councilman24

Tension has nothing to do with skipping stitches. When the event of stitching a skip occurs the top tension has been released by the take up arm coming down. That thread does not look like sewing machine thread. The fibers stitcking out makes it look like twine. Remember each point on the thread goes back and forth through the eye of the needle 10, 15, 20 times depending on the stitch length. As the hook pulls top thread around the bobbin and the take up lever pulls it back, leaving only the length of a single stitch behind. And depending on the speed your stitching and the amount of thread pulled through the eye it can be moving 20 to 30 miles per hour. Reversing back and forth for every stitch. Exactly what is that thread? Sewing machine thread usually isn't T80. If you want to keep trying that thread go to a 22 or 23 size needle. But first I'd get it working with right twist bonded nylon T70 thread. Yes the left needle should use right twist thread but unless your a factory buying it by the pallet load it is rare and only available usually in white and black. Most of us manage to get left twist bonded thread to work on the left needle.

This is the only machine that has this spring loaded shuttle race. Unless Adler's new one, 969 I think, does.

Not that I can find. Found one on setting neesle bar height bit not on turning shuttle timing. I figured it out and it's sewing but don't know what I don't know.

I just figured out the trick to get the inner race in. I couldn't get it in with the springs in place. But you can with the springs out. Then you can turn the race to match the half circle cut outs in the surrounding structure with the half cir le cutouts on the race. Insert the spring. A needle helps with line up. Then turn handwheel to allow race to turn and line up another spring. Got all four in, lined up race cutouts for for door assembly bolt, and then pressed in and locked ba k with ser screw. In photo you an see one spring in and hole lined up for another. This is the kind of trick that can save hours. And obviously was intended with half cutaways in stationary out side rim. I was trying to figure out why those cutout were tpmhere. That's what led to figuring out how to do it.

I was trying to get a parachute harness job done last night. I went to rethread the machine and like the forgetful old man I am I forgot to thread through the hidden take up lever. Yes I know, but I haven't had it long, it was 3 am and I'm forgetful. I actually teach new riggers how to sew so yes I no better. So, or course a bunch of thread got bound up around the hook and bobbin. I cut the work loose, opened up the cover, pulled out the loose thread. Hand wheeled around and the needle was hitting part of the hook. I was confused and pulled door assembly off and pulled hook out. Of COURSE, I forgot to tighten the inner race spring lock. By the time I remembered about the lock I had managed to pull the inner race out from behind the hmm, hook driver? What ever that part is called. And now I can't get it back behind to lock it back in place. I did manage to find the one spring that fell out. Any help on how to get the inner race back there without complete disassembly? I got it out but I've tried an hour to get it back. Also it seems like the timing is off a lot, like 180 degrees. Do the two halves of the drive shaft under the clamping rings slip around one inside the other? The timing instructions in English are poorly translated and confusing. Given that I have to retime the bottom anyway maybe releasing the clamp rings and what ever I have to do to get the driver out won't be much more. Any videos on timing hook? Couldn't fine any from Uwe or anyone else. Help? Photos in a few minutes. Terry

Replying to an plder thread I read a couple of days ago. Cambell Randall has 300 shims for the 205. Their online catalog sucks so call them for what you want. I just installed a 300 tonight I got from tbem a few weeks ago.

Yep, finally got back to it. About 30 secs to fix. thanks.

Just acquired a 205-370 in excellent condition. But when moving the stitch length lever into the reverse/up position it tends to sag slightly. Is there some friction pad/device that may be worn or other fix or adjustment to hold it in place against gravity? I tried to look inside but chose not to get.too carried away yet. And I couldn't identified a thing on the parts diagram but the scan I have isn't very high high resolution.

As above 280 /28 the metric size and US size respectively of the blade of the needle. If the needle is 2.5mm in diameter and 60mm from the top to the top of the eye it is likely (or is equivalent) to class 7x1 (aka 794). The larger adler (204 and 205) and cowboy machines as will as the singer 7x33 class and consew 733 use 7x1 (leather) and 7x3 (cloth) (aka 794) needle class. I have Adler 205, Singer 7-33, 7-33 and singer 144's machines that all use 794 class needles.

It will NOT sew with a 135x17 if timed for a 135x5. The Pfaff 238 actually came from the factory in both set ups. Attached is a screen shoot from a reference in a Facebook group file section that has all the specs for each needle system by every equivalent system and fullncross reference of needle systems. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/Bzpqr2PA3UDL3JBF/?mibextid=oFDknk BTW There are dozens of needles that start with 134. Not all have the same shank dimensions.

There are 217's that cam with a small size cam box. The 217n model generally was supplied with a larger size cam box. The 217n also supposedly cam with a small cam box. I do not.know but don't think it was the same as the 217 small cam box. The 217n also came in 6,8, and 12 mm max zig zag width. As the post above shows the cams are NOT interchangeable. I have 308 and 315 cams for the 217 small cam and a 308 8mm cam for the large 217n cam drive. If you haven't figured out I have both a 217 and a 217n 8mm and 12mm. Global only sells the 315 4 point zig zag cam. 12mm width I think. So when talking about a "217" you should specify either 217 or 217n and max stitch width.

