councilman24

Thanks for the advice. I wouldn't likely have considered laying it down. I've hauled a gun safe in the middle of my trailer. I tie a net/cap with 4000lb webbing.and use 4 heavy ratchet straps. Key is having it in the middle so even length on all straps. But if I think I can manage to get it down and up I try that. I worry about stress bolts somewhere.

Question is can an American Straight needle come apart easily for transport or does it need to move as one piece? Have trailer to move it intact and upright but hope a can make it a couple of pieces. Thanks.

The idea that this has given me is to use a long stand I got with a parts 29-4 for one of my complete 29-4s that has a standard stand so I can have a bigger table than the standard stand allows.

I also use my phone, not only for close but also as telescope. But I also have one of the flexible stand magnifying glasses with circular light around it. Usually use it for picking.out bartacks on parachutes I repair but works for close up look at machines too. Range from $35 to.$350. Mine is 35 years old.

I've never heard of one cracking. See post on 7-33 needles for very good manuals.

The Navy Equipmentman manual 3 and 2 is very good for 7 class as well as 31-15, 111 w 150 through 155, 112 w 140, 143 w 2. But the Cal's manual is by far the best. A user wrote very good detailed instructions for classes 31-15 and similar, 7 class and consew 733, 111 class including consew 225 and juki 562, 211 singer class, consew 199 class, singer 107 class. Here is an example. But I have one of only two copies I've ever heard of. The Technical manual has VERY detailed service instructions also.

From Navy Survial Equipmentman manual 3 and 2.

In the thread and needle table above the 7 under government is thread designation. I usually use 5 or 6 cord for parachute harnesses. All my needles for my 7-33 and now 7-34 aee 7-1 fabric needles. I believe 7-3 and 7-4 were later designations of fabric and leather points respectively. Below are a series of photos from various manuals. First the cover, then applicable pages.

It's also a Supreme DY637 and a Chandler DY347. I have both. It is a Mitsubishi. The DY-359 is a descendant with auto controls. Walking foot only as stated above. I know I've seen at least one other name on them. This is the first time I've seen Consew on it or the Consew documents above. I have only sewn on one of mine testing it when I bought it but seemed like a solid quality walking foot. Mine will likely both be for sale. Mine are both large bobbin so maybe I'll keep one.

I'll pm later but why not compound feed?

Not so bad.

Are you looking for a display piece or a work horse? I have one I should sell but not sure if it's pretty enough for you.

Ebay. Or Henderson

BTW I am not a sewing machine mechanic. I had to learn how to work on mine because I own 20 industrial machines and no mechanic nearby. Becoming a mediocre machine mechanic based on need. But this change of gauge isn't really that hard. they are meant to be changed in the field.

It just really isn't that hard. Some of the first detailed sewing machine adjustment I did. But takes a good manual and an understanding of the adjustments needed. Try it for fun.

No, on a 212 singer it"s not that hard. When I got mine in the mail both hooks were loose and no where near set up. Took 2 to 3 hours with a good manual to set the hooks, the first time I ever moved a hook. Bought a new gauge set and changed it for the first time to a new gauge in an hour or two, again the first time I did it. With a good manual. Parts are widely available. I haven't worked with other than 212 singer series. But if you find a good one of those at a good price buy it no matter what the gauge. You likely will want more than one gauge anyway. Yes it's more convenient to have one in each gauge you want. But if you use one for an occasional project and mostly at one gauge it's not that hard to change. Assuming some medium mechanical ability. Especially if you've timed machine and adjusted hook clearances before. If you can't change your watch battery or the oil in your car then maybe changing one isn't for you. In fact I need to go down stairs and change mine from 1/4 to 3/16. I expect it to take an hour. With interruptions maybe 2 hours.

Figured it out. Luberto's classic. Other posts on here. Maybe pink is photo artifact

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/484665518704132/ I've never sewn this. Info?

I haven't used it for leather but for cordura nylon we use MDS loaded nylon as a stiffener between two layers. It can be sewn easily and is much less likely to crack than HDPE or normal nylon 66. Its about like the cover material from office supply above except more durable. We use 0.031 (1\32) or 0.060. Below is one source as an example I found on google. I usually purchase in 2x4 sheets. Don't remember where I actually purchased it. https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/Raw-Materials/Plastic-Sheets?searchterm=mds+nylon&navid=4287921892

For occasional use I have a set like this. https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-02614A-Interchangable-Hollow-10-Piece/dp/B0002T87E0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547123421&sr=8-3&keywords=hole+punch+set I also have dedicated hole punches for number 0,1,2,5, and 8 grommets. https://www.sailrite.com/Round-Hole-Cutter-1-8 Mine are actually this type. https://www.sailrite.com/Hole-Cutter-1-8

I have to say my first thought was 'UGLY'. But likely would have bought it 4 days ago before I bought another patcher. But I'm also too lazy to paint any of my machines or stands. So, good work.

Thanks for the replies. I've bought the Adler because it was closer and it works well. The Singer 29k71 is still available. Looks like it needs more cleaning than the Adler. Debating on a 4 hour one way drive. I have two 29-4's that both need parts and one singer stand. I may just play with them now that I have a working patcher. What to do, what to do.

Which patcher would you pick? A Singer 29k71 or Adler 30-5? Both on stands, good working condition, both $500. I know limitations of patchers.