penguineer

What sort of gouge? Get a "busy" makers stamp or invent a fashion brand name, thump it over the damaged piece and sell the belts as "fashion". Cheers?

Thanks! I don't use it on the oval blanks as they have a wider hook. I cut the end of the heat shrink so it laid down against the metal, shrunk it, did a second layer of shrink, then did the lining on the back. The shrink ends up locked between the blank and the back lining. It's actually the first of those large buckles I've made.... Cheers!

Hmmmm...terminology..... Generally carving would be what you want to do - transfer a design, cut with a swivel knife then make the whole thing three dimensional using a series of stamps/tools. Does that make sense? What do you understand the terms to mean? The sample you pictured is produced using a roll - the pattern is on a cylinder-shaped thing that gets put into a hand cranked machine. The pattern repeats after about 6" and the process is much like making sausages.(feed it in one end and crank the handle). Rolled or plated patterns are usually more intricate, but lack depth. You see a lot of it on cheap wallets from Thailand(or we do in these parts)..... Cheers!

Thanks! The shape of the knot design works better on the usual oval buckles: Cheers!

Thought I may as well post something up. This is one of the belt buckles I've carved and made up recently. The grey cardboard is to illustrate a 2" belt..... Stitching isn't perfect on the back. I've covered the hook part of the buckle with heat shrink tubing so it doesn't rub as much and has a bit of body. Cheers!

One little tip - "set" the stitching when you've finished, either by rubbing it down with a bone folder or using a smooth face hammer. This tends to even the stitches out and ensure they lay lawn into the stitching groove. Cheers!

I'm another vote for hand sewing. No power required. For small projects like holsters and sheaths you would have less setup each time you go to work, the stitching is more secure and better stitch placement. .....and I find it relaxing..... Cheers!

Simple and stylish. Well done! Cheers!

You do need to sharpen them. Al stohlmans "leathercraft tools" book covers pretty well everything. In general though - sharpen the outside/bevel as normal - clean up the inside with fine round stone or file to remove the burr/wire Cheers!

Been thinking about some of those loop style blackhead removers that show up in the image search and wondering if they would be good for pulling lacing through slits and similar(yes I know a lacing needle is proper, but sometimes............). Hmmmm..... Cheers!

A bisonette edger would be larger and have sharpened edges around the hole(sharpened by running a round file across the bottom face) as well as not having as much of a "cup". Handle is wrone for a bisonette as well - should be larger, it does the same work as a regular edge bevelled and should be held roughly the same. I'm going with blackhead remover https://www.google.com.au/search?q=blackhead+remover+tool But if it works as a modelling spoon/tool, use it! Cheers!

Isopropyl alcohol perhaps? Cheers!

Nice start! I'd say that the bevelling should be smoothed out a bit more - from one strike to the next should be an even flow(not neccessarily a smooth beveller). Perhaps a shader working the insides of the rose to give it more of a three dimensional look. The leaves look a bit "bare" - perhaps some small nicks around the edges rather than smooth and take the veins all the way to the edges(veiner tool or knife cuts). If that's your own drawing you're off to a cracking start - I can't draw to save myself! Cheers!

Interesting idea, but I'm not sure about historical accuracy......anyone know if the tanning methods of the period would be able to be tooled? I know they did use a number of bone tools and adornments such as needles and combs, but bone seems to be an odd choice for something that should be struck....... Cheers!

It looks good, but I'm thinking that half the attraction of paracord is so that you have it on hand to build a shelter or something - with the paracord removed you no longer have a sheath. I'd run a line of regular stitching inside of the paracord(closer to the blade, preferably with a welt). A welt would protect the stitching and give a bit more body to loop the paracord through...... Cheers!

Very nice! But I reckon the "restoration" bit is nonsense. Who sells those new? :-) Got any before photos? Cheers!

Hmmmm....I must have had a brain freeze - missed that cost bit. Does sound a bit steep for a basics. The content sounds about right, and I'm sure it will be used to push tools for sale.... Cheers!

Is this the class you're looking at? (from Tandy website): Looks like a good overall coverage of a basic tooled project and how to hold things together. I reckon it'd be worth having a go at to learn a bit about working with leather and if the instructor is any good it would be a very worthwhile practical supplement to just reading and watching other people work. The question I was going to ask you to ask yourself was - is there any particular area of leatherwork that interests you? A key thing is to give it a go and try! Cheers!

That'll teach me to look at peoples "interests" list under their avatar Rons' books are what I had in mind - they've all got essentially the same drawing, and it appears to be the exact same plait photographed in Morgans' book. I think the drawing gets the point across clearer though. Cheers!

Usually you start at the middle of the lace around the first ring - so if you have four strands they get looped through the ring and become an eight strand plait. At the other end you have to deal with the loose ends and plait back into your work somehow.Cheers!

I think the point is that the vinegaroon doesn't go through the resist but around it from the sides and comes through from underneath. Cheers!

If you want a really thin layer of glue, ditch the brush. Use an old credit or shop gift card as a spreader. Use the card to get rid of all the excess - you only need a tiny amount on the surface and the surface will be tacky almost immediately. Leave to sit for about 30 seconds, put the glued pieces together, and press. Should be ready to stitch after about 10 minutes. Cheers!

You've mentioned paracord, but this project is in leather lace? (Just asking as doing it in round stuff would be pretty nasty) I've found that sorting out braiding/knotting/turksheads can be confusing and some authors work for you and others don't - not uncommon for me to have up to three books open for reference when trying something new(one with good text,one with photos, one with drawings). You're using the belt project in Morgan as a reference currently? Cheers!

Whipping? Where you'd just fold your cord back and do a neat thread wraparound? Doesn't sound like you're referring to a Turks head or a knot really..... Cheers!

Along the length of the spine - best length and strength, consistent, also less chance of marks. If you go across the hide you're going from stretchy to middling to firm, and back again to get about 1/2 to 2/3 the length if you go the oher way. I'm assuming you're talking cow? Think about the shape of the cow and what happens in each part: - neck constantly moving, loose skin - belly, stretching, possible scratches from stuff on the ground - sides, leads down to the belly, possible scratches from fences/trees/etc Cheers!