kwalk20

I have taken it back to Campbell Randall because I've tried suggestions by the manual and didn't want to risk making things worse. I will pick it up tomorrow and hopefully all will be fine. There were a couple of other things that I hadn't even thought of. I will pick it up tomorrow and update in case this occurs to someone else. By then I can say what actually did happen. I am going to go through the book when I get him back. Thank you for your assistance guys.

I need to rephrase that. It's not the actual bobbin, but the bobbin case. The thing you place the bobbin in. When the needle goes down, only when the pressser foot is engaged, it is barely touching it. So I positioned the needle to be dead center of the needle hole and feed dog, but it still touches. Should I reassemble the bobbin case? Let me ask so I am clear: If I have my stitch length set at 8 forward, it should be 8 in reverae also correct? I'm so green.

Thank you guys for answering. I really appreciate it. I figured that adding a speed reducer shouldn't have caused an issue. That's just when it started happening so I didn't know if maybe we handled the machine in a way that something happened. So going over both of your checks, what I can see after carefully watching, as you said RockyAussie, I now am able to see a small burr on the bobbin case. What I noticed is that as long as the presser foot is up it rotates smooth. But when I put the presser foot down and turn the hand wheel, I keep getting a thump, I get hung up at a certain point. I noticed that at that point there are tiny burrs on the bobbing case and the needle where they are hitting. I adjusted the position of the needle and the needle hole of the feed dog back to dead center. That helped ever so slightly, but upon testing, when turning the hand wheel with the presser foot down, I still get a slight bump. I'm still trying to figure out exactly what I need to adjust as I am fairly new to these machines and I don't want to mess anything up. And I must say they give me a good work out and I am getting more familiar with it. Any help would be soo appreciated. For now I'm going to smooth out the markings on the bobbin case and pray. LOL. Don't really know what to do as my manual is limited. I think I know what needs to be done, but not sure how to go about it.

Hi all! I'm needing your help again I have a Seiko STH 8BLD 3, which looks exactly like a Consew 206rb5. So here is my issue and I have no idea if this has anything to do with it or not, but I put a speed reducer on it and that is when the problem began. I don't know if it got off track just from being handled while putting the reducer on or what. But my reverse stitch length is too long and doesn't go into the holes, it veers off a little bit and seems like when the needle is coming up, it sort of pulls as the stitching is looser and you can hear it. I have searched the forums and can't find anything that addresses this, and followed the instruction is my manual, but it doesn't help. I watched Uwe's awesome video and used his template, but it was on a Juki and looks totally different from mine underneath. But I found what I thought was it, but after trying the procedure and it didn't help, I found out from my manual that I was adjusting the wrong thing. So I put it back it it's normal place. These are the two dots that my manual says to make even and it should fix it, but it didn't. Can anyone help me? Thanks in advance! Also this is what mine looks like underneath.

Just to add I have the Seiko STH8-BLD-3 and it is made in Japan and all the parts are stamped made in Japan as well. It is an excellent machine

Thank you Mikesc, I didn't think it was safe to make a hack. I was afraid that anything that wasn't supposed to be there would damage the motor, but thanks for giving me an alternative when in a punch! I appreciate any and all tips, trips and hacks.

Got her done!!!! Thanks to the tips on here we finally got it completed! And Sark9 for that detailed explanation and drawing with pics which we referred to many times. Now to find another belt that fits exactly right, but otherwise, good stuff.

Sark9, would you happen to have those pictures of your installation? My pulley's been sitting on the table and we've finally started the process, but I want to be sure we are doing it right. Thanks in advance!

I guess I wasn't or didn't even know to think about this aspect of it. All I was thinking about was the more cost effective route for me after seeing others do it. Thanks again. I would really love to see those pictures being that my reducer is already on its way. Thanks a bunches! I've never heard of doing this. I'm going to try it and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for the tip!

