Tina

I did some blue markings on your picture...Just take out your scalpel/knife and cut, then put the piece in opposite hole like a zipper function. I hope this makes sense :-)

Here's a duo-picture of some work I've made with just Hi-Liter in the groves, just to give you an idea :-)

The option is to use Fiebings Hi-Liter...It just put black in the groves/tooled areas without staining the rest of the leather. You will still need a resist :-)

Love your eye for details...and the paintjob is superb, a real pro.

Before I had an airgun I use to do it by hand. You delute your "outer edge" dye to around 25/75 or more, then just built it up layer by layer. It's time consuming but worth it. Make sure you're not in a hurry, take your time and let it dry between the layers so you keep control over the process.

I think you might be after that bright yellow that makes the pattern? Most dyes I know of need some clear mix, a deluter solvent is your best friend when using dyes. If the yellow (any color) is to dark, delute it until you're happy. I guess with Eco you use water, with Fiebing use denature alcohol etc. With my Angelus yellow dye I delute it at least 50/50 to get that bright yellow, make some test pieces on the side but make sure to let it dry (hair dryer makes it quick) before deciding if you're on the right track :-) I enclose a picture that I have shown many times before (a picture says more than a thousand words) it explans so good what a deluter really can do for you when dying...This is made with Angelus light blue and light pink + some alcohol, going from undeluted to a mix maybe around 10/90 or so.

I use an old (big, around 5'x3') glass tabletop to cover my dye bench. It's super easy to clean from any dye, paint or glue. To clean up any dried glue and paint I just use an old razorblade or the kind you get for the glass stowe tops is great for this, the dye comes of with just some spirits.

I could not find the basket weave piece, but I did find another test piece with loads of impressions in the leather....

You're more than welcome :-) If you want to be a bit adventures...You can mix any acryllic paint color with an "extender medium" and make your own "antiquing". I made a white paste on a black basket weave pattern, just put on and whipe it right off with a damp cloth. I can take a picture of it tomorrow if there's any interest.

Thanks a load :-) I use Angelus Acrylic Finisher (and dyes), and I do get it from the link above. Yes, I use an acryllic paint, one of the better ones (American something) in 2 oz bottles (?) from Joanns will work just fine :-) Paint thinn layers with the paint and several layers until you're happy, way better than one or two thick layers.

"Resist", any clear topcoat, example Super sheen, Angelus acryllic finisher, Resolene, Bag kote, Tan kote...I'm sure there is more. I use the old Tandy antiquing and I have no idea how the new one works...This is a link to another similar topic I'm in with some more answeres for you :-) http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52106&hl= The Hi-Liter does not put an extra tint to your white...Antiquing will.

As said... first you need to put on a resist, I use 2 layers. One important step to avoid striking is to let it dry properly, at least a day (+24 hours) or so. Then, if you like the effect that antiquing makes with the black in all cuts etc. but do not want the coloring from ordinary antiquing get the Hi-Liter from Fiebing.

Well, here's how I do it... I paint the skull/bones with a white/off white color and then put on a resist of 2 layers. It's important to let the resist dry for a day or so. Then I use the old Tandy antiquing medium brown (it might work with the new from Tandy or other brands???). The longer you let the antiquing sit, the darker the white will go. If you like the effect that antiquing makes with the black in all cuts etc. but do not want the coloring from this type of antiquing, then get the Hi-Liter from the Fiebing brand. Follow the same steps as above. Here's some example from what I've made :-)

In one word, no. Most of my use of the dye is small/er details, I simply poor some dye in one ens of a plastic coated paper plate and some deluter at the other end. I blend as I go along somewhere in the middle, sometimes 10-1, sometimes 1-10 and everything in between. If I need to blend then a second/third color goes on the plate too...I use very small amounts at a time. My best advice is to make several layers ontop of each other until you're happy (let dry in between) This is the way to get "most control" over the dying process and the biggest chans to be very happy with the end result. If you use a color a lot, mix your own and keep it in a glass jar for easy access :-)

I have used the Winsor/Newton one on manny projects but never seen any discoloration att all, natural leather still looks natural after peeling it away :-) I use the yellow one cuz it's easier to see when removing it. Good Luck to you :-)

Angelus dyes is very pigment strong dyes...Get some deluter (like denatures alcohol), you'll need it :-) Also small glass bottles for all those mixes that you make on your own...

Or...If you think $16 is a wee to much, here's what I use for around $8: http://www.misterart.com/painting/fb~winsor-newton~/winsor-newton-art-masking-fluid.html ...or another brand (I have not tried this one) for around $7: http://www.misterart.com/painting/watercolors/pebeo-drawing-gum.html I also use it in 2 or 3 layers.

Where can I start? Real dye penetrates the leather (all the way if you like) and when stretching you do not get this bad side effect that you're experience. In my oppinion I think it's a shame to call the product a dye, it's basicly an acryllic paint and only sits on the surface, that's why you get the lighter areas when bending or stretching. You will get the same type product if you take an acryllic paint (artist quallity for the amount of pigments) and delute it with water, it just sits on the surface. Why not try the good real dyes that you can easily find in your part of the world, you'll notice a huge difference, 2 brands that comes in mind is Angelus and Fiebing, both spirit based...Good Luck :-)

7-9 oz, makes it not so flimsy....:-)

I'm so happy for you and I believe you'll love it just as much as I do, Congrats

I buy stuff from this place in Denmark, they have I think a really OK selection of exotic leathers: http://www.laederiet.dk/produkter/vistyper_engelsk.asp?id=23&Uid=113

Beautiful as always

I know, I had to pay an aditional $20 in fees for the tools but worth every penny :-)

Personally I would look up Barry King's tools instead, they're made for Sheridan style tooling: http://www.barrykingtools.com/index.htm

I will keep that in mind :-)