YinTx

While you wait...

Elizabeth, Thanks for the compliment. Since this was just supposed to be a "prototype" I used some 5 oz tandy leather I had. The liner is pig suede, and the thread is white Coats Barbour Linen 25/3. I'll probably like it well enough to use it myself, and wish I had used my Hermann Oak or Wickett and Craig leather. YinTx

Freakin awesome. Thanks for breaking all the rules. Now we can move on, tooling in freedom. YinTx

Lol. "TIS BUT A FLESH WOUND! " I was just thinking this morning as I was reading Cary Shwarz' blog, and he was discussing donating blood as it relates to leather work, and counting my blessings that I hadn't had a run in with the awl for more than a year. That was short lived! Keep safe out there, ya'll! YinTx

Yah, the 441 has me perplexed, so it sits waiting to get tuned by someone in the know. It stitches, but not up to my expectations. Perhaps they are to high. I told my little fish to cover his eyes, no gawpin and grinnin at me when I'm cussin and discussin with my leather works! YinTx

I was actually quite impressed you were able to keep it straight after going around the lettering. I manage to botch that on a regular basis. Nicely done! YinTx

The wait may be a bit longer all of a sudden. It would appear that my opposing digit and my awl are both concurrently out of commission. It seems while I was finishing the final stitches on this project: unbeknownst to me, the awl decided to mysteriously - and generously - insert itself into my right thumb. When moving to make the next stitch, the awl was violently flung from my hand, removed itself from the thumb, and bounced along the tile floor. Thankfully it chose the floor and not my leg or foot for it's landing. After I stemmed the tide of red that was leaving dots all over said tile, I retrieved the awl, cleaned it and noted the dinked point. I swear my fish knows how to laugh, because he saw the whole event and still had a sheepish grin when I returned to the room to clean the floor. So, while the bag itself has a nice wine tone hue, the thread is white, and I'd like to keep it that way on this project, so I'll have to wait until my thumb is a bit less tender, and the awl has been reshaped. Since I still haven't quite figured out how the awl and my right thumb managed to occupy the same space in time, as I was stitching with the awl in my right hand, I have a degree of fear that I may repeat the error. Hopefully not any time soon. YinTx

This leather has been sold. YinTx

Those are some tiny details. Nicely done! YinTx

Hello indeed. Beautiful craftsmanship as always, really enjoy seeing your finished works. Something for me to aspire to! YinTx

You might go through a few bags of popcorn before I finish that last section of stitching! But I'll post a few pics as I go... YinTx

I've only carved and tooled three things so far... only thing I've understood is that there are no set rules, so if you like em, keep em. I think it looks good. YinTx

I say it rocks. Your decorative cuts stand out as your own style already. Stitching is pretty good too. Just trim/melt that thread hanging out and you have a perfect project! YinTx

I've been cogitating on this off and on for a year or so. Finally decided on altering the design put forth by Anderson Leather - many thanks to him for sharing the process and a base template. I altered it significantly, making it much larger than the one in the template. I had originally decided to do it as a prototype, but as it started to turn out nice enough, I decided to go with a liner, since he had indicated that was his one regret with the one he made: not putting in a liner. Of course, putting a liner in as an after thought has compromised the edge work, but it is what it is. Open to comments as I progress! YinTx

Awesome. I like the color combos. Looks well designed and made! YinTx

I have only been using one product at a time as a resist. Either I use: Angelus Acrylic or Tan Kote or Clear Lac. As you can see at the beginning of this effort, i was not able to get resist to do anything, antique just stuck to it. Folks recommended Clear Lac. Now I can't get the antique to do its job through the resist - works really good as a resist. So now I've got to do some experimenting with how to use the stuff. Eco Flow products and the Angelus products are the only ones that seem to be working for me at all. Fiebing's for me has been a complete failure. I've had Eco Flow items in daily use with no issues at all. Same with the Angelus dye, Acrylic resist and Antique. Worked fine once I figured them out. These dyes work nothing like the spirit based dyes. I believe the same will be true for the Fiebing's - they'll work fine once I figure them out. Tom, I'll try your approach with the gel antique, to see if I can get a lighter color out of it. I'm not sure how to go about applying Clear Lac to the top bit of every basket weave stamp and make sure it doesn't get in the crevices, so the antique only works in the crevices of the stamped mark. Seems a bit extreme to me, and if that's how its done, I've gotta find a different product to use, because that would be a colossal waste of time. And how do you apply it to the entire surface area but not let it get into stamped lettering? Every video I see shows folks wiping the stuff on the entire surface of the project, letting it dry, then smearing on the antique, everything comes out beautiful after wiping it off. If I seem frustrated, please don't take it personally. I just am, and with everyone's input, the eureka moment will come! YinTx

