ) wallets and bags, not so much.. it is more suited to upholstery ( sewing two pieces of leather together ) than complex multi layered stuff like bags and wallets.. But, if it runs and has nothing wrong with it the price seems good compared with the new price, you might be able to use it for a while and then "trade up" ( let it make you some money and then sell it for what you paid for it or maybe a little more, and then put the money to a compound feed machine ).. Why do they sell it ?.. Depends who you mean by "they".. Highlead sell it for textile and upholstery leather work, where stopping the various layers from shifting around is not so crucial.. The guy on Ebay is selling it for "whatever" reason.. Personally at that price I'd buy it and try to "get by" with it, and keep your eye out for a true "compound feed machine".. Which is what I did ..bought a Juki "top and bottom feed" ( which like the Highlead GC0318-1, can easily get through the thickness and feeds better than a bottom feed only machine ) and then watched the French equivalent of Craig's list ( "le bon coin" ) like, a hawk until I saw a good price on a compound feed machine ( Singer 211U166A )..and bought it too.. Now have another old one ( Singer 29K51 "patcher )..and a couple of heavy duty "domestic" manual machines ( Silver 4048D..you see them in a lot of tech' schools in the UK, good all round machine to learn on, easy to control and they have top and bottom feed , very useful for sewing lightweight leather like 1 to 2 oz lambskin and goatskin in up to 4 layers )..cost about as much as drop feed basic industrial with table and servo..equivalent to the Pfaff Select 4..or the Pfaff "Jeans" Machine..A friend in France recommended them to me as she used one , and a "compound feed Juki industrial" in her business making Medieval costumes and theatre costumes all year round..For a heavy domestic machine they are wonderfully versatile. Currently looking for a cylinder machine for heavier work, and a zig zag machine ( Singer 20U maybe ) or something that does 4 point zig zag and can also do straight stitch..and an embroidery machine.. I don't run "production"..just make designs and prototypes..but industrial sewing machines are fascinating and sort of addictive, ;) There is a video on youtube of the Highlead GC0318-1 here.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnWpCiQGe38 and if you copy and paste "Highlead gc0318-1" into your favourite search engine..you'll find more about the machine.. One thing..the clutch motor will go like a "bat out of hell", you'll either want to change it for a servo motor( much more control and slower speed ).. You can get one in the UK from College sewing..( search this site for Constabulary and College sewing servo motor, he has bought a few of them from there ) ..or, you'll want to make or buy a speed reducer..easy to do if you are handy and can get pulleys and bearing, shafts etc..again search this site for "speed reducers" ).. HTH :)..Mike On reflection..The Highlead GC0318-1, is probably a clone of a current , or recent Juki "something", so, someone else may have first hand knowledge of the "original".. Further searching finds it here http://www.sew-europe.co.uk/l1011_300.htm Where the description says "Top & Bottom Feed Walking Foot Lockstitch Machine which is best suited to medium weight work on PVC, LEATHER, CANVAS and other difficult to feed materials. Identical to the MITSUBISHI LY2-3300-BOB, PROTEX TY3300, WIMSEW 3300 JSM PF5318 and CONSEW 205RB Machines. " New price appears to be around £500.00 + VAT..so about £600.00 ( maybe you can claim back your VAT ? ) ..so the guy on Ebay is offering it at a 33% discount..is it still under guarantee ? will the guarantee transfer to you as the new owner ? ( ask Highlead , or whoever he bought it from, not him, he may not tell you the actual legal position about the guarantee as to if it is transferable or not, it has been nearly three decades since I was in the UK, I used to be a CAB Financial and consumer advice volunteer, but laws have no doubt changed since the 80's ) .. PS..that seweurope page also has a downloadable ( .pdf ) file for parts and user instructions..for that machine..worth your time to read it ..

I'm presuming that the "where", is from Darren :)..although shipping from Australia to Norway ( or France ) might make us wince a bit ;)

I agree with what Constabulary said..( read the threads he recommends and watch the videos ).. re the Highlead GC 3108 .. Highlead's site http://www.highlead.co.uk/products.html ( and search engines of your choice ; ) have no walking foot model by that number "Highlead GC 3108" That said..Highlead ( anything by them ) are very solid machines.. I've seen walking foot machines, ( I was looking during 2015, and was prepared to buy from the UK , DE, SP, IT, PL, BE, NE etc , and to import to France ) by Singer , Pfaff, Adler etc on dealers sites and UK ebay etc for within your budget / price range..

You are more than welcome Eric :)

Eric..it is available at this link.. http://www.supsew.com/search-results/?wpfb_s=Pfaff+342-6 or direct link to it as a.pdf http://www.supsew.com/download/Pfaff/Pfaff%20342-6.pdf Copy and paste that into your address bar( if it disappears before you get to it..I have downloaded it and can email it to you ..it is 3 megabytes form .pdf 3 languages French, English and Spanish ) HTH..:) Mike

Otherwise known as a Birmingham Screwdriver..or Bigomma.

