penguineer

I do the assembly and glueing after I have done the dye and sealed the surface. At that point any glue that goes walkies can be easily rubbed off the sealed surface with fingertips once dry. It will get into the edges, but I trim those down and slick them up after the assembly. Cheers!

In general use the same "colour" - yellow/copper/brass, or white/silver/stainless. Copper isn't a great metal for making buckles, for the same reason it makes great rivets, which is its softness. Cheers!

Very nice! Cheers!

Not bad! Like the celto-tribal design! What do you think needs fixing? Suggestions from what I can see: - longer strap on the pouch flap to stop it sliding back up through the loop - lace along the side of the quiver to the very top, then a couple of passes from one side to the other to stop the top "lips" coming apart. Remember that as a bit of functioning gear this will get knocked around, marked, pick up patina etc...... Remember to have a look at it after it has been used for a while to get an idea of where it is worn, what needs reinforcing and any simple repairs(bit of lace) - best way to figure out what works! Cheers!

What happened to Barnsley? Is it easier to ask, who is left? Cheers!

The compressed cardboard you refer to may also be referred to as "millboard" or "grey board" - probably available from a paper supplier, usually comes in a variety of thicknesses from 06mm through to about 4mm. SmokeyPoint - Is the bag stiffener a thin plastic? Cheers!

I think I get you - utilitarian and personal items based saddlery and an era where the use of leather was just the way things were done, handmade and long lasting........ Cheers! Cheers!

Theres a marking on the left hand side of the blade(pic 3) that I went looking for...I guess that's the makers mark.....someone that knows a bit more might know what that means. Looks in very good condition! Cheers!

Given that the gauge markings appear to be metric, I'd guess French/European for a start...... Cheers!

And you know this how? :-) Cheers!

Just wondering where you draw the line between "traditional" and "modern" leatherwork? Purely the use of colour or hard leather? Utilitarian items? Sheridan/western carving? Cheers!

It's on his profile page - http://www.gbleatherco.com and is a link to an etsy shop.A lot of the pancake holsters look reasonably similar, but different enough that you would do it once, make a template and move on. Doing a clicker knife for each variant of gun would become very expensive very quickly, so unless you had an order for 200 colt 1911 holsters.... Cheers!

Once you get seriously into sharpening it becomes a bit insane - plenty of stones, laps, rougue, strops, steels and sundry devices to spend your money on. The main thing is that you do it and do it often - a small strop that stays with the tools helps. As for knives, plenty of better ones out there but the main thing is that it's sharp and you feel happy using it. So I can't help you there. For what you are doing, utility knife is plenty. Learn to use it, sharpen it, get pissed off with it and replace it with something better.....for you. I currently use a bootmakers knife, round knife, pen knife and utility knife depending on how I feel and the job I'm doing. Sorry if that doesn't help much..... Cheers!

I'm not sure about the v-gouge - every time I've tried using it on a folded item I've been unhappy and feel better about just weting the leather and making a fold using the bone folder(score on the inside fold line, flatten on outside). Why two sets of needles? The utility knife is fine for starting out. Highly recommended that you sharpen it though. A lot of people will recommend a better/different knife, but to get you going just keep it simple. That's something you could look into - sharpening gear........doesn't have to be fancy, a piece of firm cardboard and some rouge makes an acceptable benchtop strop. Cheers!

Hmmmm....I was warned about this........ I learned hand sewing years ago from a saddler that had gone to the USA on a study tour. He was able to point out a lot of the differences between Aussie and US hand sewing(eg I only use an overstitch wheel for marking, as it's what I have rather than setting stitches)....... This thread just seemed to highlight a few of the differences he talked about, so what I'm doing "as normal" is possibly a bit strange to follow for others..... Cheers!

Damn you, autocorrect!!! Shopfitters suppliers - unless you're using a tablet...... Cheers! (I guess any shop could be a shoplifters supplier.....)

I think the glass from a scanner or photocopier isnlikely to be very thin. Not much of a problem unless you have to move it occasionally. Find a shoplifters supply place - preferably one with secondhand fittings(cheaper). Glass shop shelves are available in a wide range of sizes, bevelled(not sharp) edges and thick enough to deal with a bit of rough handling. Cheers!

I just had a look at that drawing and the book. What's different the way I do things is creating a knot with each stitch, this is hidden inside each stitch hole. The drawing shows the new thread starting one stitch back, so you get that doubling up over a full stitch. I start the new thread in the last hole of the old one, so the only crossover is at the very end of the old thread(not a full stitch back) and the new thread locks the old thread in place....... Make sense? Cheers!

On the bone folder - I agree, get a real bone folder. They really aren't that much more expensive, and if you look around it may even be cheaper. Check out bookbinding or papercraft suppliers. Would not recommend a teflon bone folder when starting out though. It's a pretty versatile tool for folding, smoothing, burnishing..... Cheers!

For reference - I'm assuming that you stitch towards yourself(ie starting at the far end of the work and working back towards yourself) and you are right handed(left hand is on the back/inside of the workpiece). Stitch using the original thread to the point where you want to change over. Preferably have a couple of inches of thread left. Cut the needles off, leaving a couple of inches of the ends of the old thread attached to the work. Prepare your new thread and attach needles. Grab the two ends of the old thread in your left(back side) hand, pull them towards yourself and hold them as you push the needle through the last hole, behind the last stich. If you are working with one hand inside the workpiece, both hands pull the loose ends forward and the right hand feeds the needle through as well. Middle the new thread, and resume stitching as normal. You should end up with the new thread running over the top of the last stitch and the two ends sticking up in the middle of the work. When you've finished stitching, go back and cut off the threads close to the leather surface. Using a small/thin blade like a scalpel works well. Does that make sense? Cheers!

OK, a few more thoughts based on rereading the above.... (Not in order) Rubber cement should be very thin. Use an old credit card or gift card to scrape off excess glue. One the glueon the buckle and leather is tacky line it up and press firmly. It should not move after that. Scuff the metal with a bit of sandpaper to make a rougher bonding surface. Light wet forming is plenty OK! Just dampen/spray the back of the leather before putting the cement on and use finger pressure to work into place. Use a bone folder only around the edges to press the two leather pieces together. I would use wet forming more aggressively on the backing piece, rather than fingers, as you won't lose and detail. I normally use roo leather for my backings and fully hand stitch.....I guess if you must line up holes maybe use lacing needles as guides? If the pieces move after glueing you have used too much glue...... Hope that helps! Cheers!

Got a few more thoughts might help but in a rush...will post later.... Quickly though what glue and how much are you using? Cheers!

I've made a few of these buckles that turned out OK. Here's what I do: After tooling don't trim the leather to size. Leave it oversize before cementing into the buckle. Don't mark the stitching or lacing holes. Lightly dampen the front when glueing down and work the edges with a bone folder to get a defined edge around the metal. Glue the back down the same. Oversize and should cement to the front piece. Work the two pieces together from the front though to keep that edge. Metal should be fully encased in leather. When dry, mark out stitching and stitch. Use a dividers to mark the edge of the leather and trim with a knife. Cheers!

Very nice find! You realise how many people hate you right now? :-P Do you plan to use them? I have to hit the op shops myself..... Cheers!