mikesc

BTW better to use a toothed belt with the smaller pulleys, the teeth allow the belt to conform to the smaller curve better, belt lasts longer, tensions are more even etc.

Wanted to add this as an "edit" to my last post, but the edit button is now not working for me , even with all scripts from leatherworker.net allowed, it opens , asks me for the edit reason, but gives me no ability to edit the post..another bug ? So.. despite the used ( and new ) machine market here being usually much more expensive than the USA, I have just noticed a machine , very like the "robin" but an original cast and wrought Iron machine by Adler ( I think it is ) for sale about 150 kms from me for €199.oo, seems in good condition, but having just bought a Singer29K51 "patcher" ( only one previous owner, a French shoemaker ) which is sitting in our lounge waiting for me to clean it up ( the lounge was only place I had left to put it, or any other machine for now, we've run out of space ) my wife is very understanding..so far ..and reading Constabulary's "sig" each day I couldn't pass by a 29K51patcher, that actually works, rescued cast iron eh..only paid €125.oo..usually they go for €500.oo..here at minimum, even when obviously missing parts or broken/damaged.. Where could I hide another shoe machine, even a cute curvy one.. and now the edit works again..go figure..gremlins ?

<slightly OT>Paypal doesn't accept accounts opened from Pakistan , the only Pakistani businesses who can accept paypal are those who have family outside of Pakistan , you send the money to their paypal account, and they forward it via bank transfer or western union to the business or person in Pakistan..Some of my designs are made for me in Pakistan ( Pakistan also makes a huge amount of apparel and other leather items for big internationally known brands that say made in USA or made in France etc ) mine say designed in France..Anything designed by me that is not made in France does not say made in France, but many designers and "manufacturers" around the world are not as scrupulous.. Some Pakistani leather work is very good, very high quality, very skilled workers, many of you are probably wearing or using Pakistani leather items daily, but they will be marked as made somewhere else, in many cases the "made in some other country" labels are sent separately to the items and are then sewn into the apparel or the items, in the country that receives them both by the supposed manufacturer..This kind of "deal" was offered to me by Pakistani manufacturers over 20 years ago, new ones offer me the same thing every month.. You buy a big name brand biker jacket for say $450.oo or a big name brand corset for say $350.oo..the cost price out of Pakistan is around $50.oo for the jacket and $35.oo ( or less ) on the corset..Chinese "leather" is usually not leather..usually PU..or is sold as "genuine artificial leather"..and is not stitched nearly as well as the Pakistani exports.. I'd rather make all the items that I design in France, but we actually pay far higher taxes on any profits on what we make here as artisans or manufacturers than we do on profits of things that are designed here and we have made abroad and then imported by us..raw materials, leather ( veg or chrome tan ) thread, lining fabrics, silk etc cost about the same here as elsewhere, machines ( new or used ) are much more expensive here, labour is also more expensive, but it is the higher taxes and charges on the profit of what we make here ( as opposed to what we have made elsewhere ) that are really ridiculous.. The fact that the big name brands manufacture abroad and sell as made in France ( same thing happens in the USA etc ) and make huge profits by lying about the true country of manufacture of what they sell also doesnt' help and small businesses or craft artisans anywhere.. </slightly OT>

I suspect that if there was a list for people who wanted to be apprenticed to Eric, it would be as long as the list of those who want to be apprentices at Hermes, and for the same reasons btw Wiz ..noticed it now says moderator next to your name .. extremely well merited IMHO, read everyone of your posts that I could before I ever signed up here..Thankyou ( and Johanna , and all the other mods and experts ) for all the advice and insights..

The smallest that you can find which will fit on the shaft..which will probably be a 40mm or a 45mm ..

Trox..I got your links to work..had to "allow scripting" from leatherworker.net and put the HTML tags on the links by hand..the link buttons seem to be buggy, the URL field in the form which opens up when the link button is used is not accepting input, it sits there stubbornly showing "example.com" and refusing any text input, but the text field does accept input..but the "embed" feature works..I could have embedded the video, but did not, instead linked to it.. HTH

link to page http://youtu.be/f-14mGByIzE

ps..love North Wales..know it well ..lived in Shropshire for many years, spent every possible moment in North Wales from 1970 onwards to 87..

Umm..that is the "Alien"..from the movies of the same name(s) featuring Sigourney Weaver.. https://www.sideshowtoy.com/collectibles/alien-alien-big-chap-sideshow-collectibles-2002331/ Predator is another character entirely..but who did feature in other movies , including a movie with the Alien.. https://www.sideshowtoy.com/collectibles/predator-scar-predator-hot-toys-902001/ I do hope your friend asked for "alien" and not "predator"..or they may be disappointed..

