RVM45

Friend, Well duh... I do most of my reading over on the Holster sub-forum and it had never occurred to me that here might be articles/ tutorials on saps. Acrually, I Have little use for a sap as a utilitarian object. I was trying to recreate an olde tyme aesthetic from pictures of old saps that one sees... Some of the olde tyme saps look like—well, they look like they need a big dose of Viagra Thanks. ]

Friends, I want to make a lead-shot filled leather sap—and I would like it to be slightly fatter toward the distal end… Picture the shape of a speed bag or a light bulb—only not quite so pronounced. Also, I intend to sew all the seams and then turn the result inside-out to hide much of the stitching, and I intend to use four pieces… What kind of pattern do I use to get a slightly spherical ball on one end? If I make the ball end too pronounced, it won’t fit through the neck when I turn the leather inside-out. Is there any good rule of thumb, so that I don’t end up with a bag that won’t turn inside-out? What weight leather would y’all advise? Thanks!

Friends, Imagine driving down the road. The road ends ends 30-yards ahead. There is no turn off to the Right. You HAVE to go Left. Do you turn on your Left Turn Signal!?! To my mind, IF you agree to drive BY THE RULES—as opposed to only paying Pragmatic Attention to Rules made by others... But if you BELIEVE in the RULES, then this is an important test of your commitment to THE RULES. Do you follow THE RULES, even when there is NO PRACTICAL REASON TO? Those dead ends with only one possible turn are the times where using your turn signal MATTERS MOST. I used to always make sure to insert all of my coins in vending machines Heads Up. Someone once told me that it didn’t matter. OF COURSE IT DOESN’T MATTER. Would I go to all this trouble if it actually mattered!!?!! I mean, IF some Statistical Scientific Study showed that putting the coins in Heads-Up made me 3% lss likely to get sewed out of my Coke money, I’d say, “Skew it!” and stick them in any which way. Ain’t worth bothering with, for 3%... …..RVM45

Sorry if this was addressed earlier—there were beaucoup posts... But can you even FIND Incandescent Bulbs, since the Hated State MANDATED those TRIFLING LED lights!?! I mean, except as recent antiques at like yard sales? I would have REALLY loaded up on Incandescent Bulbs—but as usual, I was too broke to make a significant move... …..RVM45

Nah. I meant when I watch Knife-Makers on “U” Tube & they don’t polish all of the metal—just the part that will be exposed. When I was in “Jig-Repair”—and it turns out that all of our “JIGS” were technically welding “FIXTURES,” NOT “Jigs"—But anyway, the Boss—who trained me—taught me to simply knock off any visible scale with the Dynafile when maintaining the “Jigs." However, once I went back on second-shift & was on my own—I insisted on polishing each “Jig” to a high state of shine with the Dynafile.. {The “Jigs” were steel & copper. I was mostly polishing copper.} Cleaning “Jigs” was scut-work, so the First-Shift Boss invariably left all the cleaning to me. {In a factory setting, never trust a “Daywalker”—someone who works Dayshift by preference…} Anyway, I was quite anxious to work as fast as possible, so as to take unscheduled breaks... Once, I was laid-off for 5-weeks & the Boss did all the cleaning/polishing. I found, that once I was back, that I had to work twice as hard to clean the “Jigs” until I got them back into a High State of Polish. Seems that the globs of molten steel would only stick lightly to a highly polished surface & it was east to knock them off with a light application of the Dynafile. However, IF the surface was crappy & rough, the slag would stick harder & it was much harder to clean. I polished the copper surfaces solely due to being OCD—BUT unless there is some strong contraindication there is generally a REASON OCD kicks in. I mean, ORDINARILY, I am quite Sloven & Lazy—UNTIL it SEEMS TO MATTER. ……RVM45 7

That is something that I had truly never considered. I also get incensed at knife makers who don’t polish the part of the hilt that will be hidden by the handle scales... I also groove on revolvers that have the inside surfaces jeweled—supposed to hold lubricant better—but it just looks deluxe when you reduce your revolver to possession—something that should be done VERY SPARINGLY. When I was going through Small Arms Repair School at APG I encountered all sorts of weapons that had never been fired yet were a total ruin from being reduced to possession & then reassembled hundreds of times by the students.

