Brooks125

Please tell me you make multiples of these in different variations and sell them to the pro shop for that specific course. Unless it's a real duffers course, that would be a great item! I do holster/gunleather work and am always impressed when I see you guys doing great, delicate accessory work. It's harder than people think.

I have been going to gun shows for just about a year now to sell custom holsters and gun leather. I recently bought 2'x3' corrugated (horizontal ribs) signs to advertise my spot. Aside from building a 25 piece PVC frame and spending 2-3 hrs setting up, is there a simple sign system that can be made to post signs, overhead, for attendees to see. I know this isn't leather-specific, but I know some of you have gone to a lot of shows and have seen better stuff than I have. I currently have 2 or 3 great regular customers, but would like to get more. I'm thinking being able to be found (again) may have something to do with it.

I believe you have a tension issue. When you back stitch, the threads now have 2 threads in the hole, instead of one. It will take some practice, but I corrected the problem by adjusting the top tension tighter ONLY when I am coming forward by my back stitch. I have a CB3200, and adjusting the first tension wheel on top does the trick.

For lighter tooling, pattern marking, snap/rivet setting and small punching, I use a 1# dead blow hammer from ... drum roll please ... Harbor Freight! I use a 3# dead blow from the same reputable dealer for slot punching and maker's marks. Cheap, fairly durable and easily replaced. The faces do wear out, but it takes some time. I make gun leather with minimal stamping so I stay more to the orthopedic end of the leather working spectrum.

Prepaid shipping boxes from USPS. The big ones make a great work surface for the bench.

I just got a snake skin from Tandy on their web specials and am planning to do a holster for a friend. These skins are pretty soft and seem absorbent. I was wondering if there is a process for wet forming leather gear that uses non or less absorbent exotics, on things like holsters. Does the veg tan simply absorb enough to still tool and bone the items, or is there some step I'm not thinking of?

Here's the back side ...

I've had requests for Paddle holsters, and it always seemed daunting, working in leather. I figured out a way to make a standard patch that fits the Blackhawk paddles, which can be had separately. Just line up the holes and sink t-nuts in position through the applique'.

Yeah, my FIENDS realize that. That's also Tandy's price on the same item. It's a tough call for them, having that much "idle assets" sitting around. She told me the finishing is worth more than the material at that point.

I just picked up a piece from fiends of ours who sell counter tops, etc. He suggested quartz for the durability (I broke a piece of marble with a 3# dead blow hammer.) In talking to his wife, they pay several thousand a month to toss them in the dumpster because of the weight. It's a bad spot for them, the pieces usually aren't worth the cost to finish the edges (they finished mine on barter) and there isn't demand in most cases. They had 12x12x1.5 pieces cut and in stock, with a retail price of $50 ea. They have their newer finishers work on them for experience and to evaluate their skills. I'm looking forward to using it, as a work surface and my photo backdrop (it sparkles!).