I think I'm the one that started the Hoyer lift recommendation. At least started recommending it a few years ago. I use it to lift entire tables with machine from the end. Using a couple of adjustable straps I made. Since it's made for moving up to 400lbs through doorways it works well. I also use it to lift 166 lb Class 7 heads and 30" long arm 144's. Working on a Class 7 when you can reach the top and the bottom of the head is a whole lot easier than reaching or crawling under a table. I've also used the lift to put them in and out of a van or truck. They go under the vehicle just like a bed. I have about 18 head on the first floor of my house and another 35 or so downstairs. So I bought two used lifts. For around $75 each. Often left over when an elderly relative moves to a care facility or passes. Living alone most of the time the lift makes it easy for me to move all but the biggest tables around.

I didn't put this in for sale because I don't own it or possess it at the moment. But there is an American straight needle available in Southwest Michigan. My understanding is that it either sews or is very near to sewing. It would end up being at most a few hundred dollars. If anyone's interested in discussing further send me a message. For more explanation it's part of a deal that I might do but have absolutely no room or need for an American straight needle.

I think it may be they took off the jump foot but didn't add anying else. Still not sure?

Trying to figure oit what the difference between a 132k6 and k10 is. I found one indication a k10 may either be a true walking foot or at least something different that the spring jump foot on the k6. Anybody know? I'm tired of trying to find some thing besides the parts manual and to cross eyed to sort through parts to figure it out.

The high lift and reverse modifications were usually done to the more common 7-33 and 7-34. These are often used for parachute harness work. I have 3 of these. I'd have to look up the intended lift for 7-9. None of them were real high as made. I don't have the link handy but google "army sewing machine technical manual" and you should come up with two TM- manuals. At least one has very detailed maintenance instructions for the 7-33. How it will apply to a 7-9 I don't know. Two of the companies that used to do the high lift and / or ad reverse conversions are out of business. I think there was a third but don't remember who it was. I think lately folks have moved to newer machines rather than having these converted. Have fun.

It was an ebay seller for the 217 plastic ones. I have the double throw and triple throw versions for the 217 in delerin and the full set of decorative stitches in original metal. Just got a double throw metal original cam for 217n. My buying history doesn't go back far enough to find ebay seller but they haven't listed them for 3 or 4 years. I lost my double throw delerin cam and contacted them directly for another one. But just don't have the contact.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/271013551433547/

This is a consew version of a singer 20u in your area. They don't wvwn say zig zag in the ad. May not know. They can be made to.work. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/166590692219689/

I'm in SW Michigan. Singer 20u's are all around us. IMHO ONLY buy a blue or tan Singer. Chinese made clones branded singer, consew and a dozen other brands are available as cheap as $300 for the head. I have several zig zag machines. All but 2 were bought locally I have 3 20u's, 2 Pfaff 238's, 4 Bernina 217(n),s including one 12m wide, 2 consew 199r-2a's that are double through zig zags. As cheap as $300 amd one of the bernina's with a cam drive for various stitches was $750. Also an old singer not mentioned above that I can't remember the model number if. It doesn't tension release sp anything you can compress and stuff under the 1/2 clearance foot you can sew. I also have a sailrite zig zag because it was cheap but have never used it. All except the sailrite are dropfeed only. But I know a parachute container manufacturer that uses a 20u to close the corner of the rig. Seam includes 4 layers of cordura and or parapack and 4 layers of nylon binding tape. A bernina clone is sold by Global for sailmakers. Can.be had to do a triple throw zigzag and mount a puller to the back. The consew 146 is a compound feed zig zag. One rigger I know bought one thinking it would up his capability. Not so much. Keep looking at craigslist and fb. But you have to look at every post. Many post have one bad photo and say sewing machine $200. I've gotten many good deals by being able to tell what they were and fix minor things wrong. One of the Bernina's I got for $450. I told them they should get more and it was worth more but not to me as my 5th zig zag. Left the offer standing. No other buyers in 2 weeks and they called me back. Keep looking. And contact me.

A link for the spindle motor mount? Not sure if I can find that. Thanks.

The way I look at needle size is that anything not a simple uncoated woven fabric needs the top end of any table and usually even higher. Leather, neoprene, coated fabric etc. I routinely use nothing smaller than a 19 for 69 nylon and often a 21. I haven't found a table yet that I think works for non woven or thick, dense webbing/fabric.

think this is the one in the op. Hirth-Klause was the ancestor of Wolverine Shoe Company. Apparently imported leather machinery. Manual maybe dated 1898. We found this link trying to find out something about this machine.

When sewing with any portable machine your going to need a work space. If you currently have a table you use for cooking, eating, hand sewing you could replace it with an industrial sewing machine on a table. When not sewing the head lifts right out to store where you'd store the portable. Cut an insert to drop on the hole and your back to you just table. Table would take up about 8 sq ft.

I'm having a senior moment. What motor is this? For some reason I can remember.