kjcreamer

Hi Colt. So you think the spray adhesive and handstitching is adequate for the strap tabs on the pack? I estimate I would carry no more than 20lb and would have 12lb weight goal most of the time.

Thanks Sonydaze...gonna give that idea a go on a test swatch tomorrow.

Hello. I'm making a bushcraft type backpack that will have a mix of leather and canvas parts. I made prototype that turned out really well except for the parts that I used barge to attach the leather to the canvas. For example the leather bottom to the canvas bottom and the leather buckle attachment to the canvas front. You can tell the cement "bled" through. My canvas is light/medium weight - sort of like a carhart jacket exterior fabric.I suppose I could just rely on the handstitching of leather to canvas but since this is a pack, I want it as strong as possible. Another option is a different adhesive but won't those others bleed too? (I only have Barge and plain Elmers but I'd be willing to buy something else if there's a suggestion). If it's a water based adhesive, how is it affected if the pack gets wet? I do plan to waterproof the canvas with a hot beeswax, parrafin, and boiled linseed oil mix that I saw online. I'd love any input.

Making a messenger bag from WC English bridle. What should the shoulder strap be like? Does it get lined with pig skin? Is it more common to leave single layer and make a small padded part to prevent sliding on shoulder? Thoughts?

Beautiful work!

I have the HSB Quick Change in two sizes. My problem is there is a line that the toe leaves on the leather. If you watch Nigel's review closely, he gets the same thing. I emailed Ranch2arena about this problem a couple weeks ago but no response.

I think your edge turned out fantastic.

Looking at Black Friday doorbuster special at my Tandy with the Deluxe Splitter model on sale for $200. Is this a good deal or is the blade just not worth even that? I've heard (and experienced) some disappointment with Tandy tools but I've not purchased any of their higher priced items. Any thoughts about pros or cons I should think about before going for it? Thanks for the input. BTW reg prices listed at $550, gold $440, elite $385

Well I bought the Campbell Randall after all but haven't received it yet. I'll post what I think after I've used it some.

Are hand setters for hardware universal? I have this Tandy set https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-deluxe-snap-all-rivet-setter-set If I am now upgrading to using snaps and rivets from say The Buckle Guy (or Ohio Travel Bag) will I be able to use the same setters? I'd like to move away from Tandy hardware to the brass hardware that the Buckle Guy sells.

What's the best way to cleanly remove a snap or rivet that I installed wrong? (I hit it too hard rather than the "tap, tap, tap" and it tipped.

1. I have two styles of hand creasers that I heat up using a burner. I've never been happy with the results. Why don't they make a hand tool that you can heat (I've see the wooden ones but obvs no heat) with one side longer to ensure the line stays even? This would help going around a curve because you could keep pressure on edge to to stay consistent. I understand that practice helps but I've been "practicing" this A LOT for 1 1/2 yr and still go off course/wobble. Also since you have to sort of angle the tool yourself to accommodate this the line isn't as sharp on one side because it's not perpendicular. Am I expecting too much? 2. I've only used veg tan and just ordered my first couple sides of English Bridle from Wickett and Craig to make messenger bags (had to save up the $ and improve my skills enough to warrant the jump to better quality leather over Tandy stuff). Recommendation for best creaser to work on leather that has been hot stuffed? Just heat and go like I do with veg? 3. I just started to explore electric creasers online. Never used one but since the bridle isn't struck through, I will need to edge paint which I've done by hand with some decent results on thicker veg. I also plan to move into making bags with thinner chrome tanned leathers (floppier leather will be difficult to sand multiple times to apply edge paint well). It appears this product from fineleatherworking.com will do edges AND creases: http://www.fineleatherworking.com/leather-electric-creaser But...the price...oh my...can't do it. ($600 for unit and $140 or more for EACH tip). So I found this https://www.campbell-randall.com/shop/index.php?route=product/product&path=74_110&product_id=14436 at Campbell Randall for $225 and roughly $42 for each tip. Now I still can't afford this yet but has anyone used it? 4. Then I checked out eBay and found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Brass-Soldering-Iron-Tip-Press-Edge-Sector-Marking-Creaser-Decorate-Tool/371747551454?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D39107%26meid%3D8c42ff24045d491eb9f1efcbfa20635c%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D172153479805 Could I buy a generic soldering iron and use these? If so how would these attach? I know many of you also have wood shops and metal shops to make and shape tools. Unfortunately this isn't something I know how to do but if I had enough directions and didn't have to buy a ton of expensive tools I'd be willing to try/learn. Basically I own a drill, Dremel tool, and some hand tools and that's it. I know...not a lot to work with.

I'm a little slow to respond here but your drawing looks REALLY similar to this one: for sale at Rocky Mountain Leather Supply https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/tools/products/trvr-work-apron but as you can see it's a mix of waxed canvas and leather to keep costs down. I think this is what others were recommending for incorporating some fabric.