Friends, I was watching some holster makers on “U” Tube & I noticed something that amazed & displeased me. The culprit was basket-weave stamping a holster… Now truth be told, I have seldom seen a stamped pattern that is as attractive to my eye as smooth highly polished leather, though some very well-done carving IS an improvement to bare leather… BUT some folks like stamped leather; it is reputed to stiffen the leather & make small scuffs & scars less noticeable & it certainly occupies the stamper & keeps him out of worse mischief… But what to my wondering bloodshot eyes should appear—the stamper ONLY stamped the front side of the holster—the one that would show— & left the side that would face the holster-wearer smooth. {When I was telling my sister about his, she thought that I meant that the culprit should stamp the INSIDE of the holster! No! NO!!! The BACKSIDE—not the INSIDE!} To me, this seems sloven & unworkmanlike. It is like cabinetmakers who make a beautiful dresser; chest of drawers or armoire, using all sorts of expensive and exotic woods in the process— & then on the backside or the bottom—where it won’t show, they use a common sheet of plywood or fiberboard. Like Krenov said about cabinetmaking—sooner or later, someone will turn it around to look at the back (or bottom) side & the fact that someone took the time to do it RIGHT—even where it doesn’t show—will bring a smile to their lips— & increase their satisfaction of owning it. Since I was now on the alert—ALL of the “U” Tube holster makers seem to use this lazy man’s approach. If I was contracting for a stamped holster—I would very much appreciate the maker telling me: “You realize that this is only a half-vast stamping. IF you want it fully stamped over all 180-degrees—that will be an extra $35!” What do y’all think? Thanks. …..RVM45

Cool!

Thanks again.

Thanks. I have seen squared-off trigger guards, but both of mine have the regular "Round” trigger guards. Thanks again.

Friends, Really really broke in my current economy—& my State recently approved Constitutional Carry. & I’d be reduced to Mexican Carry... I’d like to make some holsters but leather ain’t free & my arthritic hands no longer work at 100%. Anyway, I come across some cheap suede holsters—flimsy—very much like the old Monte Carlo Holsters... Say what you will about Monte Carlo Holsters—a 11911A1 Holster that I slightly modified was the best holster for crotch carry that I ever found. Wish that I still had it... Anyway, they have Holsters for the 1911A1; but none for the S&W 5906. IF I buy a 1911A1 Holster (Or should I buy the Commander Version—being the 5906 Slide is shorter?) & ram it home—will the cheap holster stretch and form fit? Thanks.

Thanks.

Friends, Does anyone have a tutorial or a step-by-step build for the Bruce Nelson Style; Inside-The-Pants-Minimalist Holster known as "The Summer Special"? Yeah, Milt Sparks makes one too. Thought that it might be a cheaper holster to make, due to the much thinner Leather Used—WHAT WEIGHT IS USED!?! Thanks. …..RVM45

Friends, Someone MAY have posted a link to these three tutorials before. If so, please forgive me. This dude shows—in some detail—how to created a Western Fast-Draw Style Holster WITH METAL INSERT—Something (Metal Inserts) that I've always been more than a bit Fuzzy about for years. I hope this link helps or at least entertains someone. Thanks. https://youtu.be/XVkgElQVqzs https://youtu.be/tl_wizwirAw https://youtu.be/oqMng4ZxRs8 .….RVM45.

Friend, IF I ever get far enough ahead to join the NRA once mire, I plan to take advantage of their question-answering service to see if anyone has ever taken one of these holsters apart and photographed the STEEL INSERT. I haven't a clue what shape the Insert has. I forget about this holster for a good long while—then See a Holster that is ALMOST a High-Ride, but falls short in some particular. I don't remember what guns they used to offer them in—BUT if I could make my own, I could even make one to fir my Walther PP or my Ruger Standard II…. I also wish I knew PRECISELY how the Milt Sparks "Six-Pack" magazine carriers. O. the things that I WISH that I had loaded up on, back when they were available! …..RVM45