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Everything posted by Chief Filipino
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How did it come out? looks good!
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Did you stretch yours? I just thought that maybe it would help both of us. I didn't stretch mine but from the videos I've watched of skinning mammals they stretch it... maybe I'll try that on my next one.
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Wow that's beautiful! Was there a lot of meat left on the skin after getting it off? Did you cut it while still on the snake or peel it off? Just curious if it is a common thing with all snakes. There was a ton of flesh left on the python skins I did.
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Glue on edges squeeze out, won't burnish well
Chief Filipino replied to AllanD's topic in How Do I Do That?
I've had the same issue and depending upon what I am making I've actually started using the adhesive tapes and depend instead upon my saddle stitching to hold the piece together. The adhesive tape holds it together well enough to get it stitched. I mainly use it on smalls (wallets, key chain/fobs, etc) and use contact cement on things like my knife sheaths. Doesn't solve the glue squish problem on my big items. -
You're welcome. Ya it is fairly simple. with python there was A LOT of meat that was stuck on and extremely difficult to get off, I think because it is a constrictor and their muscles are different than vipers (?). I have not taken on a rattlesnake yet so I don't know what the de-meating process is like. The only issue I had was the scale shield thingy sloughing off over time. I've heard some people say to use resolene on it after it's dry but I didn't do that, maybe I should on the next one.
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I used this technique with some python skins and it came out pretty well. I used vegetable glycerin and denature alcohol. The only issue I had was the scale covers popping off over time. I haven't used them on a project yet so no customers were harmed, but they are tanned.
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I have been using Etsy to sell my items with a fair amount of success. I have also tried farmers markets with some success as well. Etsy takes a small percentage of each sale but they give some security to selling online. I feel that whatever path you choose word of mouth will help you the most so make sure the quality is there but more importantly make sure your customer service skills are as honed as your swivel knife!
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All metals will corrode, even stainless steel, in certain conditions. I would go with brass but I also recommend doing your own research. Use both and put them through the same conditions and observe the results.
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I tried tracing out the parts and dying them as a whole and that seemed to work fairly well but I think I'll follow your lead and never use sheep for a wallet again. I do like the suppleness but it was too much of a pain to use for wallets.
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Nice, I didn't think of that! Thank you! I will definitely try this out. I don't really have much room/plates/weights to put on my pieces. Thank you! This is 1.5-2.5 oz sheep skin that I got to try on the inner pieces to try to take out some of the thickness. I normally work with 2-3oz at the smallest but thought I'd give the thinner stuff a shot. I may stick with it and try all these suggestions, at least until I'm out of leather then maybe go back to the 2-3 or maybe just get 1-2 in cow (if I can find it). Thank you!
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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From the album: Home Decor
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I'll experiment and see what I get! Thank you! The glass idea sounds good but I think I'll have to wait until I have an actual shop space/room instead of my teeny space I have at the moment.
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Would NFO before dying help prevent this? Sounds like it's worth a try! I used some Fiebings Pro Dye (which I'm assuming is there newest recipe for oil dye) on another wallet and it got some waviness/slight curling, but not like this. Concrete curls?!?
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Hello Everyone, So I bought some Eco-Flo Range Tan Leather Dye from Tandy to try out. I am working on a long wallet and the exterior piece is 2-3oz veg tan and the interior pieces are 1-2oz sheep veg tan. I put two coats of the leather dye on (not drying in between) all the pieces and let them dry. A few hours later I get this curling happening. I also think that I have some shrinkage that happened because my exterior/interior pieces, which should be pretty much the exact same size, are about 1/8" size difference. So what is happening? I did not wet the pieces down before hand, which I thought later that maybe that would help it all dry at about the same rate. Is it the Eco-Fo? Or is it the leather itself? Is there a big difference in behaviors between sheep veg and cow veg?| What did I do wrong? Thank you for the help!
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My First Holster
Chief Filipino replied to Chief Filipino's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
So for friction fit holsters it's more about the stitch line and the molding correct? About how far should the stitch be? My thoughts being if it is too close to the trigger it will end up tearing the leather? Thank you and I actually am working on the belt for him as I read this hahaha! Will do thank you! -
My First Holster
Chief Filipino replied to Chief Filipino's topic in Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheathes
Thank you! I've played with decorative stitching before but not like this one and I am very pleased that it came out so well. I will ask him to practice with it and give me feedback and if I need to redo it I will.