What is synthetic gauze? Is it like a gauze bandage? If so, how do you prevent the gauze from absorbing so much liquid? What's the most efficient way to filter? I've never filtered but wondering now if this would fix some of the issues I have.

Hi. What kind of creaser are you using in the tutorial? Thanks.

So the burnishers arrived today and they both are fantastic. I had to wait 7 weeks and send multiple emails but they did get here.

So I finally got a response from Ed via email with a picture of the burnishers and a tracking number. I will post again when items arrive.

This delay and lack of communication seems to not be an isolated incident. I ordered and paid through PayPal on Aug 16 for a general purpose drill press burnisher and a bear spike. It does say on the website that there's a 2 week wait, but when I hadn't heard anything after 5 weeks, this past Monday I emailed inquiring about my order's status. It's Friday and I haven't heard back. I went into it knowing I'd have to wait 2 weeks and I was even okay with 3 weeks, but over 5 weeks with no communication is really frustrating and certainly isn't best business practice.

Did anyone find a copy of this book? I looked but couldn't find it anywhere.

Update to anyone following this thread.I ended up with Barry King small flat haft. I emailed them and explained I have small hands and that's what they recommended. I also got the smallest awl blade they have (1 1/2"). Beautiful partnership. The BK awl comes with 2 double sided collets which allows you to use 4 different size blades (probably any manufacturer around would fit into one of the colletts, just as Art pointed out). Solid metal; not flimsy. I intended to sharpen the blade when it arrived bc everyone says nothing is sharp when you get it but I have to tell you it's plenty sharp for me; sliced right through the leather. I managed to stab my hand with the blade. It made this tiny hole but went right in deep. So sharp I didn't even feel it until I realized I dripped some blood on the floor. I also ordered a Bob Douglas slim awl blade which fits in the BK haft just fine as everyone suggested. Slices great through the second layer of leather that I marked with my pricking irons. And while I like the blade, it is 2 1/2" so when I add that to the BK haft the whole set up is a little too long for me to maneuver. It's not just wood length, but the collett adds length too. I can't imagine that too many people would run into this problem unless you're a female with small hands but I thought it worth mentioning. I hope it's not blasphemous, but I ended up using my Dremel to take off 1/2" of blade and put it in my old Tandy haft and that little difference (Tandy haft is a little shorter than BK haft) makes a huge difference. So now I have a primary awl set up with BK haft and blade and a lovely Bob Douglas blade/Tandy haft as a second choice. I have a selection of JJ needles but have primarily been using the #2 with the very last of my Tandy thread and some .08 Tiger Thread I got just a few small lengths from Rocky Mountain Leather. I had to see what everyone is talking about While I like the Tiger, it seems a little "meshy" to me but it was great to sew with. Not too waxy. On the other hand, I took theinfannator's advice from early in this thread to check out Royalwood Irish Linen thread. I ordered their sample card with the selection of colors and plys they have available. It was $2 and no postage. It came in less than a week and it was totally worth two bucks for me to see the real colors and how thick the different ply thread is. This is more what I was imagining when I started sewing. I will be ordering the 4 ply this week. johnv474, I will check out the Maine thread next. Thanks. As for the sharpening, I will be looking further into that in the coming months. I plan to watch some videos. I have no experience at all in even sharpening an ordinary kitchen knife. I plan to practice sharpening on my old Tandy awl blade so I don't kill my 2 new blades while I learn. I can tell there are some seriously knowledgeable people out there that know a lot about sharpening so I'll read those threads and ask questions as they arise.

Just thought I'd reply to update that things are going much better based on the changes all of you suggested. No more globs Thanks!

Wondering if anyone has used a rotary blade sharpener. I was looking at one from SLC http://springfieldleather.com/19634/Sharpener%2CRotary-Blade%2C45mm/ Does it work? I'm trying to get as much use out of blades before changing. Thanks for any input.

Great! Thanks for info!

Oh! I can't believe I didn't figure that one out on my own. Duh!I have to remember to not just think of leatherworking as its own entity and to apply what I know about other projects/mediums. I have no interest in holster/sheaths but clearly it would be valuable for me to look at those techniques as well. So much to learn and I'm loving it! Thank you. With the "elmer's" style glue I was using it was easy to use the bone folder to separate the pocket (it's a notebook cover) from any glue past stitching but I didn't think I could do that with the cement style bond. So I was being really careful to not go past what would be the stitching line. Will the bone folder work for "inside seepage" on the cement adhesive? So how are far inside/past the stitching to glue?

Wow. Thanks for the speedy reply JLS. I didn't even have a chance to edit my post with the pics before you responded I'm thinking it's the settling. I didn't shake/mix at all and who knows how long it had been sitting on the Tandy store shelf before I bought it. Never thought of this and didn't think to observe color. First time using cement in any form for projects other than kindergarten rubber cement back when they thought it was okay for little kids to smell that stuff. Ha ha. Also probably still too thick a little. How to get thin application on such a small diameter line around without getting on edge to be burnished?