Servicing costs depends where you are ( or if you can do your own ), and what parts cost where you are ?..and 1100 what? USD ? GBP *? Euros? Canadian Dollars? Australian dollars ? etc.. *Yes there are some people in the UK who make holsters..

I think that without the sensor ( that normally fits on the end of the driven shaft on the sewing machine head ) and the cable that connects it to the box via the black panel, where the plug sockets are on the control box ( below the word Singer ) you are going to have a very hard time getting the EPS to function, unless you have the missing parts ? and can set them up to a "point zero"..Plus..( thinking of another current thread where some of us are discussing EPS systems ) do you really need an EPS ?

Presumably an oil with a siccative ( drying action ) . That still keeps the soft touch of the textile. re warmth and waterproofing..Yes..:) I remember reading that contrary to popular opinion, the choices of textiles and methods of treatment and construction of garments and textiles and objects that would be considered "traditional" and "low tech" actually work better than many synthetics in a lot of applications..I know that in military clothing and hunter's clothing, the natural fibres ( with treatments such as wax and oil etc ) are warmer, more supple and importantly silent or at least very quiet, than their hundred percent waterproof synthetic competitors..and the natural fibres are so much more comfortable to wear.. A lot of "natural textiles" and "leathers" are ( IMO ) just as "hi-tech" ( if not even more hi-tech, when one thinks about what goes into their production, the knowledge and the techniques used to make them and then construct the garments or items ) than the "modern" synthetics that most people would think of as being "hi-tech"..We stand ( and sew ) upon the shoulders of some very intelligent and creative people..

Researching ( after reading this thread here ) "waxed cotton"..( actually I was researching "coton ciré", which in French usually means cotton impregnated with linseed oil rather than wax ) I came across this, which mentions puckering, and possible reasons / solutions for it. http://www.ventile.co.uk/specification.htmlx it was linked to from a French forum thread http://forum.davidmanise.com/index.php?topic=42391.0 that was discussing waterproofing and wicking properties of various textiles "natural" and "man made", ( including recycling old military tents amongst other things, for outdoor wear..

Any pics of what the inside of the box looks like ?..like any circuits, components or or transformers

Doing what to them ? Looks like Singer's version of the Stargate .) Steampunk's dream sewing machine :)

To find where it is sticking / rubbing..try putting a very thin coating of nail varnish ( thin with acetone ) or better still, if you have what I know as "engineer's blue" over the surfaces of the case assembly than is in contact with your machine..let it dry..place it in the machine , turn it once or twice by hand..where the varnish / blue is rubbed off..is where it is sticking..and that is where you ( very very carefully use your dremel and a set of polishing felt tips..with a fine cutting paste or jeweller's rouge..) ..might take a few polishes..a few careful polishes and trials is better than one big one which might be too much and remove too much metal..valve grinding paste is too coarse..but diamond paste or jeweller's or polishers paste will do..paint and paste works for a lot of things ;) wetting your finger tip and running it around the surfaces might also give you an idea where it is uneven..a burr you'll find by running a piece of silk over the surfaces, it will snag on the burr..so will a microfibre cloth..the link that you use for cleaning spectacles or eyeglasses.

Some EFKA EPS systems can be disabled and still use their clutch motor..I know, I have one on my Juki DLU 490-4 ..But it is one of the older EFKA systems..all of the "positioning features" have "on/off" switches on the control box that is part of the clutch motor assembly..You can leave the sensor head on the machine, but if you set all "needle positioning" features , including "automated backstitching" ( both are separate controls ) at the start and end of stitching, and all the "stop with needle up or down" switches to "off"..it sews just like a classical clutch motor..with one advantage..you can still use the pre-set speed controls and the speed variator screw on the EFKA box to run the machine slowly ( about 300 spm ).. The EFKA NPS box type is VARIOSTOP VD552.. I disabled all the NPS setting ( switched everything to "off" ) as soon as I was able to work out what each did.. I know that NPS can be useful in industrial high speed sewing production, but it is just another irritant, and makes for unwanted stitches in unwanted places in a non high speed industrial sewing setting..My Juki DLU 490-4 ( not normally used as a a "leather machine" ) also has automated thread cutting below the bed..or it did..I also removed the power to the solenoid that drives that..and removed the knife assembly, wiper assembly etc..Many thanks to Eric ( gottaknow ) for showing me a link to the operators manual for the machine itself via pm, it has differential upper and lower feed, useful for some things that I do, but without Eric's link it impossible to work out what did what in the settings for the top and bottom feeds.. When the EFKA unit dies ( which Eric says from my description of the noises it makes maybe soon ) I'll be replacing it with a servo motor and a speed reducer..or maybe fit it with the clutch motor from my Singer 211 ( came with it ) and the speed reducer 5:1 that I built which is currently powering that machine..and put the servo motor and another speed reducer on the Singer 211. Neither will have NPS..like Constabulary, I don't need NPS, nor do I need high speed, my machines are mostly for making prototypes which are then sent as samples to be made elsewhere in "production series runs" for us to import back ..<= the crazy reason for the "why" of this, I mentioned already in another post in another thread..