UKRay

Personally, I like a bench mounted cutter for webbing - it doubles as a cutter for nylon rope and I sometimes use that for dog leads. Mine is as old as the hills and needs replacing but it still works so I keep using it. I prefer the 'blade' type to the 'wire' type as it seems to give a cleaner cut. Like I said, I always burn the holes with an old marlin spike that has been kicking around the place for ages. It is tapered so I can judge how far to push it through to make the hole size right. I have a little camping gas stove and set the spike up on top for a while until it is hot enough. The spike handle is rope wrapped so I don't burn my fingers. Periodically I set fire to the rope and amuse people by rushing around the bench and dowsing it with the casing water. I like a little excitement now and again... I wouldn't spend 200 bucks on those tools if I were you. I'd save up and get a nice bench cutter and a cheap old marlin spike. Check this out: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BENCHTOP-HOT-CUTTER-...p3286.m63.l1177

Ed, go find yourself an old fashioned plumber. These guys are hauling lead pipe out of buildings faster than a quick thing. They know the value of it but in my experience can usually be convinced to do a deal. I get all my scrap lead from plumbers and pay a fraction of the price because I haul it away myself. 40lb of lead? Half that would be too much for making a lead block. Are you planning on casting a few lead soldiers at the same time? <grin!> Ray.

I got myself a rein rounder! Now about those DVDs... anyone got anything they don't watch anymore? How about machine feet?

I just spoke to Braithwaites, the UK suppliers for Highlead and their technical guy said the little circle of metal was simply a needle guard to stop people from poking their fingers under a descending needle. I said I didn't feel any urge to poke my fingers in there so the guy said there was no reason to keep it. Just for information, Braithwaites are the UK dealers for Highlead machines but they only stock a basic foot and suggest that anyone who needs anything different should file bits off the foot they supply until it does what the person requires. This seems a little savage to me but... Prices in the UK bear no relationship to US prices and, in the main, are much more expensive. Sadly the shipping costs pretty well kill any potential savings on bobbins and small stuff. The basic foot seems a fair bit cheaper than any of the feet sold in the US but tthere are no other accessories available. You can forget any kind of plate, harness foot etc. Ray

I have used a mains powered electric hot knife to cut webbing for belts and I guess that is much the same sort of thing. It can get a bit sticky and messy until you work out how hot the knife needs to be to cut the stuff and how fast you have to be not to leave half the webbing stuck to the knife blade.... I have also used a gas ring and heated spike to punch holes for eyelets. That worked too. What exactly did you need to know?

Lovely work as always, Dave. Sounds like you have been having fun... ...makes a change from computers doesn't it?

That is a great stool! I don't believe there is a 'correct' way to do the corners, Jim - but you may find a couple of ways that don't work. The design and carving is great and the colours are just right for the job. Nice work. Wish I could do that lacing... Ray

Steve, I don't mind who wears 'em as long as they pay cash! Thanks again for the kind words people. Ray

Thanks for the kind words, guys. I'm just glad people find these useful!

For one reason or another I didn't get around to doing that filing job today (got busy making stuff) but I'm planning on doing it asap. Anyone know why the little ring of metal is there on the foot? What purpose does it serve?

Thanks for the kind words guys. You are quite right, Luke. That is a tricky stamp to get lined up but it does look nice when you make it work.

I had some time to play and thought I'd see what I could do with wrist bracers. Thanks to Tom Swede for the inspiration. Any mistakes are entirely my own... The pouch is a design I've been making for years but they sell well so I keep doing 'em.

Somebody, I believe it was Badger, said they used a hacksaw frame but instead of a blade they used a tight piece of thick garden string coated in polishing compound to sharpen edge shaves. It works for me.

Nice question, John but far more complex than it appears on the surface. It seems to me that you have a number of issues running in tandem here: Issue 1: Who should claim credit for making an item - the company or the individual maker/s? Issue 2: Who should be responsible if the item fails - the company or the individual maker/s? Issue 3: Who 'owns' the intellectual property associated with the job - the company or the individual maker/s? Issue 4: Who 'owns' the moral right to the kudos for creating the work - the company or the individual maker/s? Issue 5: Who is the official maker when a job is a team effort? The situation can be likened to the Italian Rennaissance artworks which are attributed to a single artist but whch were actually created by a team of artisan pupils led by that artist. There is another parallel in the works of Henry Moore who would create a miniature sculpture and have his team of artisans copy it faithfully to create the full size piece of art. Nobody would argue that the sculpture was by Henry Moore even if he hadn't carried out the final polishing of the stone. Issue 1: Who should claim credit for making an item - the company or the individual maker/s? If you worked for a factory making refrigerators and you were responsible for soldering up the main wiring loom then you wouldn't try to calaim credit for making the refrigerator If you were the guy who designed the refrigerator then you wouldn't try to claim credit for making the refrigerator. If you were the guy who owned the company which owned the factory then you could reasonably claim credit for making the refrigerator simply because you owned the company - but the claim would be a lot stronger if you had designed the refrigerator and actually took part in the manufacturing process. Using artisans to carry out 'low grade' tasks makes sound financial sense and, in a commercial situation, does not affect the 'moral' claim to having made the item. Even if a highly skilled artisan is paid to do part of the job, the whole project would not, and could not, happen without the guy who owned the company and the factory. Issue 2: Who should be responsible if the item fails - the company or the individual maker/s? No question about this one - it is the company's responsibility. Okay, within the company someone may have to take some heat for any failure but overall the company takes the blame. Issue 3: Who 'owns' the intellectual property associated with the job - the company or the individual maker/s? Once again it is the company who owns the intellectual property. The company pays people to make its products. Issue 4: Who 'owns' the moral right to the kudos for creating the work - the company or the individual maker/s? Everyone who had a hand in the manufacturing process should slap themselves on the back and take pride in what they have made together. Issue 5: Who is the official maker when a job is a team effort? The official maker is the person or organisation who made the creation possible, who brought the team together and supervised the process and ultimately is responsible if the item or job fails. Just my thoughts and worth precisely what you paid for them...

