YinTx

I have only been using one product at a time as a resist. Either I use: Angelus Acrylic or Tan Kote or Clear Lac. As you can see at the beginning of this effort, i was not able to get resist to do anything, antique just stuck to it. Folks recommended Clear Lac. Now I can't get the antique to do its job through the resist - works really good as a resist. So now I've got to do some experimenting with how to use the stuff. Eco Flow products and the Angelus products are the only ones that seem to be working for me at all. Fiebing's for me has been a complete failure. I've had Eco Flow items in daily use with no issues at all. Same with the Angelus dye, Acrylic resist and Antique. Worked fine once I figured them out. These dyes work nothing like the spirit based dyes. I believe the same will be true for the Fiebing's - they'll work fine once I figure them out. Tom, I'll try your approach with the gel antique, to see if I can get a lighter color out of it. I'm not sure how to go about applying Clear Lac to the top bit of every basket weave stamp and make sure it doesn't get in the crevices, so the antique only works in the crevices of the stamped mark. Seems a bit extreme to me, and if that's how its done, I've gotta find a different product to use, because that would be a colossal waste of time. And how do you apply it to the entire surface area but not let it get into stamped lettering? Every video I see shows folks wiping the stuff on the entire surface of the project, letting it dry, then smearing on the antique, everything comes out beautiful after wiping it off. If I seem frustrated, please don't take it personally. I just am, and with everyone's input, the eureka moment will come! YinTx

I think I am not understanding everything put before me well enough to apply the knowledge. And I am not being clear about what I have done. The dye was put on the body of the project before oiling and clear lac. Should not be a surprise, as it is not uncommon. Weaver Leather shows a video where they put red dye on before antique. Al Stohlman's Coloring Leather book discusses dying leather before antique. I'm not breaking any new ground or rules here. Pear shaded areas on my current project burnished fine, and also were done using textured tools, not smooth. Every step I allow 8 to 24 hours to dry, even though I see folks waiting only 30 minutes or less at times. The red piece above was dyed and Clear-Lac'd weeks ago. Although the image does not show it, I was using sheeps wool. I always see folks put resist on the entire piece, even the Kieth Valley video recommended in this thread, he says he applied resist (Clear Lac) over the entire piece before antique paste. I am beginning to think I am putting my resist on too thick: both the Clear Lac and the Tan Kote, which is why I am not getting the results I expect. It appears to me I am putting on less than what I see in the examples, but I could be wrong. Every one says "get it on there good, you need a solid coat. You may have to put it on twice." My clear lac is reduced 50% with thinner, and one coat. Still everything wipes off too well. I suppose all I can do is experiment some more. I have tried it with no resist, and it looks like I dipped the thing in a bucket of muddy oil. Not pretty at all, and no degree of buffing helped. Did the Eco Flow Gel Antique with no resist, and it came out so dark you couldn't see the tooling. Perhaps a bunch of coasters where I do things 20 different ways and see which one looks best! Was just hoping not to have to go the route of experimentation and discovery when there are over 100 years of folks doing the same before me. YinTx

I only knew him briefly, and as soon as I knew him, he immediately struck me as the type of person I would enjoy spending time with. I sincerely wish I had met him much sooner. My condolences to his family and friends as well. YinTx

Terry, I gave the wool technique a try today, no luck. I had a piece of leather I was trying out various stamps, borders, etc. on that had been dyed red then coated with clear lac. Put the Fiebing's paste on, waited a few minutes, then wiped it *lightly* ONE time. Absolutely no antique left, completely pulled it all out. Here is the result: Another project I was working on today the leather turned darker brown, but nothing stuck in the pear shaded areas on petals and leaves. Only place that seemed to have antique left was where I had made decorative cuts. I am again at a point of frustration. YinTx

