Tina

Perfect :-) The posters all comes with a number so it's easy to figur out which. I hope you're going to Love the book as much as I do, I just know I'll keep it forever.

Super, I'm very happy for you and welcome to the "club of ownership" :-)

I found a very nice tutorial that'll work for what I had in mind: http://artbeadscene.blogspot.se/2012/02/free-tutorial-sliding-knot-adjustable.html I hope this will help someone else :-)

Thanks a load both :-) I'll check these out and lets hope I can make it work//Tina

I'm making some leather jewelry and more for veterinary cost to a non profit organization and I need help with an adjustable knot/closure for these items. I enclose a picture collage of what I had in mind. I’ll be ever so grateful for any help in this matter//Tina

As said earlier...I will not share this book, and for no other reason than keeping the value of the book for the future. When making searhes online it seams like there's just a few, handful of them out there in the whole world. I've only found one full copy of it (48 posters), one with 34 posters and mine with 46 posters...(maybe I'm a bad searcher *S*?)

Timestrap...IMO, maybe people with a machine is just to lacy to handstich? sheathmaker...just had to jump in here. The stiching, hand or machine will never be better than the quallity of the thread. Now with that said there's also the difference in how the stiches are made and here I'm just talking about the technique differences between them both, not someones individual skills in handsewing. A pictures says a thousen words :-)

Hi Aeron. I decided not to do a digital copy of this book, once it's done you can never go back and it will probably spread like a wildfire. Not only is the patterns beautiful but I also think the rarity of the book absolutly adds to the interest. As one of the owners of a copy it would be in my interest to keep the value, with a digital copy "out there"...Well, you do the math :-) I hope you'll understand and I wish that you can find your copy with as much luck as I did//Tina

The tools looks good but...Any user of the Internet knowes that using Western Union is potentially a scam and not the way to do business. Bank transfer is the same risk with over seas transactions. Personally I would never do business with you the way you have it set up for the moment, my suggestion is that you get a PayPal account where I also could use my credit card.

This place will ship the dyes outside US (only a few products will not be shipped overseas, mostly spraycans and likes, see shipping restriction page) http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html

Angelus has a purple that keeps getting darker for every layer you put on :-)

Well, many here including myself would say you're crazy to use their "waterdye/stain". These things is nothing else in my book but deluted acrylic paint to explain it simply. These "dyes" do not penetrate the leather, just sits on the surface and it really does not look that good either. You can use Fiebing's oil dye or Angelus spirit dye (and put a coat of neatsfoot oil after). These procucts will penetrate deeply into the leather, not just sit on the top of it, you will still be seeing the beautiful natural grain and surface of the leather (if it's not to dark of course). Good Luck with your project

I did an experiment some 5 years ago with artist oil paint (Talens "Rembrandt") and had no problems at all with a sticky surface. My experience with oil on canvas was to leave it to dry around 5 weeks so I did a similar timeframe for the leather. I then sealed it with Angelus acryllic finisher and it worked beautifully. My oilpaint is quite "oily" in itself so I did take some out by having the paint on paper towels and more used a "dry brush" technique painting the motif. I did not use oil as a medium but artist terpentine (small amounts). After the drying persiod I added some pure neatsfoot oil, a few more days of drying then the sealer. I have to say that this is the most beautiful "painting paint" I have done on leather, it's way more interesting to look at than the ones painted with acryllic paint. Here's the old piece today... Ps . The white in the background is acryllic paint, I think it showes.

I have both python and rattlesnake at home. When I don't want to use the natural color of it I dye it with Angelus leather dyes. Cerstain colors will work much better than others. I then rejuvenate the leather with pure neatsfoot oil and then seal it with Angelus acryllic sealer.

http://www.turtlefeathers.net/ try this one :-)

Here's a picture of a map I dyed with Angelus yellow spirit dye (old map of Sweden). What I do is I delute the dye and then "paint" layer by layer until I'm happy.

Think how it would be to wear the corset. The pointier and longer the bottom part is the harder it will be to do anything but standing. If you like the wavy like the black, draw your own and for commfort I would make it a wee shorter in the mid front at least or... Make sure the busk don't go all the way down (not beond the point of: top of the pelvic bone + 1/4 - 1/2 inch or so up).

Thank you all for looking and comments :-) I just thought it would be fun looking at something with a materialmix that isn't common. I have made a few of them but unlucky me had a computercrash and I lost tooooo manny photos than I care to count...I even had to nick photos from my old website (= smaller) to get some back, not fun. I've been following this post and would like to give some hinters from my rather long time as a maker of corsets. To use multiple layers of fabric is OK, but what you use is more important then how many. One of them needs to be a fabric that don't give any movements at all. When I made corsets I used: 1 layer that you see...In the picture = leather and silk. 1 layer of coutil. I know, it's expensive but if you put down the work, make sure it comes out the best it can be. 2 layers of 100% cotton fabric. These layers is the closest to the body = nice to wear :-) 1 "layer" of reinforcement band (1" to 1 1/4" wide) around the waistline, this is most important the keep the waist shape. I usually sew this to the lining layers. If you have any questions...Just ask here :-)

You like leather guys? How about leather and chineese silk? Just one I made a few years ago, it's laced both back and front, easier to to dress yourself (customer request).

You measure the length of the bottom parts stem and the diameter of the hat part :-)

There's a bunch of them at Ebay at this moment, $14.99-18.99 each. ( http://www.ebay.com/..._nkw=kelly tool ) If I look at the sellers history he seams to sell them too...I hope this will help you some :-)

You can use metalic acryllic paint ( ex. http://www.joann.com/folkart-metallic-acrylic-paint-2-oz-/prd2196/ ) and then mix it with ( http://www.joann.com/folkart-extender-2-oz/prd10149/ ) to keep the paint "open" longer. This is how I use the white as an antique paste, it should work just as fine for the metallic colors :-)

Kind'a cool :-) But as a logo is way to busy with way to many details. The image could never be reproduced for a logo stamp for example in a size that works for your leather goods. It needs to be simplified, think "less is more". This image could be very cool on a webpage though

The Angelus pink spirit dye is actually really good, I enclose a quick dyechart I did a few years ago, it goes from totally undeluted to way more than 50% deluted in the picture :-)

Många Tack granne...Kul att hitta fler nordbor här Scorpionhalsbandet hamnade i just Norge, small world :-)