Yes, better without the sidebar ( although if it had more content ..down to the scroll limit..like maybe ads? it would not be so much of a "white space "that is wasted ) ..even on a desktop..( the "breakpoint" in the CSS must be in a weird place )..now is elegant as a swan. Given the "plate spinning act whilst on a trapeze" you have been doing..or "changing the transmission whilst the vehicle is still under power and rolling" ( pick a simili that you can identify with )..but to those who don't run dynamic websites, the leather lady ( bless her for making this place exist ) has been doing some complex stuff here ( big site, big database, and "live" user input ) and doing it very well, with only minimum shut down time..it aint easy.. Johanna.. You should award yourself a Saint-Nicholas-de-Bourgueil and some Leonidas ( it is the season of chocolate ..and real wine and real chocolate go well together ) while the old images populate..enjoy ( what would have been a holiday ) your work ( and that of others behind the scenes ) is very much appreciated.. Merci Bien

I'd edit that email addy out ( PM is the way to go ) before the spam bots get to it IIWY..else it will be spam on toast..

You are welcome..I was just on my way out when I noticed it

You might want to flip" those images to be the right way up, I expect you'll have more chances of getting replies from other than the antipodean members Edit..did it for you.HTH

Having seen how well Constabulary's idea of heat shrink tubing works, and how much less messy and simple it is than my idea of rubber solution boots, I am impressed ( by the lack of impressions on the veg tan ) and my hat is off

Dip the feet in a rubber type solution, that would give the feet little rubber "boots, which would still supply enough friction to "feed", but be smooth and mark less..Not knowing where you are I cannot recommend a specific product or brand as it may not be available where you are..But any elastomere or silicone rubber type solution ( two part pack ) or mono type should work, just use a transparent or non dark colour.. There may even be a product especially made for this ?

Speaking of the motor ( clutch type ), not only must it run, but some of them don't have any of the usual adjustments, despite being genuine clutch motors for sewing machines..It is very easy to switch it on, sew, test everything, buy the machine, get it home and then discover this lack of adjusters..I recently bought a singer 211u166a, runs great, only one old lady owner from new, always used for no heavier than 3 to 4 oz chrome tan garment leather..I looked it over carefully, test sewed etc, paid the lady and split the head from the table, put both in the car and brought it home and set it up.. Yesterday I set out to change the pulley for smaller one, ( the motor is a Singer clutch motor type 1135 , 370w, 1400rpm ) took off the old pulley ( 122mm, that is about a 5" ), discovered that the shaft is tapered like the EFKA variostop clutch motor on my Juki..So, I took the 45mm pulley off my Juki to see if it would fit, it does, great.. So, you're thinking, where is the problem ? I'm crouched down under the table, and suddenly , I think .."Where the **** is the belt tension adjustment bolt on this motor ?".. It doesn't have one, it isn't missing, or fallen off, it has absolutely no provision for one,never did, it fixes under the table like every other clutch industrial sewing machine motor I've ever seen, 3 bolts in the classic configuration, with the machine on a pivot bolt with it's axis parallel with the head ( I've seen a lot of machines for sewing textiles, not seen so many set up for leather ), but I've never seen a motor with no belt tension adjuster bolt bolt built on, nor any flange that says one was ever fitted, so no way to adjust any belt tension ( I can make something to do that easily enough ) but it is weird, and it totally escaped my attention when I bought the machine..It also has no way to adjust the "free play" before the clutch "bites", no adjustment bolt on the case to do that either.. Eventually it is going to get a servo motor, so it is no big deal..but it is weird, and because it ran quietly, and smoothly, I just took a quick look when buying it and went" Oh yeah, clutch motor" and never thought to confirm that it had a belt tension adjuster, or a clutch free play adjuster, because they all do..don't they..except when they don't Oh, and if the motor has been converted from 3 phase to run on single phase domestic electricity, make sure it has been done safely, my Juki when I bought it, was testimony to how "not to convert from 3 phase to single phase safely", it ran, but the person who had hacked the "conversion" together had no concept of earthing / grounding electrical machinery for safe use, some things you'd be best touching with only electrically insulated gloves, take one of those screwdrivers that tells you if there is current leakage with you, or a test meter, and make sure the "bargain" isn't going to bite you ( or worse ) before you sit down to test it. .

I'm certainly not "more experienced" compared to many ( allright ..almost everyone here ) here ..But I'd have thought that was a typo.. "heavy duty flatbed" ? Surely a "heavy duty cylinder arm" walking foot( punch through almost anything, and handle any shapes, and can have "table" added ) and a "medium weight flat bed"..walking foot.. ( for "garments" and simple "non enclosed" stuff like medium weight belts etc )..? How often would you need to punch through half to three quarters of and inch ( or more ) on a flatbed..? I run leather garments ( prototypes ) on flat beds ( one industrial compound feed, and one "heavy domestic double feed"..and another industrial flatbed doublefeed)..and am in the market for a heavy cylinder arm compound feed ( again for prototypes )..Plus..I just bought a patcher ( 29K51 ).. ( I blame Constabulary for the latter;) ) Just because..and it is the subliminal effect of reading his "sig"..or that is what I told my wife