Depends... what are you using it on? YinTx

Terry, I did just wipe with a paper towel after applying the antique. However, when I wiped the first time, it all came off, so I had to re apply and be careful about not pulling it out of the lettering and borders. Second piece, I let it set for a while and dry before wiping, hoping more of it would stay down. That helped with the contrast, but not with the streaking. I have seen the Keith Valley video last year sometime I think, so thanks for the reminder. After watching again, it looks like he really works the antique into the leather, not just wiping it on like so many others show. Perhaps that is my issue, so I'll try again. He also uses Tan Kote. Oddly enough as you mention, it looks like he puts another coat of Neat Lac on TOP of the Tan Kote. He also mentions a book, "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bob Likewise, so I'll see if it has any good info in it to help me out. YinTx

So I've been using Clear Lac with some success as a resist, thanks to everyone's input. Many many thanks. Now my issue is the topcoat. Tan-kote does not work, despite all the instructions from so many sources saying to apply Tan-Kote over Fiebing's Paste Antique. (Alden's School of Leather Trades, Bruce Cheaney, Jim Linnell, The Leather Crafter's Bible, Al Stohlman's "Coloring Leather," the list goes on and on). I find it just flakes off after it dries and looks terrible. This happened to the large basketweave stamped project above. So I tried to use the Clear Lac as a top coat (also suggested in the book "Coloring Leather"). No flaking, and it seals just fine, but it pulls up the antique and makes a streaky mess. This is a photo of a binder cover my little one is trying to make, and I've ruined it by applying the Clear Lac top coat. Now I've started Sheridan carving, I'm going to need a good way to do this without streaking, peeling, flaking, cracking, etc. Perhaps it is my method of application? Suggestions? YinTx

That is really cool! What are you using for the IPad retainer? and how are they attached? YinTx

I have bought tumbled leather from Hermann Oak in natural veg tan. It is soft and pliable, no real wrinkles to speak of. Almost like a chrome tan, but looks and acts like veg tan when taking dyes, finishes, etc. A photo of your sample would help... YinTx

I agree, but I went out on a limb on this one because the potential was there for a lot of orders from others that would need the same design. Looks like I'll give the "introductory price" to someone else so they can model the piece instead! YinTx

Dayum.. I was putting that stuff in the scrap bin. What was I thinking... Congrats on satisfying the customer, though. I had one that I made 5 prototype purses for, and on the last one, let me know she wasn't ready to buy, because, well, no $$, even though I cut the price to $45. We are talking hand stitched, hand dyed, Hermann Oak leather, etc. YinTx

Does anyone have information on where I could find these leathers: (made in USA) 1. suede 2. pig suede, and 3. bark tanned sheeps wool/sheepskin? Much appreciated, YinTx

your works keep getting better and better. Nice braid-look border! YinTx

It's all clear as can be now, makes sense. Amazing how things look when they are missing context...kinda like the news these days. YinTx

You shouldn't have to apologize for something you've made and posted in the "show off" section. I've only had the nerve to make one holster, it was so so. I wasn't even bold enough to do tooling on it, so kudos! I like the color as well: what did you use? Have you had a chance to use the rig? Functional, or would you make changes? YinTx

Yes, I think you want image B. Give it a try, and work on keeping the tension even, you should get a nice slant on both sides this way as well. In image A, the slants of the holes are trying to pull the thread into a straight line, in image B, they allow the thread to fall in a nice angled pattern. YinTx

Best hope she don't sell the new one at a big discount to the feller down the road... Knew a story of a soon to be divorced wife that sold her hubbie's Porsche for $1 while it was still community property... Better hide th' stitcher if n ya fine j-ya-sef in a sim'lar sit-che-ation.

What are those two thingies in the lower pockets on the left side? I really like this portfolio, and hope to be able to tool even half that good someday. Thanks for sharing! YinTx

If I were a guessing guy, I'd say your needle priority is getting altered as you go along. You can see that some of the stitches go along with the slant of the hole, while others are fighting the slant of the hole. In fact, it looks like all but one of the stitches fight the slant of the hole. YinTx

Received, as new condition. Thanks for the prompt delivery! YinTx

I'm not in Seattle, but shipping is cheap...what happened to the stitching? Or did it not have any? YinTx

I think UK Saddlery has what you are looking for: YinTx