Shorts

Hmma quick google of "rivet squeezer" and "setting a solid rivet", you might be able to set a copper rivet with one of those hand squeezers. But having never tried it, I have no idea. I think you'd need good leverage. If I were you I'd send a email off to those sites customer servoie and see if they can answer the question.

I'm thinking I might have to do that. A failure of the top plate support could cause some equipment damage in the least, and bodily damage at worst.

I purchased a 12T press from Northern Tool a little while ago with the intention of using it as a clicker press. Over the last couple months I got my materials and tools together to get the press modified. I initially planned on using 1/2" plates but after lots of discussion I went to 1". The price was not near as bad as I saw quoted online once I stopped by a steel supply house. By changing plate thickness I've now upped the weight of the component by 20lbs. I didn't trust the chincy washers holding the return springs that were spot welded with ~50lbs of suspended free weight, plus the force the jack applies. So that's why I changed that. The idea The process Materials: 4"x1.5" C-channel, (2) 12"x12"x1" steel plate, 3/8" eyebolts, 2"x2" sq tubing Edged bottom plate Cut off spring mount washers, install eyebolts Grind welds Drill eye bolt holes (hand drilled, yes, crooked. Hoping the lateral/angle force doesn't kill the eye bolt). Sq.tubing drilled for eye bolts. Plate and tubing prepped Welded (used stick 6011, too hot and too fast) Installed eye bolts C-channel guides cut ...and welded FCAW (both pieces were beveled and prepped after I found my good metal file) Hung. I'll get the jack back on there today I wanted to see what the weight would do to the springs and see if anything fell off during the night. So far everything's in tact and the springs haven't extended from the original measurement. My critiques on the work: - I plan to prep and paint the pieces. - I don't like that crooked eye bolt. - I didn't true one end of the sq tubing so the C-channel piece is kind of crooked - I wish I stick welded better. May grind that all out and redo it again at a later date

Don't be intimidated. Every one of us in business today started by drawing that first holster we wanted for ourselves. Grab a pencil and some manilla folders and have fun.

I use waxed nylon thread for handstitching. I was stitching 6/7oz and up.

The reminds me, if one goes too far shaping the holster it will actually be too loose on the gun when being worn. The affect is the opposite of pulling the wings back that make the mouth close. Instead the wings get pushed out and the mouth opens. I built a holster for my dad and I put a little more curve into it than was necessary for him. I watched it happen. On me the holster holds the gun snug. On him, it's loose on the gun. It needs to be realized that there is a happy medium that must be achieved.

I grabbed some aluminum straps the last time I picked up some steel stock for the garage. I was using belt mocks ups but they became too flimsy when I needed to form belt channels on my holster models that were a little tight. The aluminum is rigid and holds form, and nonporous so I don't have to worry about breakdown or swelling/shrinking.

I form my holsters during wet mold. Just lay them over my quad and give firm gentle press before I set them to dry. Since I cannot see the girth of my customer I have to mold to a generic shape, not to tight, not too wide. Basically curve enough that the slots on OWBs are even with the back of the holster for the belt. For IWBs I curve enough that the holster mouth doesn't get pulled down tight when the front wing is curved/being worn. More or less I eyeball it and have a shape I'm comfortable with sending them out. I have considered getting a mannequin torso, especially to help on the shoulder rigs, but I don't think it's worth the cost or trouble. If you shape the holster just enough the customer should be able to wear it in the rest of the way without ill effects.

Bronson, any pics of the finished mold? To cast a solid piece you need to make a sandwich out of the blocks and gun, with a dowel pressed in to form the pour channel. So put a block down, press in the gun, then press in a dowel so that it touches the edge of the gun (I would put it in an area not important to molding a holster, like the bottom of the grip so it can easily be ground down). Before you put the top block on you'll need to spray both faces with some kind of lube that prevents the blocks and gun from sticking to each other. Then press the two together. When you're satisfied, pull them apart. You should have a matched mold set. Once that cures you're ready to pour the resin. When you pour the resin, keep them wrapped up together tight so the blocks don't move. Pour the resin into the channel made by the dowel slowly and make sure you have no air bubbles. Something you can do to help with alignment is press is a couple of short dowel pieces vertically into the mold be used as alignment pins. Or use a cardboard box the same size as the blocks. I did a stint of playing with molds and casting. Overall the trick is to get familiar with the materials you're using and you can make some decent stuff. You will have to decide about the cost of materials and how it works out for you. But if you can do it, do it. I never tried Alumilite but I read a lot about it and it would have been my choice.

