Shorts

Got my stamp from Dbar, been using it 2 years now I guess and it's doing the same now as it did the first day.

I actually found it all odd but not really surprising. I'm from South Texas, where most guys are farmers and ranchers and hunting, guns and 4wds are the norm. There are lots of women who, although their men will do those things, they don't like it. The area in general is very conservative. I'm sure there are some really antigun folks, to others it might just be a surprise that I do in fact like firearms and all the goes with them. I would venture to guess that I'm in a transition phase in life where I'm an adult and learning to live as my own person. I was there until I graduated college and got married. The time in between is a mystery to them as to who I've grown into. A little while ago I started being diplomatic and gentle in explaining what I do, "I do leatherwork." But then they press, "Oh like vests and purses and stuff". So I had to say, "Well, no, more like pouches and belts and holsters. From there they say "Like for guns?". Me, "Yes." and I'd ramble on about our shooters group and judges and cops Their reaction to that told me if they were truly interested or just being polite. The truly interested will give a story about someone they know with a gun and how they wanted to learn and if I could make them some for their friend/spouse/dad etc. The polite ones will say "Ohh! Wow. That's interesting. And how long have you been doing this?" Anyway, I guess I'd been making note of introductions and exchanges. With guns being a volatile topic I find it a bit ornery that this straight laced girl will put that right out there by making it a legitimate pursuit. I hope it makes folks think twice about firearms and the people who own them. Of course, at a lunch with a bunch of ladies, including the Pastor's wife, I did order a beer with my meal

Good work putting this together. I was thinking of a similar project with a very well used table saw....except I ended up selling it at the garage sale because someone asked about..."sure, take it". I'm still looking though at either building my own or just buying something off the market to hurry up and get something going. It takes a while to burnish items with only one hand to use. Time to upgrade.

This past week I traveled back home for a little vacation time to relax. I bumped into a few parents of friends at church and as we were catching up the conversation turns to "What are you doing now?" As I tell them I see their face contort to a look of horror and question as they try to remain understanding and supportive. This wasn't the first time this happened and I don't suspect it will be the last. I find it somewhat humorous as people are faced with the conundrum of "guns are bad!" and "she's a nice person". Had any similar moments?

I don't know, I'm not a lawyer in Canada. Or a lawyer in the States.

I recall a case where a guy fell down and stabbed himself with the knife he was carrying in a nylon sheath. I can't remember the details but I do know it isn't unheard of.

Harness needles sz 000, $5 for 10pk - new - great for handstitching Harness needles sz 000, $8 for 14pk - new - great for handstitching Waxed linen thread, white & black, $7 all 3 rolls - new - great for handstitching $5 for pack, Line 24 - NO CAPS, don't know how many of any piece $6 - only used a few from box of 100 $14pr Comp-Tac standard clips 1.5" - 3 pairs, new $38 - new CS Osborne 7/8" strap end punch, will consider trade for same quality edge beveler for 6-8oz leather EcoFlo - all for $20, otherwise I'll reference Tandy for price per amt. for individual bottles Satin Sheen -2/3full Java Brown - 1/2full Coal Black - 1/2full Dark Mahogany - full, new Everything is plus shipping. No I don't know what it will cost to ship to ___ until it's packed up on my scale. I ship USPS Priority, as cheap as I can without endangering the item. I'm not afraid to use parcel. I'll use bubble envelopes or boxes, whichever is best. Anticipate $5 for small light stuff and up to $10 or $12 for the big items.

Yes.

I see you're just as stubborn. How about that? I did make a few holsters before starting the business. It was a concern then, especially when I started looking for a maker's mark. Now it was going to be my name on that item, completely identifiable, for better or for worse. I'd be doing a disservice if I didn't say that the liability wasn't on my mind. My formal education is health and fitness. As a trainer liability is a very big consideration. It's a part of the field that cannot be ignored. In fact, any employer requires liability coverage from it's trainers just to hold a contract and current certification. If my conviction to protect myself is higher than yours then what is the problem? Do your research. Just like there is more than one book in the library, there is more than one site on the internet. Being that LW is a very accessible, public site, as a maker in the field I wouldn't air much if any serous dirty laundry or inner workings here. The superstitious athlete in is the other reason I'll give you no answer. If you don't understand that I'm not going to beat my head against the wall trying to explain it to you. You seem like the kind who won't accept a simple explanation anyway. Incidentally over the last day or so I have done a search on the topic and found the answers. I was hoping you'd come back with the same information that I was able to find. So far, no luck.

No one is sitting in a closet cowering terrified or handicapped by any actions taken to protect themselves. Don't blow your argument out of proportion. It is wildly inaccurate. I carry. The chances of actually using my gun are minuscule (just like being sued over a holster) but that one time I need it, I'm prepared. According to your reasoning I have no need to be carrying (and no need for liability preparations). Is that right? As far as I'm concerned there is no distinction between "tactical gear" and any other gun leather (concealed carry, cowboy action, IDPA, hunting, range use). They all involve real guns that shoot real bullets. The handling and safety requirements are paramount.

No one is caving to thugs. And part of conducting a legitimate business is registering said business with the state and (forgive me) the Feds. If that's not what you want then don't do it. But don't sit and name-call the rest of us because we care to take care of our business the way we see fit. I don't have the answer to how many lawsuits are brought against leatherworkers. Do your research if you really need to know. If you'd like said research to prove your point that we don't need to protect our business affairs, well I'm going to tell you not to waste your time because you're not going to change my mind anyway. If you want to know for your own personal satisfaction...

