Shorts

Ahh yeah, I saw that. I didn't get them as I use black.

I looked around but never found another. They required a $50 minimum order (before shipping). I had to fluff my order but I had no choice since I needed those caps. I would suggest several folks get together and make one big order. I don't think Scoville will separate shipping so someone will have to be the main guy and distribute the order when it all arrives.

Good hardware is so much easier to install and finishes up so much better. This week I finished up the last of my "black" Line 24 caps and today arrived my order of DOT Govt black caps. The difference is day and night. Not only did these have a real 'black' finish but they looked great after being set AND they actually stayed straight. My Line 24 caps would end up cock-eyed to one side or the shaft would split if I rapped the punch too hard. Not these DOT puppies. I've been using DOT for over a year for the other parts of the snaps and I loved them, but I didn't want to waste the huge supply of Line 24 I had so I didn't buy new stuff until they were gone. Hey, you gotta scrimp and hold as much money in the account for as long as possible! I guess I sound like an infomercial but nay, just a happy worker on a Friday afternoon with an order that can go out tomorrow on schedule. Carry on

The stitch pattern that's on the template that gets transferred to the outside gets transferred to the inside. Then glue outside the lines. As for width of your stitch lines, you're close going with half the width of the gun.

Mold after stitch. I get great results this way. Unless the design of the holster forced the stitching to be done after molding, I wouldn't do it.

Agreed. They have a wider range.

Thanks, I'll do that. What would account for different widths produced on the same model? Is their cast composition unstable? Cured different? Bad machine operator? ??

I'm considering using an ASP red gun to build a holster. I'm not 100% certain about it though. But ASP is the only one who makes this model (S&W3913). Anyone used this model before? How are ASP dimensionally off? Bigger?

In general it is good to see just how one's gear handles any and all types of stresses. Use what you want to use. As Kevin said, YMMV when it comes to using products. Even the water in ones location can affect your leather when molding. So, anything and everything affects how one's gear will behave. Pulling apart a pocket holster to test the glue may not matter if all you're making is pocket holsters. But when one makes a variety leather gear not just associated with concealed carry, gear that sees different work stresses in the outdoors maybe around very large powerful animals, then yes pulling it apart matters. If you don't test it, it may very well fail at the wrong time. Your customer will either call your stuff junk or will say 'wow, look how much it took'.

I do both...dye before or dye after molding. Depends on how I feel. But in a recent effort to keep my press pads clean (they're black so I don't know which sides are which) I dye after molding. What you can do before dyeing is take a light swab of alcohol and clean/degrease the leather. This will open up the pores and remove any contaminants that may interfere with dye absorption. This will be beneficial if either method you use (dyeing before or after molding).

Maybe for you two handed types

Still haven't had time to get one prototyped This week has taken off on me with family in town and working on the shoulder rig.

I still do the round punch on the ends and a bag punch in the middle, twice. Bag punch is 1.25". Anyway, I'm biding my time until I buy a good slot punch. I can't wrap my head around the cost of them though LOL Might have to do like Jeff and get a custom one done so the width is there too.

"Anyone else having a bad day?" YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And I have to laugh or else I'd cry. Today was working out great. Got up, had coffee, got started even 15 minutes earlier than normal. I took some photos of a finished holster, got it all packaged up and shipped out. Checked on a drying holster, it is all good and can go out tomorrow. "Wow, good day, I am on target". I received a payment this morning, right on time from what the customer said he would and I started working on his holster. It was to be all done today and left to dry overnight so it could be dyed and finished tomorrow with plenty of days to spare. So what happens? Stitching happened. I have no idea why stitching went haywire today, but it did. Got the mouth piece all on nice and square. I made the first pass on one side and then the bottom thread is no longer coming up. I thought I ran out of bobbin thread but that was way too fast from the last reload. Well, for some reason the thread had broken. And not torn broken, it was cut clean. <sigh> GREAT! I hate having broken stitch lines (like anyone loves them!). I get it going again, start the row a few back and manage to cover up that area pretty clean. I go around just about to the end and I decide to try veering off course to finish the line of stitching. Don't ask! Well. It looked like poop but ehh ok. I pull the holster out, and get it all set to stitch the other side. So I get my reverse stitches started to lock in, then go forward and make the curve. I am on a roll! Well, I rolled too far. You know that corner you're suppose to make, well I didn't make it. I kept stitching straight! klugyjhdcxujkb;j;ilurfdcf!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! OK, I'm done. I reversed, and gassed it. You know like when you drive when you're upset and you mash the gas pedal as if your car was getting rid of our anger?? Well that was me and the machine. Although for the speeding, the rest of the stitching was absolutely beautiful. Since I had the stupid thing done, I sliced open the not-supposed-to-be-closed part and wet molded the gun anyway. I'm curious. I'm going to build an entire new holster, that one is going to the discount pile. May some poor soul have mercy on my leatherworking sins and actually want it. LOL I need a beer. Oh, btw, I have splashing a bottle of brown dye on a good side of leather, carpet and me.

Interesting. I hadn't thought about dye rubbing off on the interior. But I carry a blued gun so I don't see it if it were. W I don't do anything special with the interior that I don't do to the exterior. Just dye it (Angelus) and seal it (Resolene). I haven't had any customers approach me about dye rub off (yet). I know it can happen. Matter of fact my new brown holster left ruboff on the inside of my khaki shorts. It doesn't bother me either way but it might bother others, especially if it's a nice shirt or whatever. What I would suggest is dying the inside of the holster before you glue and stitch. Then give it a good wipe down, either with a dry towel/cloth or with a swab of isopropyl. Experiment with it and see which works best. The isopropyl will show color, but use the dry cloth to test it out. Then stitch it up. When you seal it, even if you get a good thorough coat, it is still possible to rub off. Might want to experiment with different products as well.

Good suggestion. Neoprene can be found all over the place. It's definitely worth a shot. Thanks Crystal!

I have a few on my list that I need. My concern is the up front cost lump sum and Duncan's guns in general. I've been looking into dummy guns myself. There is interest for sure. I'm hoping to find a solution that includes reproduction capability.

Thanks JT!

I'm using a Cobra Class 3 stitching machine and its exactly what I need.

Interesting dye job, cool work Hand stitching does take a little time but you get better at it and it goes quicker. But it still takes some time to do. On the belt slot, get it as close to the belt size as you can. An oversized slot will allow the holster to move upon draw, causing some slack. I don't know what size slot/belt you need, just an offhand comment Overall, good work.

You're a true gentleman craftsman for sure. Thank for the insight, the angled cut and lifted edge makes perfect sense. I was fixin' to go on a Glock holster moratorium

Great job on the holster. Blows my first one out of the water as well. The boning is exceptional for a first run. Glad to hear it was initiated properly

Jeff, excellent work. I love how your blacks come out a nice dark matte satin finish. I do have a pondering about the trigger guard and leather on Glocks. Do you find the square shape of the front of the trigger guard to be a bit of a pill when reholstering? Sometimes mine hit the top edge of the leather and catch. I'm not quite sure how I'd go about correcting this behavior. The leather is beveled, edged, molded and stitched to allow some room for that large trigger guard. All the "right" things seem to be done. Just that pesky corner still catches. Thoughts?

I use this method as well, probably because it was here I was pointed in the right direction on how to go about tension screws