<off topic> You are welcome Floyd.. ( btw..I'm Irish, but live in France,in the part that looks like Ireland, a 2 minute walk from the sea ) my wife is French. Info ( if you are in a windows machine ) to post a link in a comment.. 1.Go to the page that you want to link to..up top you'll see the "address bar" .the part with the website and page address.. 2.Move your mouse cursor to it.. 3.then make a click with the righthand mouse button..you'll get some options..choose "select all"..and left click on that option.. 4.then come back to here , the page where you are making your comment..( move the mouse cursor into the comment box where you want to make the link ).. 5.then click the righthand side mouse button...you'll get some other options..choose "paste"..and left click it.. 6.the link will get added as plain text.. 7.next hit the return key..or the "select" key.. 8.that will drop you down to a new line..you can carry on typing on the new line But..when you click the "post" button below the comment box.. your link will get converted..and will show up in blue and be a "clickable link".. Works the same way for linux ( which I'm using ).. Mac..one of the rich folks will know </off topic>

Wizcrafts...I think it might be the same machine ( Adler 4-4 ) that bex DK is talking about in this other current thread here ?.. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=69053 The feet in the photo from bex DK look the same as the feet on the Adler 4 4 on this page.. http://www.sk-messer.de/ledernaemaschinen.htm next to last image on the page..

brmax..is this your link ? http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/212g-140-singer-235389.html

Search using any search engine for "industrial sewing machine feet leather".. leave off the quote marks, otherwise Google etc will try to match that exact search "string" of words .. Don't just search this forum...there may not be many pages here with that search string on the page.. But..that said ... First result of that search in Google will be from here .. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 But the other results on that search "string" will help.. Note..unless you use the word industrial in your search and also the word leather..you'll get myriads of results for domestic sewing machines ( hence all the "teflon" ) and loads of results for industrial machines that are used for textile garment sewing. Usually the feet ( there are various varieties, depending on what they are used for ) you will want will be smooth on their base ( not with teeth ) so as to not mark the leather..especially if you are sewing "veg tan" which marks more easily than "chrome tan"..chrome tan can still be marked by feet with teeth though .

If everything is getting "scratchy", and it is jamming , don't force it.. As I said , I'm not a sewing machine expert ( I'd count Constabulary amongst those who are, and Eric, who joined in while I was typing ) , but, from your description of what you did, you have introduced too many variables at once ( general rule when dealing with machinery, or most things for that matter ) - "only change one thing at a time".. Something I did learn while setting up another machine I bought ( whose timing was waaaay off ) was that a needle that hits into the hook can do a lot of damage ( it's previous owner tried needles that were too long )..I broke off around a centimetre from a needle that was the correct size ( so it was now waaay too short ), and the needle couldn't hit the hook and leave nicks and scratches, and then turned it all over by hand, until everything was doing more or less what it should ( feeding etc ..this was on a top and bottom feed juki, not a compound "needle feed" machine ) at the times that it should..then I put in a full length correct needle..and did final timing adjustments, again turning by hand.. First powered run showed me that I still had some nicks and scratches left over..( loud "snicketty", "snappetty" noises as the top thread went around the hook ) so , polished some more, now it sews.

If it isn't feeding, are the feet and the feed dogs moving ? I'm definitely not an expert ( one of the resident experts will hopefully know exactly what is wrong ), but I bought a 211U166A about 15 days ago ( or it might be a 211U166, hard to tell, but mine has a max stitch length of 5mm, so I think it is the 211U166A ),..got all the same manuals and watched all the same videos "One careful lady owner since new", she used to sew made to measure leather jackets in a small French boutique, ( they had a mechanic for their 3 machines, the operators were not allowed to adjust anything, the lady didn't even know how to adjust the stitch length, nor that she had been sewing all the time with a broken off middle foot, the mechanic told her the foot was short, so as "to be able to see what you were doing when turning corners or backstitching". Slightly different body to your model, but I can take a movie of what it is doing ( it works very well ) if you can tell me what area you need to see. Mine has the metallic brown body, with the big horizontal panel on the front in black, white and beige , but it just says Singer 211 , no specific model number, took me a while to find which model it was, Singer made some with the exact model number marked after where it says 211 and some with nothing at all marked after 211 ..Serial number marked on the back U844311020 and "made in Japan". Small bobbin. Nice restoration there

IMHO, insulting a respected moderator and expert, because the advice they give you doesn't come with a special snowflake cherry on top isn't the way to learn ..IIWY..I'd put down the spade and quit digging.. Advice here from the experts is freely given and IME worth it's weight in gold..the humour is a plus.. Take a break, walk the dog, go to the beach, and when calmed down, read the thread again and hopefully you'll see..

Someone posted this website address in a thread I was reading during the last week ,when "catching up" on threads in 2015.. Think this is what you mean .. https://www.t-molding.com/ HTH Mike