Bob

I am used to the Jolly knives, cause thats most all I've ever had. The other reason is they're not too thick. I've seen some knives are thick as a hoe. It takes three days of grinding to get where it'll cut good. Any contact information of anybody that makes good knives would be appreciated. Bob

Has anyone seen this before or have any comments about it? Bob http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...ME:B:EF:US:1123

Years ago I had the opportunity to purchase 4 knives. They have JR stamped on them. The steel is exceptionally good, at least I like them. I'd like to get some more and know not where to find the maker. Can anyone help with contact information. I believe he called himself Jolly knives. The memory don't work as well anymore, help with this would be appreciated. Much thanks Bob Goudreault Kamloops Saddlery

JR, this work is not only "NICE", it's world class workmanship... I can only look with awe.... Nice to have you here showing your work. Bob

Dave, what works well here is "Puck board" it comes in a 4x8 sheet and is available in various thicknesses. It's cheap too. I've been using it for years and it lasts along time. The head knife doesn't dull using it or dig into it much making it hard to push. Google search for it to find a supplier in your area. It shouldn't cost more than 50 bucks a sheet. Bob

LOLOL I'm sorry for laughing, but thats just soooo funny. Goes to show you guys how much water there really is in leather... makes one stop and think about all the water proofing crap people put on veg tan leather and think it's good for their saddles..... Bobcat

Freak, are those Colt Walkers? One of my customers uses Colt Walkers and I made holsters for those monsters. He said Clint used guns like this. I forget which movie he said... Nice Work Freak... nice color too bobcat

Tex, it's been my experience too. What I ended up doing is using a "Frieght forwarding" Company. It cost about 200 bucks to ship a saddle to Germany from Vancouver BC, by airplane. It was there in a couple days for pickup. Frieght forwarding companies ship for other companies. Keep in mind that you will want to package things well and small as possible. They charge for the cubic size and weight... They don't deliver to customer door, I don't think so. Things need to be picked up at the nearest airport. I hope that helps you. Bob Goudreault kamloops saddlery

Skip, I use an Atom clicker. Another good clicker is made by USM, many of them have a 24" head also. You can purchase these for 2500 or less. There's really nothing that can go wrong with them. Short of an electric motor and oil pump. Many of them used to be used in shoe factories on the east coast, once the asian market started to get the most of the shoe market, it put those factories out of business... However, many of there clickers are wired for 3 phase. You can convert them to 220 with a simple unit on the side. Try to find one thats already been converted. Save yourself some trouble. Bob

Well I use a clicker alot for production parts. Not only saddle parts. Bridles, chaps parts, spur straps, hobble straps and so on. It's a 20 ton, my recommendation would be nothing less than 20 ton, 25 is better. That being said, they extremely heavy, you certainly can't go down to the store and throw in it the truck... it weights 2-3000 lbs. Furthermore, you will require a cement floor to set it on. What I've done is made a steel dolly with 6 heavy duty wheels, sets it 6 inches higher than normal. A pallet to stand on gets you back to the proper height for working... Would I sell it? Never, I'd may only sell it to buy a bigger one. The head is only 16 inches wide. You see, once you own one of these things. You'll find there's many things you can use it for. Saddle fenders will require a big head to do it one pass. Once you start hitting it twice to cut out bigger parts than the head can do, then you will find you bend the dies. Thats costly when you have to replace dies. I wouldn't use a manual car jack type press. Not when you can get a clicker for 1500-2500 bucks. Clickers are a handy unit to have in the shop. The maker stamp I use is 1 3/8" x 2 1/4" and I was killing my shoulder hitting it, until I started using the clicker.... it makes perfect wacks everytime, and it doesn't make the stamp bounce. As some of you may know, will ruin your project. bob

I don't know anything about the artisons or aldler machines you all mentioned, cause I never used one.... This pro 2000 from Ferdco was reworked at new. They also shortened the needle bar, making it sew thicker material as well. This machine sews 1 inch if i asked it to. Sure you must have the correct sized needle and thread for that job. bobcat

This pro 2000 I have has a center walking foot with a hole as well. Thats not what I'm talking about. The needle guide I'm referring to is underneat the plate and bolts into place where the feed dogs were. I don't have any problems with missing stitches. I can use a heavy needle and reline skirts that are twisted and sew in the same holes at warp speed, (with a reducer) and don't miss stitches or break needles. No troubles at all. For my money, I'm happy as a pig in poop with this machine. Won't trade it for nothing. bobcat

I broke too many needles with that @#$%^ needle guide. It would forever work itself loose, so I toke it out and no more problems... Bob

I knew it had to be something, a logical explaination like that makes it all clear. Your so cleaver Johanna, you get a gold star... bob

well for my two bits worth.... I bought a Ferdco pro 2000 about 14 years ago, the feed dogs were taken out on this model. Ferdco reworked the 441 juki head. The feed dogs were replace with a needle guide. Which I simply removed. This machine sews it all quite nicely. It's really hard to beat for versatillity... Bob

Johanna, tonight the server wouldn't let me move around... the message was something like "the bandwidth was exceeded" about two hours ago. It works now ofcourse... Just letting you know... Sure am thankful the board is up and workin again. Thanks Bob

It's so funny, we've all come to love this forum. Truth is it's lots of fun. I find myself checking for new posts several times a day when I should be workin'. The wife says, "You're addicted to that now", whats she know anyway.... :angel_not: Special thanks to Johanna and the team who work so hard to make this all happen. I didn't realize how much work is involved until something goes wrong like the server crash. The very least I can do is encourage everyone who uses this board to support it. Just so the funds are there to have a good server that can handle the traffic... well enough said.... This is a great spot to learn from others in the leather industry, to make great friends and encourage one another.. Bob

Today I phoned Herb Bork and behold he makes these "J" rigging plates... Thanks everyone Bob

I have a clicker and wonder what I'd do without it. It gets used for lots of small things I don't like to cut by hand. Chap parts, latigo hangers, coasters cut from scrap leather (customers love it) spur straps, just to name a few things. my two cents worth on that issue Bob Goudreault Kamloops Saddlery

I agree, dying leather is a messy business. I only do it when I have to. I dye the parts separately. Before you oil and after you stamp the leather. If you use oil dye, thats the best. Because you'll have much more success in getting it even, then when you apply neatsfoot oil, it will help even the color also. Make sure that your leather is dry not damp after stamping. This makes a difference only if you want consistant color with all the other parts. One more thing you may want to keep in mind, it'll take some experimenting. I've been thinking of doing this and not sure about the mixture. But you can mix the oil dye with the pure neatsfoot oil and do it all in one step. Again, I would do it after cutting the parts out. That way you don't have to get out the rubber gloves again to dye the edges. Best regards Bob Goudreault Kamloops Saddlery

Anybody know where I can get a couple pairs of Stainless Steel inskirt riggings that will fit in the butterfly type skirts? Some call them "J" type riggings, some say they're "C" riggings. They are shaped like a J because one side is higher than the other. Nobody I know sells these, even though some of the bigger production saddle companies use these on their saddles. I'm hoping that some of you will know where I can get a couple pairs. Bob Goudreault Kamloops Saddlery

Elton, I agree with Art. The bottom tension spring may be setup too tight. Or try giving the top thread an extra wrap around the tension bar, two wraps should do, this also should give a tighter stitch also. Hope this helps you out. PS, I'm from Whitecourt Alberta....

Elton, I agree with Art. The bottom tension spring may be setup too tight. Or try giving the top thread an extra wrap around the tension bar, two wraps should do, this also should give a tighter stitch also. Hope this helps you out. PS, I'm from Whitecourt Alberta....