UKRay

Hey Gremlin, nice to find another doghouse dweller! I'm Ray Hatley and I live in medieval Ludlow, England; right on the Welsh border. I'm new here too!

I can't believe how small the holes are, Luke. I confess I'm much more at home with a big fat 2" wad punch and a womping great mallet. For what it is worth the holes really are very clean. Ideal for fine leatherwork.

Thanks for all your help guys! The Tandy punch is exactly what I needed and Roy Fisher dispatched it really quickly. I like the tool a lot as it is really well made and nice to use.

This is the modern version of a Blackjack. Purchased, mail order, from the US along with a set of lock picks... I'm a writer okay? You have to do the research - honestly officer, you really have to do the research...

I tend to paint on gum trag mixed with a little dye to stain the edges an appropriate colour and then rub like fury (in one direction) with an old golf towel I stole from my father - he doesn't even play golf! If it is a strap then I pull the strap through a fold in the towel, anything else gets a good rubbing until the edge gleams. A trick I picked up from a guy who made a lot of 'inexpensive' belts was to use one of those liquid shoe polish applicators (they sell them for kids shoes) with the sponge on to apply your edge stain/sealer. You can always use the shoe polish straight from the applcator and that works well too as long as you don't mind using a stock colour. I'd like to try one of those Weaver edge staining gizmos - does anyone know anything about them? Ray Hatley

I couldn't agree more, Scouter, I recently sold a box full of old taps and dies and now need an obscure BSF (British Standard Fine) nut and an equally obscure machine screw for one of my treasured collection of ancient leather working machines. I know the right sized tap and die was in the box of junk I sold... now if I could only remember who I sold it to...

A huge achievement Skip - nice job! - I hope sales go through the roof for you.

Hi Corvus - I'm Luke's cousin in Ludlow UK. Its great to see more Brits on the forum. Where are you based in the UK? Ray Hatley

You might want to think about using a 1.5" to 2" thick block of lead as a surface to punch out your ovals, Ed. I just got a bit of scrap lead pipe, boiled it up in a 6 inch pan on the stove (watch for fumes) and turned it out when it got cold - instant solid cutting surface and it won't blunt your tools or break either. Cost is minimal and when it needs resurfacing just boil it up again. Just my thoughts and worth what you paid for 'em...

Having looked at all the previous Tippman Boss posts and bored 'cousin' Luke silly by asking daft questions, I am hoping the forum can help me make or break the decision to shell out a small fortune and ship a Tippmann Boss to the UK. I work almost exclusively in 10/12 oz leather (approx 4mm thick). Mostly russet tooling leather and waxy bridle leather and occasionally 2-3mm soft leather. Whilst my hand sewing is more than adequate for purpose, I can't say I get a heap of pleasure from it and felt the Boss might offer some advantages. Which brings me to the point of this topic: advantages and disadvantages are very personal. Some people seem to hate the Boss whilst others love it. Is this down to the way the machine is used/expectations of the machine/machine performance/longevity/ cost of ownership (repairs and the like). Why is there so much difference of opinion? Personal experience of stitching two or three thicknesses of 4mm with a Tippman Boss would be appreciated along with any suggestions, thoughts or comments about use and ownership - the more long winded the better! Over to you... ..and I really appreciate your time. Ray Hatley

I got somewhere near the mark... A really good challenge! Ray

Hey Tom, how do you 'say' Hnefatafl - is the H silent? Does the rest sound like felafel? A lesson in linguistics is called for here!

A superb and unusual playing board. I visited your website to find out more but I really struggled to understand the rules of the game as my French is very basic. Can you help with a translation? Ray

Drac, Your great looking show cases look about as secure as it gets to me so if you can lose stuff what hope have the rest of us got? Having said that, I did have a trick I used to use at shows to stop things being taken from the hooks along the front of the stall. I got one of those bells on a spring they make for parrot cages and rigged it with a line along the top of the hooks. It was pretty nearly impossible to get anything off the hooks without ringing the bell... But you had to watch out for low flying parrots <grin!>

I am making replacement narrow leather straps for a pair of ladies shoes and have hit a snag. None of my big old harness punches are anywhere near small enough to make the right sized holes for the tiny buckles and the smallest size on my rotary punch is waaay too big. The hole needs to be slightly less than 1mm in diameter through three thicknesses of 1mm leather. I don't want to use an awl blade as that will tear the leather and leave a poor finish to the hole - I need very tiny smooth round holes. Anyone got any ideas please? I thought about using a very sharp drill - has anyone done this? I can't afford to screw up as I only have enough of the right coloured leather for one attempt!

