MudBugWill

That's fine. I have been getting a lot of good feedback from my current students. Thanks for checking it out.

Hey Y'all, In this video I recreate a WILDSWANS "Edward" card wallet. I think trying to mimic another maker/brand's item as closely as possible is a good way to push your skills and to get out of a rut. Obviously it is not cool to rip people off and sell the work though - just want to be clear on that haha

Hey Y’all, I am very excited to introduce my online leathercraft school. It has been quite an undertaking, but I have finally completed my 101 courses. I outline what is covered in the above video, so please check it out if you would like increase your leathercraft skills and flatten out the learning curve. Become a self sufficient leather crafter through mastery of the fundamentals! https://completeleathercraft.thinkific.com/ Most of y’all will probably be thinking who the hell is this guy. I have been full time Leather crafting for quite a while doing private label work and have invested a lot of time and money training in Japan. Here is a little summary of my background:

I am selling my Seiko LCW-8bl-1 sewing machine. This is a compound feed walking foot heavy duty sewing machine with an auto lubrication system. This is a really nice machine. It has only been used for about 70 putter head covers. I can sell it as the head only, with all the accessories (No motor and table), in the original box for $1,950 shipped to the USA, or everything (table, motor, speed reducer pulley, head, etc) for $2,150 on a pallet and buyer is responsible for shipping. Here is a link to an album of high-res photos: https://imgur.com/a/woc20rB I am selling in an effort to de-clutter and invest in one narrow cylinder arm machine. Please email any inquiries: vulturepremium@gmail.com Located in New Orleans, La

I am selling my Seiko TE-6 sewing machine. It has only been used for about 30 wallets. I can sell it as the head only, with all the accessories (No motor and table), in the original box for $1,950 shipped to the USA, or everything (table, motor, head, etc) for $2,150 on a pallet and buyer is responsible for shipping. Here is a link to an album of high-res photos: https://imgur.com/a/IQUXU6L Included with the machine in addition to the factory parts is a rubberized feed dog, regular feed dog, roller presser foot, rubberized roller presser foot, flip up edge guide, extra bobbins (some of the black coated ones have been sanded down smoother and that is why they look extremely worn), and a lasercut plywood bobbin caddy. I am selling in an effort to de-clutter and invest in one narrow cylinder arm machine. Please email any inquiries: vulturepremium@gmail.com Located in New Orleans, La

A splitter is an absolute necessity for high quality leather work. Also, you can use the split leather for prototyping. 470 is a nice large size too. I bought a 300mm wide Camoga band knife splitter, and my efficiency is through the roof. I would highly suggest you take whoever up on that offer.

I am selling acrylic watch strap templates. Instruction/demonstration album here: https://imgur.com/a/dh6oSAI I can make any lug width and taper. The pricing is $12.50 a pair, plus shipping, or for the standard set (18mm, 18/16mm, 20mm, 20/18mm, 22mmn 22/20mm, 24mm, 24/22mm) $78.50 shipped to the USA. I can make them in either burnished strap dimensions or edge painted strap dimensions. Please email, I rarely check my forum inbox. Vulturepremium@gmail.com

Hello, I am selling my M3000 Regad Fileteuse with Cork Handle. I upgraded to the double handled version and no longer have a use for this one. It is in perfect working condition. I am asking $315 shipped to the USA.

Hello, I have a band knife splitter with a 300mm mouth. I can reliably split leather strips 260mm wide and narrower. I can go from a max of 5mm down to .3mm. I am located in New Orleans, Louisiana. Please email me at vulturepremium@gmail.com if you are interested. I do not mind splitting by mail. Thanks, Will

Here is a zipper clutch that I made for my girlfriend. The interior is French Goat and the exterior is matte Alligator. Everything is lined with folded edges, except the perimeter edges. Stitched at 9spi with Serafil polyester thread. YKK Excella zipper.

I forgot to quote everyone who had questions. Sorry, I am new to this interface

Thank you for the kind words everyone! As for the burnishing: I think 90% of the work to achieve a nicely burnished edge is done before you even apply anything to it. I make everything oversized and cut flush. I use very thin layers of glue. I use a mini Japanese hand plane to round each edge nicely and sand them smooth. The radius of the edge is important. If the edge is too flat, you are just pushing the leather back against itself and mushrooming it. If it isn't rounded, the burnish will never look right. You can make edges like this with any of the usual burnishing agents: Water, Tokonole, CMC, Gum Trag, etc. I use Funori because I enjoy the process of making it and the history. It is a dried Japanese seaweed that you grind up, soak in water and heat. I think you are just extracting the cellulose or something. Then you strain it and use it as you would any burnishing liquid. It needs to be refrigerated though. It gets pretty rank pretty quickly. It smells like dead sea creatures when it turns haha. Apparently it was used to mount scrolls and is used in art restoration as a delicate glue. My method is: -Glue the edges using contact cement and a glue scraper. The glue must be as thin as possible otherwise the edge will have lines and ridges. -Hammer the joint -Cut flush in one cut if possible. I like to use a ruler and score a light line with a fresh Olfa blade. Then I use my Japanese leather knife and make the cut, using the score line to steer it and keep me on track. -I then begin the process of rounding the edge. I like to use the mini plane with as little as the blade out as possible. I begin knocking of the corners working from the leather surface to the center of the edge. I flip and repeat to form a rounded edge. Edge bevelers are faster to knock of the initial corner but just make a flat spot and another corner that needs to be sanded and sculpted. I think it is faster to do as much cutting with a plane and as little sanding as possible. I also free-hand bevel with a knife instead of a plane when the situation calls for it, such as on corners and concave curves. -Then I sand to sculpt and smooth the edge. -I apply the Funori and burnish gently with a piece of my old cut-up khaki's. I add beeswax to the canvas as necessary to help with the burnish. -I sand, run alcohol dye on the edge. let dry, and repeat the Funori, burnish, sanding and dye as needed.

ありがとうございます！ I study with Yamashita-san "GO Designer Leathers" in Ebisu.

Very rarely do I get to sit down and make an item without regards to efficiency. This is a wallet I made for myself for a trip to Japan to study with my leathercraft teacher. Most everywhere is cash only there and you need to use many coins, so I wanted to treat myself to a nice wallet finally. The exterior is Italian camo leather and the interior is Buttero. It is stitched at 9spi with Amy Roke 632. All edges are dyed and burnished with Funori seaweed.