Shorts

Very cool What Mike is referring to on the scope is that constant jostling around against the leather can alter the settings on the scope or knock the scope on its mount (making it a little crooked even though its still attached). I also would like to offer a suggestion if you don't mind a little constructive criticism. For safety it would be a good idea to cover the trigger guard with the leather instead of having an open cut out. If your husband is out in the brush, an inadvertent snag on branches can get caught in there and possibly cause a discharge (assuming the safety is off). Anyhow, stranger things have happened and ADs result and injure. So....might be something to consider Keep up the good work. I've yet to put together a shoulder holster but I've got my pieces lined up.

Randy, that color you've mixed up with the browns is beautiful. I'm with Mike, you sewed it all backwards For the boning, it'll come the more you do it. It's almost like a catch 22 - to get crisp lines you'll need to use a rounded flat edge, like a butter knife shaped smooth piece of plastic/acrylic/antler/metal etc. But when you're first boning with leather you do your darndest not to scratch it with anything and use rounded smooth tools to work. To get the marks all in the right place, you'll have to go to a finer-edged instrument....like the precision butter knife Here's my shank..err, boning tool. I formed it out of a strip of acrylic

The one I use is 2 3/8"~2 1/2" long...I guess size 46 according to websites.

Well, making some booboos is a learning opportunity. The longer you keep doing leather, the more booboos you'll make and the more you learn - it doesn't stop! I use the things I posted in your What Tools Are Needed thread For needles I use Harness Needles size 000

I've put off sewing exotics because of the difficulty to mention. I'm going to take it up after getting a machine.

That dowel looks exactly like my dowel! You're very welcome.

Good work on the holster. It came out nice. Keep working on the edges, they'll come around as you domore of them. Instead of the drill, you might go back to a dowel/stick/antler until you get ahold of a custom bit (some folks make custom woodel burnishing dowels for the drill). I use a well-worn dowel

I don't line my holsters

I second the handstitching book by Stohlman. It details the steps and has very good illustrations. That's how I got started. It takes a little practice to get smooth but once you do, you're set. I prefer the awl punch compared to the drilled holes.

Oh isn't that the truth. I have that Texas fever now being overseas for 3 yrs! Now there are some things that a girl just shouldn't say to a guy, but Randy, I'm going to do it anyway... It's so cute!

lol I had the same sentiments for the G21 order I had The leather looks good though

Using blue guns, even real guns, a hydraulic press isn't used to max capacity. It will crush. A few here have worn out blue guns IIRC. And I wouldn't want to be the one to destroy a real gun. I can venture to guess that 110lbs is minimum. Because, at the moment, I use some pads and backing boards and I am the press You can even use a binder book press if you wanted. Those are available here and there. Use your discretion when determining how much force you apply, it doesn't need to be huge. As I mentioned, I use my own body weight right now. A press setup would just add a bit of class to my workroom lol Find one that works for you as far as side goes.

Some makers use their press, on the removal of the gum pads, as a clicker.

Just a light go of isopropyl ought to do you just fine.

That came out very well. I love that color. A helpful suggestion if you don't mind??? On the straps, instead of the corners, try rounding them off. It will help from having an edge to bump around plus it allow the aesthetics to flow and match the rounds of the top and bottom of the holster. Nice work, you're doing great!

Great holsters! Looks like they use a hidden loop sort of arrangement? Very neat! On the dye, it may be worth a try to wipe down the surface leather to clean it before applying the dye. That should get any surface contaminants off that may be interfering with the dye.

BUMP - excellent info that doesn't go out of style

I got started with this: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...number=11189-00 http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/product...?number=9051-01 Add a 7/8oz shoulder of veg tan ...a utility knife...I use like the orange one on the left there That's all you need...the hardware, dye, and finish is optional

Good info on this thread. I'm going through my books now and trying to figure out what exactly I want to do and how do I do it. I'm currently using downloaded templates as my foundation and I would like to upgrade a bit to become more efficient and more accurate in my reporting. I'm especially interested in the "inventory assembly" aspect. Between QuickBooks and MS Accounting, are there appreciable differences in the two?

1. Do you dye the leather before or after molding and boning? I don't. I dye after the molded/boned holster is dry. But I use water-based dyes so, the nature of the beast, I dye after. Some makers dye before molding. The process depends on your preference and the type of materials (mainly dye) that you use. 2. Where is the best place to start the boning. I have not figured out how to find the ejection port and other lines that would need to be boned. I press to find the curves of the gun. Once you become familiar with the grooves of a particular model gun, you get better at boning. It'll take a little practice to get the feel of the gun edges under the leather with your tool. I prefer using hot-warm water, I feel it makes the leather more pliable. Keep in mind, if the water is too hot to keep your hand in comfortably, it is too hot for the leather. Leather WILL scald and burn if the temp is too much. That will sap the oils from the leather and it will dry stiff and brittle. 3. When letting the holster dry to you leave your unloaded and wrapped gun in or do you take it out. The gun/mold stays in the holster until the leather is dry on both sides and returned to its normal color. If you pull the gun from the holster and find there is no moisture on the gun, you're good. If you're using a real gun, wipe it down and oil it up. Overall, don't be afraid to try various techniques and methods to find what you like and what works for you. Everyone has a method to their madness. There isn't ONE specific procedure that should be used

WaG35, MikePatterson, for the sponge I use this 'gum sponge' I picked up from the hardware store across the street. There is a gum rubber with a durometer 40 rating that is most often used as a press (found at McMaster Carr). I have never seen/tried this yet so I cannot say if the sponge I use currently is the same. More than likely, it isn't, but it does the job for me. Essentially for the press, you just make a holster sandwich. The rubber pads are the buns, the gun in the wet leather is the meat. In the forum here there is a great thread with pictures of a tabletop press and setup. Letme look real quick...

I really like that - nice work Is that a rattler?

Thanks again everyone I assure you Tac, a 3yrold has been on my workbench too! My wet mold dip is warmed in the microwave so the leather becomes very pliable. As soon as the blue gun is seated, I take it immediately to press in my sponge pads then a tough up by hand. Once the leather around the gun looks like a sexy lady wearing an evening gown, I do a precursory bone with an acrylic tool (I formed and smoothed it specifically for hand boning my holsters, it looks like a smooth butter knife). I run my stitch wheel to pretty up the stitches. I set the holster to dry. A few hours later after the moisture has evap'd I trace the bone lines again to 'set' them. The holster is left overnight and in the morning, I do a final trace on the lines, which will also slightly burnish them. That's basically it for the molding/boning aside from pressing my stamp then moving to the dye, edge and finish stages. I might be wasting my time by running lines three times but, I don't mind, I like it and it works for me

Good stuff Randy. I've never tried my hand at pocket holsters - there are others who can do them much better than I - Nice work Tan Kote is a clear gloss finish

Every now and again I get a request for double stitching. I think it is unnecessary. What say you?