Yeah, I do give them an estimated time for when their holster will be going on the table. It gives them something to think about and a reason to stay with you. I'm also discovering that it gives them time to change their orders and add on to their original plan. This is a positive in that you're upping business; a negative in that it throws all your time estimations out of whack for every customer you communicated with after them. That can put you in a crunch. But you can build in some fluff time when you mention dates. It also makes you look good when you get it done before the time frame you told them

That's exactly what I adjusted from. I didn't like having payments in my possession and I was starting to crawl up in turnaround time. Now with this email when an order is going on the table, it gives me an easy 1-2wk window. I found I was pretty stressed having payments in my possession because my turnaround clock started as soon as I got it. And I don't like to have someone elses money and not be active on an order. Aside from keeping pressure off me, it also keeps the customer a bit more settled since they still have their money and are not "waiting" because they sent payment.

Also don't forget you'll need to still get a hold of the real gun in order to mold. I think this process would be worth it for a rare gun or one that has not been put into mold form yet by the manf. Be aware that there is a patent that holds ownership of any gun mold made from epoxy resin/plastics and essentially corners the market if you tried to sell these. You either need to get a license and pay royalties to the owner or keeping the molds for yourself.

Go ahead and post your holsters on the forums. That's how I got myself started. In regards to orders and payments, I just adjusted my process again. Always get payment before starting a holster. I have orders on file and when it's time for that order to be put on the table I email the customer with their detailed quote. If they still want to purchase they'll send payment, if not they are under no obligation. Most important of anything is be up front and in communication with the customer about what you're doing. Most folks are understanding of the process and are willing to let you do your work.

Thanks Reaper

I've been wondering if 1. I should get a brace and 2. if it'd hinder my dexterity much. I might just have to grab one and see. Especially with the cool weather lately, everything hurts.

Dye and top coat are my final steps. I hate to dye a holster before wet mold. The dyed leather grabs my boning tool and makes it very difficult to get a nice smooth line. Not to mention dye residue all over my sponge pads and stitchin' machine platform, hands, clothes or anything else it touches while being built. As said, it's a preference so find what you like and do it.

I have one hand. I started out handstitching and took at least two hours to stitch a holster. I did that about a year then decided I best get a machine. I machine stitch now for efficiency. It's also a health issue. Having only one hand to use for everything in my life, the wear and tear is very accelerated on my good hand. I've got light arthritis and I think carpal tunnel (I refuse to go to docs unless I'm carted there by the wagon) but it sure hurts a lot.

Hmm, that's tough to say really without watching each individual try to draw. Some of my customers are larger fellows but I haven't heard anything about difficulty drawing from IWB. Just throwing out wild guesses I'd say position and cant might have been not suited for their particular limberness. If they had the belt cranked down it would also hang into the gun too but that's not something that shouldn't be overcome. Really, if their love is hanging over the gun and holster, it's going to be difficult. I'm leaning towards a draw stroke and cant to help alleviate it. But the truth is all holsters fit better when a person can be in better shape.

Hmm, it's very possible. I didn't know they reformulated. I did this belt in '08 and the EcoFlo line was pretty new. The black tended to be a real dark blue on some leather. That can be seen a little bit on this belt in the right light. I haven't purchased any new EcoFlo dyes since. I switched to Angelus once we got stateside and be using that.

haha The answer is yes and no. Clear as mud! I used the EcoFlo SuperSheen (IIRC) to seal it (term used loosely based on results). How'd you top coat/seal yours?

lol LEOs don't have to run around hiding their guns like us peasants though No offense meant to the LEOs. Just saying folks are hoplophopbic unless you give them a badge or credential that makes them relax that you're "ok" to have a gun Yeah I bet the guy was just use to the thicker leather. I've made a couple of holsters from 8/9oz and that stuff just felt huge. Jeff you did a nice job on the second version there. I like dickf's input in regards to your specifics questions raised by your buddy. You addressed things just fine.

I've got several bottles here if you want. Look at my thread here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=24021 Ignore the prices there and PM me. We'll work it out.

I used EcoFlo dyes when I first started because I couldn't air ship anything else. I still wear a single layer belt I made with the Coal Black. And every single time I get rub off on my jeans, shorts and body parts. Do not use if the item is going to be sweated on. You will get rub off.

No. Nice thing about patterns and guns is you can normally adapt one model for another by adjusting the mouth height and stitch lines. Usually one test build to work out the exact spacing on the lines and viola, pattern done.

My stitch lines are drawn on my manila folder pattern. I lightly prick the lines with an awl, then lightly trace the lines. Same pattern every time and gives you an accurate location to adjust from if the pattern is too tight or too loose.