Gibbsleatherworks

Just another idea to pass on: I had been using a drill like that for a slicker, I just had a wooden thread spool with a bolt running through it. It was a pain to control so I found a 1/2" chuck at home depot that attached to an electric motor I had laying around. After chucking on a large, round, hard wood drawer pull, I mounted it to the work bench. It is much easier to slick edges now because I can use both hands for control.

Err sumthin

After some needle size searches I found that the Pfaff can take up to a size 24. The other three only had up to size 22 available. Would this hint at its ability to handle larger threads?

Thanks for the replys. Im still learning about machines so Im still unsure of the thread size I will need to use. Specifically I will be building motorcycle seats, sewing two pieces of 8oz or so together at very slow speeds.

Im looking at a few head units to replace my Singer 281-1 which wont run larger threads. Im looking to use 138 or 207 thread, I already have speed reduction and a servo motor. Heres a few heads that Im looking at, hoping for some good advice. Im leaning towards the Pfaff 545 but thought that a cyclinder bed could be useful too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=180384119109 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=260444538616 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=260449173110 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=260447415341

Great work as always David. Killer bike too. I read and commented on another discussion about black seats recently, and the same thought were passed around. Its definatly dissapointing to have to cover your art up.

Great thread, tons of great info. Im getting the fever to build a booth now. The lazy susan shown in the booth picture Kate posted is an upgrade Im doing today!

Wow, forgive me for attempting to help someone that asked for it. Thanks for chopping my legs out from under me. That was hurtful, I had assumed this was a friendly forum. Of course its always easier to find fault in someone than it is to offer a solution. And I expected more from a moderator.

Ive seen a few videos on youtube on sharpening and using the head "round" knife. sharpening sharpening cutting skiving Dont discount the box cutter with the stiff blade (not razor blade). With it cut in a couple of passes. Sharpness is essential. Theres a barbers trick to test for sharpness, rub the edge of the blade lightly and slowly over a damp thumb nail. To a barber, if it doesnt drag its not sharp enough. FWIW

If I can add something, I use the Tandy stitcher alot also for small stuff. When I used it for the first time I learned quickly that the needle isnt stiff enough to stay straight when punching the holes. I next moved to a simple ice pick that I sharpened, then used a plastic cutting board under it while pushing straight down. The plastic boards wont allow the awl to sink into it so the depth of the awl stays constant, as well as the hole diameter. A good awl like Marlon said is worth it. The handle of an true awl is surely safer to put your weight on than a simple ice pick. Someone asked about a groover...by using one, the stitch falls lower into the leather hiding very slight imperfections. Leaving a slightly cleaner looking stitch. It also protects the thread from abrasion and wear.

Ive also used 3M for linings in phone cases, holsters. Seems to work well. Like JustWakingUp said, be careful to not over apply and allow it to slightly dry before applying the fabric, less is more. Also protect the edges of the leather when spraying, its hard to remove the adhesive overspray. Try it on a sample to practice the amount of adhesive and the timing of applying the fabric. Barge's adhesive can be brushed on to offer better control.

Ive seen that tattoo flash before, always thought it would make a good seat, and it did! Great job. You got that eco flo antique to look good, thats tough to do.

Very cool, I dig it.

I had planned on using an old electric motor to mount a wooden burnisher on. Adding a round strope to the top of it would work the same way as your disk sander. Genious idea, thanks.

Two types of motors are used on industrial machines. First is the clutch type, it runs constantly at full speed when turned on and the clutch is engaged by press the foot pedal. Although you can feather the clutch slightly its difficult to maintain a speed slower than the motors max. A machines stich speed is determined by the motor rpm and the pulley size used. Second a servo motor is converted to D/C current which provides better torque. It is only running when the foot pedal is pressed and its rpm is dependent on the amount you press. Since it only runs when you press the pedal less electricity is used. Ive been doing alot of shopping for machines latley and found that you should be able to make a clean swap from a clutch motor to a servo motor for $100 to $200 (easily found with Google by searching "Industrial sewing motors servo"). The replacement should just bolt right on. And a pulley reduction system (more than one pulley) to slow down a clutch motor is close to that by itself. However, some clutch motors are already as low as 1750 rpm so if the pulley on the motor was changed to a very small one ($10), it can be slowed down quit a bit if your on a budget. Ive got a web site with a rpm calculator on my home pc I will try to post later. If you have the means, servo is the way to go. I have a contractor that repairs electric motors for me (water pumps) and he said there is a way to use a speed reducing circuit on a clutch style motor but its torque lowers as its speed lowers. When using a smaller pulley at normal speed it doesnt lower torque because it remains at full speed. But a servo motor provides the maximum torque at its slowest speed. Much like what leather workers need. One drawback to a servo motor is some dont have brakes. From what Ive been told, they use a reversal of current to slow and stop it. That could become tricky when trying to be intricate (doubtful if your going slow). Most newer ones have brakes. Hope this helps. Lastly this was pointed out to me when motor shopping, if you have a self oiling machine head and use a very slow motor (both servo and clutch) you should be very careful of not starving it of oil. If the machine head doesnt spin fast enough to supply oil throughout it could seize the head.

Ive seen it on this site and tried to duplicated it. Its harder than it looks. You did it beatifully Dave. Great saddle.

Thanks for the response. Ive been planning on trying Fiebings, I just expected to get the same results. Ive been sealing with Pecards which helped alot.

Its not possible to use Tandys new water based antiques on motorcycle leather because it will end up on your butt. (Why will it stick to denim but not leather????) Anyway, is there anywhere that the oil based antiques can still be found? Or even better, is there another option to get the antiquing effect on tooled leather, that would be permanently water proof? Thanks in advance.

Great work Kevin. Good to see you rollin again.

I think "Putfile" will allow this. Not possitive though.

Looks great. Good colors. I use Wally's camping mat also. You can use 180 or so grit sand paper to shape the edges by hand to get a more rounded look, and it hides seams better too. A word of caution, youll end up with blue powder all over you. Keep up the good work.

Thanks very much. I made several small mistakes but I think it turned out ok.

Seat I built with older leather to add the appearence of age to the seat.

Im in Allen (North Dallas) welcome aboard.