Hi Guys, Thanks for all the great suggestions. The reason for my question was that the cost of leather, dye and fittings keeps rising and it seems to me that anything we can do to 'add value' to our products in the eys of the potential customer has to be worth some effort. Personally, I sold my leather for many years from a simple 'trestle' table display with two side supports and a cross beam where I hung anything on a thong, plus belts and small bags. The frame was made from varnished pine with wooden pegs for the goodies. At the back of the table display I built a low (1ft high) wooden surround and used carboard boxes in tiers to give myself some height to display the more expensive stuff at the back - I'll use foam now I know better! The whole lot looked okay and packed down very small but I always wondered if there was anything thsat would be more effective. I'll be interested to hear other people's views on this as selling the things we make is pretty important even if it is only to buy more leather with the money! How do people sell leather at Renaissance Fayres in the US? I've seen a few pictures of amazing displays at those events but never a leather stall... R.

Have you displayed your work at shows and fayres and found all kinds of great ways to get a good response. I would be very grateful to learn from your pictures. In short, how should I display my leathergoods to get the best response? What are the best and most attractive backgrounds and lighting setups? Has anyone built a display stand that really made a difference to their sales. How should I display purses, keyrings and jewellery to catch the buyer's eye? Hopefully everyone has an opinion! Ideas would be great and pictures even better. Thanks guys. Ray

Having heard about 'dead blow' hammers elsewhere on the forum but never having seen or used one, I would like to hear from anyone who has experience of using these for tooling - especially with large stamps that tend to jump? Do they really reduce stamp 'bounce'? What is the best weight to buy and how should they be used to best effect? Are there any makes or types that are better than others? Any good contact details for purchase? Is it worth spending the money? Are there any better alternatives? Thanks in anticipation... Ray

Just want to confirm that these are what you are looking for, Mike:

Thanks for all your help people. I have contacted the good folk you suggested and hope to have my new stamp very soon. Ray

Mike, I have some English rein/bridle hooks that I will never use - would you like me to stick them in a jiffy bag and send them along? T'would be a pleasure. Send me a PM with your contact details if you would like them - I guess there may be enough for ten sets of reins. Ray Hatley

Chris, As an old time harness maker, I always use a lead block to cut strap ends and punch holes. You might find it easier to source some old lead pipe than a poundo board in Spain. I just boil all my lead scrap in an old saucepan and then let it set - you can then turn out an instant re-usable pounding block. Just boil it up again when the surface becomes unusable but be careful not to breathe in the fumes or let it splash - ouch!

We all complain when we get poor service but I'd just like to say thanks to Tippmann for getting my new embossing machine to the UK (and all the way to my door in the wild Welsh border country) in just four days from placing the order - and with a UK Bank Holiday in the middle. Outstanding service from Jim Miller and the Tippmann team. Thanks guys! (I can't get a delivery from most UK companies that quickly!)

I'm looking for a custom made 'maker' stamp to emboss onto my work. I can't find anywhere to get one in the UK - has anyone got any ideas - and how much would I have to pay to get something made? I would also be very interested to see examples of other people's maker stamps and, hopefully, look forward to recognising a few!

To answer my own question - as I just had a chat with Jim Miller at Tippmann who make the things - the old style rollers do fit the Tippmann/Weaver machines. The best bit is that the Tippmann machines do so much more than the old Tandy machine. If you haven't done so already check out: www.tippmannindustrial.com as their embossing video is really helpful. Anyone want to buy an old but very lightly used Tandy machine? Nah, didn't think so!