What a fascinating Q&A. I can't honestly say I had ever thought of asking any of those questions but they (and the answers) certainly gave me pause for thought. Thanks Leerwerker.

The problem with branching out into a new type of leatherworking (in my case using a modern sewing machine) is that there are so many questions that need to be answered. Presser feet are just one example. I have looked at the various feet on sale by Artisan and others and wondered how many presser feet other people actually own and use? Do you all have a full set of these things or do you have a single foot that tends to get used for everything? Which presser feet are indispensible and what do you use them for?

It helps a lot, Bob. I'm going to take a file to the little hole in a few minutes simply because i can't see any reason not to. I suspect the 'hole' has a purpose that is not linked to leather - my foot is not a specialist leather foot, just the standard one fitted as new. It probably protects the needle from fabric 'rucking up' and jamming things up. Leather isn't going to do that so I feel quite safe. Your post has given me the confidence to do the obvious... Thanks.

The big one took ages before I could handle it without burning my fingers. Maybe an hour or two. I just left it in the yard and got on with something else for the rest of the morning.

I have two, Ed. One is for major thumping with crew punches and huge wad punches and the other I use for smaller tasks like punching oval holes in belts. The big critter is about 8" across, three inches thick and weighs as much as I want to move around. The little critter is about the same diameter but about 1" thick and doubles as a weight for all kinds of jobs. Both were made in an old enamel saucepan - I just poured less lead in for the smaller one. Easy stuff, but you really need to be so careful with boiling lead matie... It is hard to make briefcases when you have no fingers. I would go for the thickest mould you can find and make sure the finished lead block will drop out easily. I had to destroy a pan to get the lead out once because it had a dent that locked the lead in place... 4" thick is overkill IMHO...

Yet another marketing Knol. I hope you find it useful. This one is called Marketing, Displaying and Selling Handcrafted Leathergoods - Part V - Five Simple Steps to Getting Free Media Coverage Here is the link: http://knol.google.com/k/ray-hatley/copy-o...5pdr2mt/10#view

Loads of good advice, so many thanks friends! I'm a little afraid of filing bits off the machine at present but I recognise the value of all your suggestions. Currently my needle goes through a little hole in the foot which makes it pretty hard to see it enter the leather and harder still to keep the stitching accurate. I may just have to get rid of the hole - unless anyone can tell me why I shouldn't? Then the bit behind the needle can get a blob of red paint and hopefully I'm fit to go! I'm going to get a roller guide to help me get used to the way the machine works but I can see how Bob's hand control thing could work for me so I'll be trying that too. I do find myself fixating on steering the leather and forgetting to pedal 'slowly' so the machine gets faster and faster... Muchos scary! More practice, more practice, more practice.... LOL

Yup - to me!

I made mine myself, Ed. Lead will melt on the top of a stove - although it is best to do this job outside as the fumes are pretty noxious! I just melt up scrap lead from the junk yard and pour it into a suitable mould. I have a range of old enamel pie dishes that seem to work pretty well for me. When the lead gets chewed up all you have to do is stick it back in your steel pot and put it back on the stove and repeat the process. Not sure how Valerie is setting rivets with the lead block as I only use mine for punching holes and slots.

Thanks for looking guys, I'm not sure if this will produce any results but I'm keen to try! I'm looking for DVDs of holster making, knife sheath making - in fact almost any pre-owned leatherworking DVDs you might have around. If they are in good watchable condition I'm happy to pay a reasonable price for them plus shipping to the UK. (I particularly want the John Bianchi DVDs). I would like to find a rein rounder but I'm not fussy what size as I don't envisage using it a whole lot. Let me know what you have got plus a price. I am definitely in the market for: center groover/Left side/right side/blanket outside/blanket inside and double toe presser feet for an Artisan TORO-3000 or 4000 sewing machine. If it didn't work for you it might work for me! If you want to know what these look like then check out: http://www.artisansew.com/manualsfiles/Art...t%2005-2008.pdf Hope you can help, Ray

I have absolutely no response to that... LOL