TinkerTailor

Judging by the groove worn in the casting, that machine has run several metric miles of thread at least.......

I looked very carefully, and in the corner on the top edge of the baseboard behind my bench, i found a very small ziploc with a little black nut in it. Sure as shinola, it is a 9/64-40 nut...... Thing is, i don't remember the original screw having enough length to fit a lock nut on the outside, and i can not for the life of me figure out where else this nut in a bag came from........Did not find the screw however..........Wtf.......I told you guys this was the universe messing with me......

Chigago screws and sam browne studs made in USA: http://www.usbind.com/collections/buttonheadstuds

You need to shorten the list of interests in your profile, It makes all your messages pages long. There is no rule for spi/thread size however there is a general guide that shorter stitches and smaller thread are for thinner and softer materials, For any given combination the range of spi and thread size is pretty wide, and open to interpretation due to style. There are limits, but within the safe range there usually are alot of options. See what others do, try things out, and see what you like. If you don't like it, change it up next time.

I like your style. That ebay gift card trick is awesome.

Ironically, that was totally on topic......How not to respond to advice: Erroneously publicly state the person giving advice is a specialist in bdsm scene gear......

Bob, Thanks for the confirmation, I was pretty sure i had it, but still a little leary. Sporty1: I looked up under the pedals, i even checked if it got caught up in the casters. At some point i always cut my losses. I got it rigged to finish at least some work last night, and in an hour or so i will get on the horn and look for some screws. Gregg: Sewing machine screws are one thing, I also rebuild internal gear bicycle hubs. Do you have any idea how many little pawls and springs there are in there? They are all planetarys inside there. Sometimes 2-3 sets of planetarys. Shifted from a little pin that goes into the end of the axle. Whey you pull them out of the hub most of them have 3-4 pawls spring loaded on the outside that engage the hubshell, and the pins that hold them in fall out really easy. Once you pull off the bearing cone, everything comes off the axle with a couple twists. When you put it back together, all those planetary gears and pawls have to get back into their spots or it won't go together. Opening one is not for the faint of heart. Most mechanics just look at those hubs, and say nope. A few of them then send the person my way. I keep every set of decent internals for the pins and springs. Spares save time and time is money. Unfortunately this is a new machine, and no-one with a broken one has walked into my door to give me a spare.......yet.

No credit to take here, that is as purchased new. It is the only new hammer i have ever owned and i got it in a quilting store, of all irony. I was saying i am going to refinish the handle because i much prefer a natural finish, beeswax or linseed oil. At that time i will polish the head proper. In the pic, it is not proper yet. I should post the guys that make hickory replacement handles for most hammers in the USA if anyone wants to know: http://www.tennesseehickoryproducts.com/

Drilling is a last resort, not actually going to do this, I wouldn't anyways without taking the bar out and at least using a drill press, preferably a mill. I am going to try to get 2-4 screws tomorrow locally and if not i will get them from techsew. The thumbscrew is working for now, and since it's a through-hole, i am not so worried about the thumbscrew breaking off. I know how to get out broken bolts. Ever use a left handed drill bit btw? You just drill into the stub of the bolt, and the grabbing of the bit tends to back the bolt out, instead of making it tighter like with right handed bits. That is why it would be easier from the backside, a righty bit will spin the bolt out. Left handed drill bits are one of my secret weapons.

To be honest i was about 5 mins away from haywiring it on. I am sure I could make it work, I am a farm boy after all. Would not be even close to the first time a leather stitcher had haywire where a screw ran away.......

Since i had to have all the tendons on the back of my right hand re-attached a few years ago, i have an issue with dropping small parts. As such i have learned to be very careful. This is the one that got away. I have magnets all over my machine to stick screws to. I did stick it there. I was in the process of putting it back in, with a magnetic screwdriver, and a rag under the bobbin area to catch it if i dropped it, and i fumbled a bit, and dropped it. It hit the center foot and the throat plate on the way down and bounced outa sight. I just caught it hit the newspaper on the floor out of the corner of my eye. Then i didnt see or hear it again. I bet it is under the baseboard, but i am not ripping it up to see. I would rather deal with the screw than piss off the old lady...

Thats it, my bar is threaded. I did look over the parts diagram and the thumbscrew on the front of the machine access cover is supposed to also be 9/64-40 and it screws in to the bar perfect, it is just too short to do it with the bar in place. I am pretty sure that is the size, from what i found in a quick search, the old kenmore is the same. Btw, thanks for checking your for me. I am tempted to just drill it out and use a bigger more common bolt and nut. Not going to try to tap it bigger, that is askin for an asswhupping..... I'd call bob, but it is a techsew....... I will call Ron and see, however i still have hopes i can find another locally.

In alberta, where i grew up that is the case, here in Vancouver? not so much. Hell i even know a home depot that does not sell 2x4's and plywood in bigger sizes than 2'x4'......They have a fine selection of patio planters and bbqs however. Btw, I got myself running with the thumbscrew that holds in the needle of a kenmore home machine, it caught perhaps 3 turns before bottoming out. It is Holding the foot good enough for chromexcel wallets, not trying any kydex with it though...

