Shorts

Thanks guys. I'm comparing prices on several thicknesses of plate from several suppliers up here. I don't understand how a fraction of an inch can make the price vary so much. But I don't know anything about steel work. I need to stumble on some good scrap (read: cheap and free). Looks like 1/2" is the smallest I should go. Bruce, those 1" plates are probably about 40lbs each right? Is the top welded directly to your crossbeam under the cylinder? You probably have some hefty return springs on it right?

I thought 'dropping stitches and cutting thread' was a pretty good description of the symptoms. I don't think the 207 white thread I'm using is too rigid for the 7/8oz Herman Oak. I'm skeptical of the size 24 needle being too big for the 207. As I stated in the first post, I dropped from a size 25 needle on this very same thread and I was having no problems cutting the thread. Though it was dropping a stitch now and then. I'll adjust that top tension. The timing I have begun to suspect too. We'll start there.

Well now the drop stitches are even more fierce. Still no go. I had to hand walk the machine to get this current order done or else I'd still be there messing with it. This was the 3rd time I restitched this holster I was watching in the gap there of the machine - when the top thread drops down and makes the loop that the hook is suppose to catch, it looks like the top loop isn't big enough and the hook just flies right by. What does that mean?

Thanks Wizcrafts. I'll recheck everything. Needle is brand spanking new and I'll wind a new bobbin.

Cobra Class 3 207 top & bottom size 24 needle I switched from 25 to 24 in order to change the look a bit but since I'm having a lot of trouble with the needle cutting thread on stitch backs at the beginning and end of my stitching. Also having trouble getting the bottom hook to grab the thread to make the knot and the stitch ends up dropping. Is there a way to get this to work or am I going to have to switch back up to a size 25 needle? This is really me off.

Thank you gentleman The simplicity plays tricks on me. I get the feeling like I skipped a step or two. So far, they keep coming out o.k.

Seems like when one person orders a certain model it sets off a chain reaction. Been building quite a few of these lately.

What's the minimum thickness top and bottom plates need to be (on a 12T) for a clicker press. I prefer the plate stay good and flat over time.

Nice. I agree, way to clean - get to work!

Alright, now that it's been mentioned, what is everyone's definition of a "custom" holster and a "production" holster? The majority of holster makers, I'm thinking, make a large portion of their revenue from what I would consider "production". I see production as a patterned piece. I see custom as a one off, unpatterned piece, or a holster made from a patterned piece that's be tweaked on a customer's request, and doesn't qualify for an exchange or refund. But I'm a hard nose.

Oh and don't be too hard on yourself if you have a little trouble at first. There's a bit of a learning curve so if you need tips and secrets, feel free to ask away. I'd be glad to help you get it right.

I think you're just scared to try it in your own shop.

Show me how its done. One hand it.

lol That's only one of my fantasies

Who are you calling "Shorts"? I'm fixing to build me a new workbench. I've done one already for the garage to test the pattern. Worked out fine but i have a few tweaks. It is a good tip about the solid core door. Craigslist rocks!

Well I don't work at a belt factory, probably a good thing. My one hand and I take a little more time I guess. I'm going to step off this thread. I've been in a bad mood for a few days. I'd sure hate to get my bad mood on something else.

Gun belts seem to take me forever. Looking at my build notes total time is just under 3hrs. The parts that really drag in my build is thinning the hole end then edging and burnishing. I sit and think angry thoughts that entire time I do those The only time stitching is a problem is 1. running out of thread and 2. dropping a stitch

I've commandeered one of the small bedrooms upstairs for my shop. It works. It's not terribly dirty but it could use a cleaning. I vacuum in there once a week. Where the dust collects is on the wall, the blinds, base board ledges, fan blades...etc. At this point in time it's not a big deal. Surfaces can be wiped down for a thorough cleaning. As for the nice new carpet that's in there, it's not a big deal. I'm not careless but I do have some dye spots and splatters and smudges in my dye area. Overall we're not light-colored carpet fans. We'll be pulling it out for hardwood so not a big concern to keep it pristine but I still take care of it. Things happen. Dwight has a good idea about laying down a simple floor. I was thinking of doing the same. An option besides wood flooring is some composite squares like they have at the gyms/fitness centers or for the garage. Buy as many as you need and click them together. Since its a pretty small area it won't break the bank. I think my area is 10'x11', plus a 3'x2' closet IIRC. I don't have my press in there, it is in the garage. I don't have room for it. I'm starting to think about building a bigger workbench and some more shelving. The trick will be getting it in the room. I'll have to build it in pieces and assemble it in the room. No way what I want to build will fit through the door, much less up the stairs. And for a little fantasy time, I've though about where in the yard I can build a sweet detached workshop

Just an update, plus a question. My order is in and being built for one of my fullsize patterns at Texas Custom Die. It's running $60 (plus shipping). I think that's reasonable. As for the question, I've got a bunch of this garden metal edging I'm about to pull up. Can that material be used instead of new metal banding? Just curious. I figure while I've got the stuff might as well experiment. Also, where do you buy metal banding from? Do they just have that at home depot or the like?

This method is crossing my mind as I read customer questions and communication. Seems people just don't read or look for the information on the website. This morning I woke up with a real short fuse which may be motivating this idea. There are pros and cons to this method compared to taking individual orders. I'm not clueless as to what some are but I'd like to hear some discussion on the topic. There may be something I have not considered and new light may be shed. So what do you think of making production runs vs taking individual orders?

Make sure to get the leather wet enough that you can feel where the gun lines are. Press them good. From there, plus looking at a pic of the gun for reference, draw your lines. Some of it is going a bit on faith but once you get the feel, you'll do better. I just did an M&P40 and the lines felt very shallow. The holster was molded though. Retention is there.

Yup - what BOOMstick said. Now I have a 9, 40 and two .45s. I've got each marked off for the short mags so I can build the appropriate size mag pouch for the compacts. The 36 is of course the single stack .45acp. The difference between 9mm and .40 Glock mags is around .005" by my dinky caliper measure (width and depth). It makes double mag pouches easy, especially using a retention screw for the fine adjustment as well as making a tight wet mold/dry.

CompTac clips are all gone

Definitely a good question. Which brings me to another, what's the life expectancy range for a gun belt (leather only, no kydex reinforcement)? Belts are worn for years. But are they worn for years because they last? Or are they worn for years because the owner gets use to it and doesn't see how its gone from strong to not so strong over time? I wonder what the mathematical equation is for support for weight over time? :brainbleach:

Knock yourself out. Like I said I'm interested to see what your experiment shows. I'm not saying which way is better. The "I believe" starting out my sentence is of the "the thought behind" what, as you said, "they say".