andystevens

Very nice and clean work.

My theory is if your building saddles you better know horses, try the horse for a week or a few rides and then make the decision if it is a good trade. I like the barter system at times its a good way to get you need or want and keep Uncle Sam out of the mix.

There is 1/4" Chicago screws available from your local Tandy store. Me personally like good belt snaps I use Rome Fastener (212) 741-9779 snaps they the best and hold up extremely well, I have been using them for the last 7 years and I make on the average of 300 belts a year with very little problems. I don't want to talk bad about any company but I need to say this the snaps from Weaver, Tandy, and a few other companies that sell the segma belt snap are no good they do not last they get very weak and don't hold when used a few times that is just some of my trial and error lessons I learned and felt I should share.

Here is what use and the order I use. 1. Wet and slick the edges with a edge stick or deer antler 2. Apply the dye to edge (I do this after the edge is slicked so the dye applies evenly and straight on the top and bottom of the edge) 3. right after I dye the edge I rub paraffin wax (canning or candle wax cheap and you can get at your market). 4. wet the edge again and I use heavy canvas for a rag and rub like hell remember water and friction heat is what makes the wax melt into the fiber and create the mirror finish. This way of finishing the edges works very well for me on most to all types and weights of leather. You can also use this method on old or used pieces to shine it up.

Very nice work.

Steve, I bought a Consew 226R 10 years and since then have bought 2 more for belts and chaps, They sew the real fine stitch that I like. These machines are pretty simple to work on and fine tune.

I use pure olive oil applying 2 or 3 light coats and then I finished these with a mahogany colored Neat-Lac. Before I did that I dyed the background with mahogany oil dye. The edges were slicked and dyed with marine cordovan dye. Ben,When I get a chance I will post a little deal on the futurity knot for brow bands and front belts for chinks and chaps..

I just cut and ground a Osborne #8 drive punch to make the small half round. When doing it I used my Foredom flex shaft with a cut off wheel then hand file it so it the metal doesn't over heat and lose its temper, using a grinding wheel creates to much heat and the temper is lost in the cutting edge.

This a pair of chinks I built for the Great Basin Gear Show that was held this past January in Elko NV. The brown base is 4oz. from Stevenson-Paxton and the dark brown that I used for the fringe and the underlay is 3-4oz. from Hide and Leather House. I used 8-9oz. tooling leather from Thoroughbred Leather for all of the carved pieces and finished them out with a 1" sterling silver bar buckle and 1/2" sterling conchos on the leg shields. If you look close I under laid dark brown under the tooled pieces and used a #8 drive punch with half of it cut away to form a small half round punch to pink the edge. On the edges through the crotch and down the back of the leg I cut a 1 1/8" wide piece of dark brown and then pinked 1 side with the #8 punch, then I glued front and back of the edge and bound the edges with the pinking on the top side. Then I cut the fringe 8" long cutting both layers at the same time you just have to be careful to keep both even and aligned. I finished them up with latigo leg straps and stainless steel 5/8" buckles and a piece of latigo tied in a futurity knot for the front closure. I forgot about the back belt it is 1" wide, carved, lined and stitched. Thank you all for looking and letting me share.

Most of the tools I use are Barry King and recommend highly them. I have some Fey, Don King, Ellis Barnes tools also. If you can't afford the real good tools a file, emery paper, and elbow grease you can turn craftools into workable tools for Sheridan style to get you started.

Rob Schaezlein from San Fransico make sterling silver ones

Hitching Post Supply in Washington state the owner is Vicky Mullins and she carries a good selection of them

If you are looking some nice moderate priced silver plate or overlay pieces check Hansen Western Gear from Oakdale CA, don't there website address but just google them Tim and Marie Hansen are great people and are fair priced even with the rapid increase in the ferrous and non- ferrous metal market. As far as Montana Silversmiths I do not do business with them you should voice your concerns with them, the people to talk to are Steve Miller, Clark Fletcher, or Judy Wagner I know these people personally and they are all in the upper management and I would think they would like to hear your problems with their products.

Thank you Bruce I would love to see some of your latest work. I sure do like this forum site I'm down with a hand injury and have a lot of time on my hands right now to look around it.

I have been in the trade for 13 years

Very nice!

I believe in keeping it simple, usable and not bulky. On the inside front cover there is a pocket cut at an angle and sewed on the two outside edges. As for attaching the notepad I do not glue the liner to the top cover on the back inside of the top just the edges and then after it is sewn together I cut a slit in the liner to fit the pad width. Sorry I don't pics of the inside of this projects, the next time I build a portfolio I will take pictures and post.

I do silversmithing and engraving but this pocket purse the client provided the silver.

Beautiful, very very classy

Looks great and very good lines for just starting you will go far with your leather trade. Keep up the good work!!

Very nice work!

The way I was taught by the saddlemakers I have worked under is the front of the skirt to the front of wool skin and the top of skirts to the middle of skin. The reasons for this is the direction that the wool lays, it will not allow your blankets to kick out the back of the saddle.

Here is a writing portfolio built for a 8.5" by 11" notepad with a garden rose floral pattern. Thanks for looking Andy Stevens www.andystevenssaddlery.com

Here is a couple of different styles of ladies handbags. I truly believe in the bread and butter projects in a custom saddle shop.. Thanks for looking and I welcome any questions Andy Stevens www.andystevenssaddlery.com

Looks like you have the idea down. The one thing that I see is that your top belt is to wide I like to keep mine no wider than 4.5" top to bottom at the widest part and the narrow part around 2.25" to 2.5" that will keep it from bunching and binding when sitting in the saddle. Cutting the fringe at an angle helps the overall look of clean and flowing lines. Andy Stevens www.andystevenssaddlery.com