Shorts

Randyc and olliesrevenge -

Get crackin: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cummins-conversions-shop-talk-tools-fabrication/ Dodge for as long as I can remember have had crappy front ends. You end up renting them really As for the interiors I think Chevy won that battle. I found my K1500 to be pretty comfortable. I'd prefer a Chevy interior on a Cummins engine. The nice thing about these big three trucks is there is a real good aftermarket market. You can find all kind of goodies for the truck from top to bottom, head to tail. And I stand corrected on the DRW gears. Learn something new every day!

Nice clean work

It depends on when you are stitching your holsters. If you stitch before wet mold the standard plate works just fine. If you are wet molding before stitching, then you'd want a holster plate. The holster plate allows a formed holster to be stitched nice and tight to the molded form. There's been a time or two I've considered a holster plate in order to change my process. But none of my regular designs need it. If your build process and holster design dictates that the holster be formed before stitching then go ahead and grab it.

Wonderful. I meant drawing the outlines too. I mark the stitch lines on the inside with a Sharpie so I know where to put my glue on both pieces . They don't show

I'm talking about drawing lines, the discovering the mistake and flipping the pattern correctly and redrawing. If you drew the pattern on the same piece of leather as the mistaken lines sometimes you see the ink criss-crossing on the inside of the holster. You can get away with it if the color is dark and the lines are lower down in the holster instead of right around the mouth area or on the sweat shield.

Ball point on the back. And drawn lines shouldn't matter on either side if you're doing your edges properly. Or if you screw up and draw a left hand instead of a right hand

If you're looking at Dodge 2500 Cummins for towing, look for an 04-05 w/ 6spd tranny. These years also get the best mileage out of the 3rd gen trucks. I've got an '06 2500 48RE4x4 that I've been happy with as my daily driver, weekend workhorse. The 12v truck are 94-98.5 - The 24v trucks ran 98.5-02 (2nd generation) - these use the VP44and lift pump. These guys had trouble with the IP when the ULSD came out. There was just less lube for the pumps. You'll want to run an additive (SuperTech TCW3 is very effective for the cost). The heat under the hood also ended up killing the plastic control module for the electronics of the pumps too. Dad's '99 is on it's third IP and LP in 180k. Been a dang good truck aside from that (dad's a farm guy). The common rails are 03-09 - these use the CP3 injection pump. They're less susceptible to the perils of not enough lube that the VP44 truck had. Some changes came in '06 in regards to HP numbers and cosmetics. Then 07.5 came the 6.7L in lieu of the 5.9L. The new 6.7L are suppose to have a crapload of power compared the 5.9L but that's if you get that DPF/emissions junk off the truck. The stuff just chokes the heck out of the engine and causes more problems than it solves for a Cummins owner. The 6.7 trucks have a better auto tranny than the5.9l trucks have in regards to gearing. Its a 6spd compared the 4spd. All the duallys run 410 gearing. So if you end up with a DRW and manual tranny, you're going to have super low overall gearing. Some forums you can check out: www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/index.php www.cumminsforum.com/forum/ I also echo the comments about extra fuel filtration on the diesel trucks. Getting contaminated fuel will, in the least net you terrible driveability and at the worse, melt down your pistons from a stuck injector. I'm planning to ad the GDP 2micron filter kit. The FASS is a good system and has been around a while. a good FW separator goes a LONG way in keeping these trucks on the road.

I wouldn't. Instead just final fit the holster if it's too tight to draw. You have two options. If the fit is close enough to the draw you want, place the gun in the holster for a few hours. If the fit is still really tight to draw, wrap it in saran/wax paper/plastic baggie and place the gun in the holster. Obviously use common sense on which is thicker and how much room you need to gain in the holster for the right draw. I would start small with the saran wrap. I like wax paper as a fitting medium because it slicks the leather really nice inside. Do not get the holster wet. There is no need.

For my belt leather I've started ordering backs so I can forgo the extra bellies. I'm thinking of doing similar for my holster leather. I should have bellies as well. I'll see about getting them in order and sending you details. No use the stuff sitting here when they can be getting used.