I like terms and conditions, I just don't put up complicated versions First and foremost I require full payment up front. There are no orders without payment, period. A customer is not only buying my material goods, they are buying my time. I am on the clock the minute payment arrives in my possession. The complication of T&Cs will probably vary by the type of work being done. For gunleather my rules are basic. That is because my work does not generally involve a personal or completely unique element. If one guy doesn't buy the item I can sell it to someone else. For requested items I don't advertise as a normal item I think long and hard before committing to build it. Part of that is because my time and skill is better spent on my patterned items. A few slight changes or additions I'll agree to do. Changes like that I do label as a custom order and as such it will not be eligible for any kind of refund or exchange. It makes the customers think long and hard about their ideas and most of all, their money. I don't like chasing my tail on orders. I'm laid back and easy to work with but I'll say no. Overall I think the best Term and Condition is to discuss every aspect of the order to get to the bottom of the details before saying yes or no. When it comes down to any dispute, the trail of email communication is the judge. If it was stated in the email, it is the contract.

I use glossy photos of my work with my name and website and email printed on it. I can't tell you how many double takes and compliments a good business card gets. Its the perfect hook after a good handshake introduction and a friendly conversation. I intentionally do not list my address or number. If I want that particular person to have my number I'll write it on the back.

Exactly. An LLC in Texas is $300 to set up...oh wait $308. Not a lot of beans for managing the risks.

You don't need to buy 10 hides. Go to the Springfield Leather link at the top and get the size piece you need. As for IWBs use 6/7oz. What you dd there is way too light unless you're using it in conjunction with a kydex or other rigid material. I use 4/5oz on my steering wheel wrap BTW I've got a ton of those undyed holsters to try out patterns. Nice job. The first prototype is a huge step in getting to your finished model.

To know what kind of hornet's nest you might get into is as simple as looking at the politics of guns in America. Without going into a long post, because it will be full of passion that will probably rub a few people wrong, do not underestimate the seriousness of what you can get into. This might be just "leathercraft" to some folks but to others it goes a lot deeper than that. You can get sued for anything anytime. That doesn't mean you're in the wrong. Just means you have to defend yourself. Take the responsibility of preparing to defending yourself. Now where have I heard that before?

Never worked with Barge but from what I hear you should be fine. I use WeldWood with great results on shark I actually dye any pieces that will be glued together and edged before gluing. This ensures that my glue line will be dyed as well. Really you only need to dye the edges of the pieces being glued. Makes for less dry time and produces the same visual result. I mark the stitch lines with a groover just enough to see where I'm going. I don't really put a groove in the shark but I'm using a machine so the foot imprints the groove for me. Use the same color string to stitch as your finished product and you'll be fine. Burnishing is just the same. Just get a good glue down and you're good to go. I use full strength Resolene so I can't comment on BagKote

Setting your business entity is a real good first step to protecting yourself. I'm more than glad to have done this. I got that good piece of advice not to long ago and I sure appreciate it. It's a real small price to pay compared to what can be brought against you. Another step, while probably not applicable specifically to the business is a personal umbrella. At the very least you are protected in your innermost financial layer. Last and certainly not least is squaring away a lawyer. That will help tremendously and take the guesswork out of sorting your affairs. Kman, I thought of you the other day when I met the extended family of my new neighbors. Play me tune guitar man? Oh before I veer off topic, I send along specific steps to fitting holsters. First thing: UNLOAD GUN We can all have all the time in the world spent on drills and technique but one brain fart will ruin your day, your underpants and possibly your life. Be sure to enclose a GOOD, SPECIFIC, NO NONSENSE set of instruction with all your holsters. It'd be a better plus to get your lawyer to edit a good legally written version to go with.

Rhome, beautiful work. I've got some brown "lizard" in there I'm waiting to use. I do think you need to build a matching wallet and mag pouch to go with. You know, accessorize

Ring's 3" Springfield Micro will work for all your 3" 1911 needs. Safety off hammer down molds will not hurt your holsters. I've had not one holster come back for complaints it knocks the safety off. My own personal holster does not knock the safety off. Don't over think it. As for using the actual gun, I add extra oil then wrap in saran wrap and mold away. When you pull the gun out, unwrap, wipe down with some Hoppes 9 and lightly reoil.

- use your hands, fingers and thumb to find the major lines When you have enough moisture in the leather it will form around the gun easier, especially if you do not use a press. - get the leather wet enough Everyone says don't get it too wet but if you don't get it wet enough, you're essentially tooling. And unless you're good at tooling you're going to have problems. Wet enough leather will allow you to find all your lines. So find them with the leather wet. And don't go directly to the sharp edge either. Use a flat side of your boning tool to sort of press up against the line you need. This will give you the edge that you will later define with your sharp edge. And if you screw up you have enough moisture in the leather to work it out. The wet will dry. An hour or two later you'll use your sharp edge to draw your lines. They will set because some moisture has evaporated off. Let the holster dry to your next step. Right before you pull the gun out take your sharp edge again and trace your lines. This will more or less burnish your line and it gets a crisp definition. Viola. Boning. - use a tool you're comfortable with I only have one boning tool and made it specifically for boning the holster. Using one tool has allowed me to get skilled at using it to the point I can do several things with it. It doesn't matter what it is so long as you know how to use it and it does the job you need it to do. Don't be afraid to experiment. You'll never learn if you don't. Do the things that everyone says not to do. See for yourself. Then you know how to get different effects and results.

100% Resolene

Golly Bruce, you do some nice work, especially on Glocks. I have trouble with that darn straight line down the slide

Have her look at several sites and find something she likes. I build holsters for the M&P 9/40c, my husband carries it. Pics are in my sig line below. Good luck in your search

Hermann Oak