Hi Sark9, Thank you for responding. I have a family servo 550s. I make leather bags so the thickness varies. The max is the top of what the machine will handle which is about 3/8 in., but sometimes I push it on the seams. I use mainly 138 top and 69-138 in the bobbin. I sew a bit of both detailed, fussy and long stretch. I guess this is what I'm trying to do. I want to be able to have it positioned where I can still tilt the head back without having to remove the belts every time and I know I'll need to reposition things under there, but not sure how or what I need to be concerned with to make it right. I went ahead and put a reducer on order. It's this one: And I'm trying to figure out how best to mount it and get the beloved stitch at a time.Thank you for any help you can give me!

Thanks Bob, but right now cost is a factor. So I will have to go the cheapest route. I watched a video Arthur Porter did and it did the trick, but I just need to understand how to install it in order to still allow the head to go back. I got my stitch fixed pretty good...somewhat. My husband discovered that the bar that holds the needle was crooked and my harness foot was really bent out of whack. It came that way because on the piece of leather they used to test the machine the backstitches were not in the same holes, they veered off to the left the same way as I was trying tell you about. I don't know how that was missed before shipping, but with some fixes thanks to the hubby, and some adjustments to the tension we got it going.

I know this is an old thread, but I'm hoping somebody can help me. I'm wanting to put a speed reducer on my flatbed (Seiko sth-8bld3) and still be able to move the head back when needed. I knew it could be done, but not so sure of all the technicalities involved. Does anyone know where I can find this accessory mounting plate adaptor? And how best to go about this? Sark9 if you're reading this I would really appreciate your input since you've already done this, and anyone else. Thanks to all!

Hey Tallbald, Bertha Jo has a nice set up. I just put name labels on mine last night. I think I need a little entertainment in the corner if I can find a corner to put it in! Yes BigMatt! Name your machine! We need a "What's Your Machine's Name?" thread so we can tell the stories of them, the history and how they got the names, AND how they act when they make us cuss, (ain't that right Darren, lol). Every machine has a personality and history. Msdeluca I like the name Mongo. And Mongo's got some super kool shooz. Nice mod!

Thanks a bunches Bob! I love it! I may have to get with you for the black lamp that was shown in the picture. The little white one I got is too short. He's got little short arms, lol.

I have a bunch of girls too and one that's not in the picture - all domestics, the're dainty, but my industrials are the big boys and Hoss is a tank! I try not to swear at them because they get offended and swear back, lol. I've been getting to know my new big boy toy. He's a sweetheart!

And they shall call him "Hoss" Cartwright... My Cowboy 3200 arrived thanks to Bob at Toledo Sewing. As soon as he was unboxed all I could think of was the fond memories I have of watching Bonanza as a child every night with my Mom and Dad. Yes I'm one of those lames, or real kool people, however you look at it, that names all her machines. My Seiko's name is Frankie Beverly (the singer) and the other 4 domestics have names too. The Cowboy reminded me of the gentle giant HOSS CARTWRIGHT. I'm so impressed with the control of this machine. I can creep and crawl and still stick with a solid punch just like Hoss! There is a learning curve and I've watched the many good vids on youtube especially by Ryan Neel/ Hightex and I'm diving in. There was even one that really demonstrates the range of this machine where a guy was sewing very thin bandanas. He used thin fleece material and a very thin leather and the Cowboy 3200 handled it like a charm. From thick to thin. I'm excited can't you tell? I'm sure I will seek the expertise of you good people as I go along... I can hear the Bonanza theme music now....YeeeHawwww!!

Oh my goodness! I love them all. They're beautiful!

I don't think you need a weeks stay. I think Wiz was referring to the complexity of the CRL, to be sure to get thorough training on it, but if that's not what you're after you should be good wth a regular visit.

FWIW, they have other machines too. That's where I purchased my Seiko compound feed from.

I love it! Nice work.

Just an FYI: Campbell-Randall has completed their move to Conroe, Tx.

This is an interesting thread. I learned a lot. I had no clue of all the complexities that are involved. I'm so glad I went with reputable dealers for my industrials. My Seiko compound flatbed from Campbell-Randall, and awaiting my Cowboy 3200 from Bob @ Toledo.

Could that have caused such a drastic change? Starting at a 3 to then suddenly a 5.5?