I think I am not understanding everything put before me well enough to apply the knowledge. And I am not being clear about what I have done. The dye was put on the body of the project before oiling and clear lac. Should not be a surprise, as it is not uncommon. Weaver Leather shows a video where they put red dye on before antique. Al Stohlman's Coloring Leather book discusses dying leather before antique. I'm not breaking any new ground or rules here. Pear shaded areas on my current project burnished fine, and also were done using textured tools, not smooth. Every step I allow 8 to 24 hours to dry, even though I see folks waiting only 30 minutes or less at times. The red piece above was dyed and Clear-Lac'd weeks ago. Although the image does not show it, I was using sheeps wool. I always see folks put resist on the entire piece, even the Kieth Valley video recommended in this thread, he says he applied resist (Clear Lac) over the entire piece before antique paste. I am beginning to think I am putting my resist on too thick: both the Clear Lac and the Tan Kote, which is why I am not getting the results I expect. It appears to me I am putting on less than what I see in the examples, but I could be wrong. Every one says "get it on there good, you need a solid coat. You may have to put it on twice." My clear lac is reduced 50% with thinner, and one coat. Still everything wipes off too well. I suppose all I can do is experiment some more. I have tried it with no resist, and it looks like I dipped the thing in a bucket of muddy oil. Not pretty at all, and no degree of buffing helped. Did the Eco Flow Gel Antique with no resist, and it came out so dark you couldn't see the tooling. Perhaps a bunch of coasters where I do things 20 different ways and see which one looks best! Was just hoping not to have to go the route of experimentation and discovery when there are over 100 years of folks doing the same before me. YinTx

I only knew him briefly, and as soon as I knew him, he immediately struck me as the type of person I would enjoy spending time with. I sincerely wish I had met him much sooner. My condolences to his family and friends as well. YinTx

Terry, I gave the wool technique a try today, no luck. I had a piece of leather I was trying out various stamps, borders, etc. on that had been dyed red then coated with clear lac. Put the Fiebing's paste on, waited a few minutes, then wiped it *lightly* ONE time. Absolutely no antique left, completely pulled it all out. Here is the result: Another project I was working on today the leather turned darker brown, but nothing stuck in the pear shaded areas on petals and leaves. Only place that seemed to have antique left was where I had made decorative cuts. I am again at a point of frustration. YinTx

Depends... what are you using it on? YinTx

Terry, I did just wipe with a paper towel after applying the antique. However, when I wiped the first time, it all came off, so I had to re apply and be careful about not pulling it out of the lettering and borders. Second piece, I let it set for a while and dry before wiping, hoping more of it would stay down. That helped with the contrast, but not with the streaking. I have seen the Keith Valley video last year sometime I think, so thanks for the reminder. After watching again, it looks like he really works the antique into the leather, not just wiping it on like so many others show. Perhaps that is my issue, so I'll try again. He also uses Tan Kote. Oddly enough as you mention, it looks like he puts another coat of Neat Lac on TOP of the Tan Kote. He also mentions a book, "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bob Likewise, so I'll see if it has any good info in it to help me out. YinTx

So I've been using Clear Lac with some success as a resist, thanks to everyone's input. Many many thanks. Now my issue is the topcoat. Tan-kote does not work, despite all the instructions from so many sources saying to apply Tan-Kote over Fiebing's Paste Antique. (Alden's School of Leather Trades, Bruce Cheaney, Jim Linnell, The Leather Crafter's Bible, Al Stohlman's "Coloring Leather," the list goes on and on). I find it just flakes off after it dries and looks terrible. This happened to the large basketweave stamped project above. So I tried to use the Clear Lac as a top coat (also suggested in the book "Coloring Leather"). No flaking, and it seals just fine, but it pulls up the antique and makes a streaky mess. This is a photo of a binder cover my little one is trying to make, and I've ruined it by applying the Clear Lac top coat. Now I've started Sheridan carving, I'm going to need a good way to do this without streaking, peeling, flaking, cracking, etc. Perhaps it is my method of application? Suggestions? YinTx