I have a wood floor and little screws hit it and then bounce anywhere.. Yeah i thought of a through screw, however I have an almost total shortage of small screws here it seems. May have to get an assortment some time soon. I have a list of places to call in the morning for a 9/64 screw. There is a machine repair man that advertises on CL that recycles machines, and i have discovered that the junk kenmore machine in the closet uses 9/64 as well in places, but they are all too short. Maybe he has one. There is a juki place in town but they are a ways away, and i bicycle everywhere. Plus i don't want to pay the 16 dollars i saw the genuine screw for sale for online...... I can have it here in a day or 3 from techsew in montreal but tomorrow is my last day off my real job before i travel for xmas. Looks like i will be having a few late nights this week. Fortunately my machine is quiet enough that my neighbours have never heard it, or so they say. And i cheated and had a beer. I decided that at 200lbs, If one beer thins my blood enough to prevent a clot in my tooth socket, i have bigger problems than teeth to worry about. .. And when I find the screw I am buying three. Not doing this again.

I have done that, swept the whole room, and combed the sweepings with a magnet too. Had it stuck on a magnet to keep from losing it while working just above the foot, and i fumbled it a little while putting it in. I saw it hit a piece of paper on the floor under my machine, and then not a sound. Gone. Apparently the universe wants to make sure i can't finish these orders. I had just committed to another one. How am i going to sew 2 belts, 3 wallets, a dog collar and a couple small change purses by hand in 1 week with a day job? Did i mention i had a tooth pulled this morning and am going back to the dentist tomorrow.... Not the best of days. I really need a drink and a ciggy tonight but i am not allowed due to the hole in my mouth and the meds. Can someone please have a drink on my behalf? Thanks.

9/64-40??? (insert line of curse words here)........M4 went in loosely, and i knew that the thumbscrew from the front cover was right, but i didn't know what it was. I was afraid they had used some stupid size like that..Just so juki can charge 12 dollars per screw..........I guess i am waiting on shipping to get one........What a headache. \ Thanks alot for your reply, its appreciated.

I just dropped and lost the screw that holds on my outside presser foot, does anyone know the length and thread pitch/diameter so i can go get a replacement locally? I have nothing that matches at hand. Gonna be hooped for xmas if i don't get one today.

That is why i look at old tools, i can find nice, high quality tools that you can not find any more. I make my own edgers, creasers and awls. I like tools that have already lasted a lifetime and will last another still. I am fully aware of tandys practices, as such i have never bought a tool there. I do own several vintage craftools, including some of my setters and stamps. I also own several rampart tools who i believe made tools for tandy in the 50s and then were bought by them. I have an adjustable stitch groover that has a pat.pend, made in USA rampart tools label. Tandy still sells the same one but not rampart branded, and no patent info. It is also made in asia now.

Look at the backside of a pop rivet and you will have your answer. There is a big nub that sticks out.

You could probably make simple flat ones like in the pic with an angle grinder out of sheet stainless without too much effort. An angle grinder, some small zip disks, a flap wheel and a sanding/polishing cup could do it. A band saw and a dremel would make things easier. You can get smaller pieces of sheet stainless or brass or whatever from mcmaster-carr. If you take it slow, most brass can be cut with a router. I wouldn't try it with stainless. People will tell you this is way too much work, however I know that someone with some fab skills and the right tools, (and i am talking about inexpensive angle grinder attachments, not manufacturing machines here) could make a nice pair of these in less than an hour. I could for sure. The advantage is they are totally custom. With one of a kind custom hardware, you can adjust the price accordingly. You can make them to fit your/the saddle/and the customers style. The modifications are endless.With a drill press, you could drill holes in it like brogue punching in shoes for instance. The other option is to design them in CAD and have them cnc'd out. Look in your area for a makers space or something like that that has a cnc metal cutting table of some kind, and make friends with one of the geeks who knows how to run it. Barley bucks go far.

Oh, I agree, and Jeremiahs hammer looks the best esthetically to me, out of your list, I just prefer the look of an old tool. I get alot of satisfaction knowing i made it look good and function again. I may have a thing for hammers in general. I have close to a dozen around my bench. Several I found an old hammer with a nice quality head and replaced the beat up handle. On the topic of hammers, I searched all over for a small ballpeen with a short handle, Leather places, woodworking, hardware, automotive, swap meets, craigslist to no avail. I went into a quilting store (no idea why, just had a feeling. I hate those stores), and for $2.99 I just picked up a ball peen i call my "Little Devil". It is 6oz, 6" long and has a 0.666" wide ball head hence the name. I use it for setting little copper rivets, and for tight places. I got it because i can't see the rivet around the head of my other hammers. Here it is along with a tester rivet I did with it, gonna refinish the crappy varnish on the handle and polish the head however:

I use hudson4supplies.com

Couple more shots:

I do them at perfect 90 from a flat pattern, not on a form. If i cut these the way northmount says, those 8 darts around the bottom would not turn out even.The trick is getting the stitch tension just right to pull it tight, but not pucker it. They come out almost seamless on the sleeves i make for mason jars. If you cut straight and stitch tight it should turn out.