I'm ordering from Texas Custom Dies as well.

speedymetals.com or your local supply shop.

Moleskin is often used on the backs of IWB holsters for comfort. It does wear out and peel off but you can replace it as necessary.

I think at that point I'd hand over a piece of leather and some tools - go right ahead and make it exactly how you want it

Mold

Thank you. If you try to fold two pieces of leather over the buckle you'll have to thin out both pieces before folding. Otherwise it's a big thick leather sandwich that doesn't want to fold. It can be done and some makers use this method. It's not my preference though - much quicker for me to go single. Find what you like and go with it.

Cut the inside liner short and fold the top piece of leather over to secure the buckle. Many makers including myself build belts this way.

Scratches make it to the leather in all steps of handling. From sliding around at the warehouse to sliding around on your table at home. Sometimes when you run the piece through your stitching machine it gets scratches from the edge of the sewing platform (if it is attached). Scratches happen but to keep it to a minimum you gotta not slide the leather around on stuff that will scratch it To see scratches on the top grain you hold it to the light so you can view the reflection off the leather. Any scratches will be visible through the smooth reflection/shine.

I finally got some 1" plate today. I think I'm going to figure out and build anew upper cross member so I don't have to lift/remove that plate each time I need to punch out a piece. The guys on the welding forum suggested a tool die press plate design that utilizes side posts and spring to support the top plate. I think that is overkill and frankly it limits the working space I'd have. What I originally thought I'd do is build this:

I finally caved and called Steve. He had me lower the needle in the bar about halfway then stitch. So far not dropped stitched. What this did was tell him and me that the hook needs to be brought forward just a little bit more. I'll get that done in a bit. Overall, glad to know what the problem was. I intentionally held off from calling Steve to see if I could work through the problem. It looks like I was on the right track but stopped just a little bit short. Back to work...well, not for me yet. I'm going on vacation as soon as I get these orders packed up to ship. Ahhh sweet release - a margarita on the rocks please.

Thanks SharpShooter. I was looking at them wondering how I'd need to convert for the dies (without expensive trial and error ordering parts). I appreciate the details.

Well I tried adjusting the hook timing some more to see if I could stumble onto the magic formula but I got nothing. She still drops a stitch. I messed with the tension up and down, top and bottom and I just don't know. And did you know it's Friday?? I thought it was Thursday. I really need to go on vacation. I'll have to crunch this last order out so I can fall out of the world for a while.

I watched the DVD today, still up here matter of fact. I checked that the cams were in correct timing, they were. I checked that the presser feet hit the needle plate at the same time, they didn't. I adjusted them per the dvd instructions. I checked the hook timing. It was slightly behind so I adjusted it, again per the dvd instructions. I pulled the hook out and cleaned everything up in there. I put everything together and hoped things would smooth out. But it didn't. I'm playing with the tension now. I left the cover off the bobbin so I can watch the things move in there. On the dropped stitches it looks like the fatter part of the hook near the eye pushes the thread out of the way and the tip of the hook can't catch the loop. I'm getting some video clip as soon as I get the battery recharged. I'm wondering if I need to advance the timing a little more so the hook can be consistent. When did my stitching machine turn into my hot rod?

They'd be terrible. Please stack all logs out front and I'll swing by and remove that scrap wood for you Actually you can give it a shot. Most folks end up using beeswax and/or parafin when they burnish so the lack of oils becomes moot. For the last several years I've been using a burnisher I made from a cheapy dowel rod the home hardware store. Edges are easy to burnish with about anything when they are prepped right.

Oh man, that's a pretty good deal! The way you're using your top plate is also what I'm doing right now with my small piece of plate that came with the the press. Now since I need a bigger plate to cover my bigger dies I thought I would fab a new top crossbeam w/integrated top plate in lieu of cutting off/using the original cross beam w/ram rod. I thought by doing this I'll get a more even application of force on the die. Plus I won't have to remove/replace the plate every time I punch a piece which gets tedious with one hand. Well, I have a plan I guess. Now I have to execute