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veritasleather

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About veritasleather

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    http://veritas-leather.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Los Angeles California US of A

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  • Leatherwork Specialty
    journals, bookbinding, belts, sheaths, g-straps
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    leatherwork
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  1. veritasleather
    I actually had it facing the right way, my mistake was that I had it way to hot, I had it set at 300c for paper according to the manual. The machines hot plate height from the bed comes set only about 1" clearance. I should have set that higher to give me more of a clearance to set the foil without touching the hot plate. But it was so hot that the hot plate sucked up the aluminum foil.
  2. veritasleather
    Yeah i am not sure if it is, the plate has a bit of weight to it so hopefully its not aluminum but not sure about magnesium. I have the Amazon (China) WT-90CT model. I will send a message to the seller and ask. They seem to be pretty good at responding.
  3. veritasleather
    Well it was worth a shot, tried to torch it and it didn't do much unfortunately .
  4. veritasleather
    Thats actually not a bad idea, I removed the plate, I can take my mini torch to it. see what happens, im sure i won't damage it, its meant to handle up to 300 C.
  5. veritasleather started following Leather Wheel True up help needed, Burned foil paper! how do I clean up the mess!? and Warped vegtan. Chessboard, now what?!
  6. veritasleather
    Hello, Just got a heat embosser and have been experimenting with different types of leathers and heat temps. I went a bit to hot and the heat plate just absorbed the aluminum foil paper and now I have all the residue left on the inner plate. Any idea how to remove this without sanding or using much abrasives? thanks for the help! Frank
  7. veritasleather
    Ok, so looks like the double sided tape and a good solid flat board is going to be key. I will have to get some MDF instead of ply just to be safe and order some double sided tape. I am also hoping once I stitch it down to a heavy layer of leather it will flatten as well. thanks again for your tips and advise fredk.
  8. veritasleather
    Fredk, so the Chessboard is a 22" x 22" square of veg. tan leather. (b) yes, I still want to put a backing or liner under the 5-6 oz. to stabilize it? but would still want it to roll. (c) doubling it up the thickness with a liner (d) I have 1/4 inch. thick plywood, would that work? don't have double sided tape, but maybe cement it to the plywood since I will cover the glued area with backing leather? Do you think this will straighten the leather or flatten it back?? thanks for your help.
  9. veritasleather
    Hey guys, I am in need of some advice, I have been working on a 22 x 22 chessboard for a buddy of mine. I am using Chahin Weaver veg. tan 5-6 oz. leather. I went ahead and used clear packing tape on the back and now I have cut all my lines and cut a 1 1/2 rose border. but now all of the edges and borders are beginning to warp or curl up. Honestly, its beginning to look like a giant valet tray lol. I still have a lot of stamping to go, should I just continue with tooling or should I remove tape and glue it to cardboard? I would appreciate the help? What would you guys do in my situation? Frank
  10. veritasleather
    Got it, thanks again! I will try it out.
  11. veritasleather
    @Stetson912 @JKHelms Great, yes thanks fellas, I will definitely try this, interesting on your pic @JKHelms, yours is stitched, i thought of that, but the customers current wheel is not stitched at all, he said they have had it for years but its begining to crack along the side.
  12. veritasleather
    Hey guys, I am making a 1" thick x 12" diameter veg. tan (sole leather) wheel with a 3/4 ID. for a knife co. they use it to knock off burrs after sharpening. I glued up 4 layers with Master's cement. My issue is that wheel is not very true or flat on the OD, I guess i didn't mate some of the edges that well. So, in some areas there is about 1/16th or less off on the edge. What would be a good way to flatten or even out the area? thanks! Frank
  13. veritasleather started following Fiebing's Low VOC black dye vs. pro dye? and pancake knife sheath question. Welt?
  14. veritasleather
    I think I can get their water stains, I am going to have try them out. And also dipping.
  15. veritasleather
    ok, I did my own test, I know most of you don't have to deal with this problem because you're not in CA. But i did test out the LOW VOC black Fiebings dye and I gotta say it was a pretty bad experience. I dyed a strap, let it dry 24 hours. I came back and it ended up pretty blotchy. And when I went to buff the cotton shirt I used ended up black with dye. I had to re-dye with pro oil black dye (Fiebings) again. After this, I had no problem, like night and day. Well, hope this helps someone.
  16. veritasleather
    Hey guys! I don't know if this has already been a topic. Has anyone compared Fiebing's Low VOC vs. their pro dye? I KNOW pro is the best! but here in Cali. its getting harder to get the pro dye. Just wondering if anyone has experienced the pros and cons when compared? Other than the harmful fumes of course. I guess I am asking performance wise. thank you all!
  17. veritasleather
    Since you have experience making leather pick guards with no backing, So far none have curled or lifted when left with no backing?
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