bob21804

I have seen that one too... as well as one using the felt washers on a bolt setup. It seems there are several similar ways to skin a cat.

Ahhh, thanks. I knew I saw it somewhere, but wasn't able to find it recently when I looked. I'll definitely revisit it. Working on a couple wallets ATM.

Thanks! Your last 2 posts have been ringing bells for me. Did you make a YouTube Video showing this setup or see a similar setup on Youtube? I definitely recall seeing something like this before, and it's giving me ideas. At my day job, I'm able to get a hold of various size felt cylinder shaped disks - some over an inch in diameter by about 1 1/2" thick. I brought some smaller ones home in the past to try using them as applicators for dying edges, but I never thought about using them to burnish. I'll definitely be experimenting to see what I can put together.

Thanks! I was already aware of that type. In fact I have a buddy making me one in exchange for a small leather case. We're thinking about making it with a piece of Bakelite. I thought there was also another, motorized type, with a type of cloth wheel. Am I totally off base with that?? And do you think Bakelite would be a good material for one similar to the one you pictured?

Dwight, thanks for sharing your process. I do have some pure beeswax and I recently picked up a mini bench grinder with a polishing wheel, thinking I might be able to use it for edges. I also have a larger polishing wheel that I've used for other things, such as shining up metalwork. I don't have an electric burnisher designed for leatherwork, and I really don't know the difference, but i'll start looking at those as I have time. Can you (or anybody) tell me the difference? Daryl, If I remember right, I think I saw a YouTube video a while ago, where the guy did used melted/liquefied beeswax (I believe mixed with paraffin) to finish edges. I really don't remember the details, and have no idea if this is a good method or not. Maybe other experienced leatherworkers will shed some more light. And of course, a bit of experimentation can't be a bad thing. Bob

I've read a few references to using hot beeswax for finishing edges but haven't been about to find a tutorial or any details. Can anyone help? Bob

I find the last 2 responses enlightening, as I too have been thinking about utilizing my 1-ton arbor press for various tasks such as setting snaps and stamping. In light of what was shared, the only leatherworking task I still think I'll need my arbor press for would be getting the pressure needed for an embossing plate I bought, (but still haven't used). I do most of my leatherwork in my livingroom (until I get around to putting together a dedicated shop), so maybe I'll bolt my arbor press down to the workbench in my shed for occasional general use. And I even made a buddy a small leather item with the understanding he'd help me modify my arbor press when I'm ready to tackle the project. He works in the Tooling Department at my job, so he has access to various machine shop equipment. I think I'll get him to make me a multi-slotted edge beveling tool That I can attach to a small bench grinder instead. Sounds like a (new) plan.

Very impressive! Self sufficiency is definitely a good thing.

I've been using Bag-Kote mostly. I bought some Tan-Kote also, but haven't tried it yet. Also, I've gotten a better/more even finish when I spray it on with my airbrush, than wiping it on. I usually spray a light coat, let it sit several seconds then wipe very briefly, just to mat down any loose fibers. I'm quite new to leatherwork so others may have a better method.

I have that same ultrasonic cleaner, (bought at Harbor Freight for around $50 with a coupon, if I remember right) but hadn't even thought about using it to clean my airbrushes. Do you use it every time, or just occasionally? I'm new to airbrushing, but haven't had any problems with clogging yet. I've just been spraying a bit of water and alcohol mixture through it each time before I put it away.

Very cool. I love it. No doubt it'll be a real prize to the winners. I'm sure they'll wear it with pride.

I absolutely agree about the great community of leatherworkers here. So many people have encourage me and helped me improve over the past few months. As I learn more and more, I hope to have the opportunity to return those gestures to others who follow.

Thanks, Thor. I will check that out. But I'm not particularly looking for a product to purchase, but more so a document with good information on how customers should care for the items they buy from me.

I'm still quite the newbie, but have sold quite a few items to guys I work with and a few friends of friends. I'd like to start including a care sheet for customers. Would anyone have one already created, that they would be willing to pass on? I totally understand if you don't feel great about someone using what you've created, word for word, and I would very likely edit it to fit my own style of writing anyway. So even a simple, but comprehensive list of care instructions would be great. I just don't want to misstate or miss anything or reinvent the wheel if it's not necessary, and figured I'd ask here first, for the best advise. Thanks, Bob

Thanks. I'll have to take a look. I'm on my phone now and working so can't really follow links.

I looked a bit last night and found SLC has a better selection and better pricing than Tandy too.

Yup, and it can really give a great sense of accomplishment. It's really cool to take some raw leather and an idea, and with some work and experimentation, end up with a nice item that you or someone else can enjoy using for years to come. I'm working on my first long wallet right now - my own pattern and no instructions - working through a couple issues I hadn't anticipated, and I know it won't be perfect, but it'll be ok, and I'll learn a few things and get more experience, so it's all good.

Very true. I just had a guy ask me to make him a minimalist wallet, with a money clip. That's something I've never made, so I'll be looking around in the forums and online in general for ideas. Then I'll likely make my own design and have at it. I may run into issues, and it may not come out perfect. but no doubt I'll learn a thing or 2, and the next one will be better. I'm good with that.

I just checked Tandy's website and the printed book is available right now for $8.99, (with or without a membership) if you prefer that (which I would). The download is $12.99. I wish I saw the book recommendation sooner. I just got back from a Tandy class on carving/using the 7 basic tools and would have picked it up. I'm quite the novice myself and found the class worthwhile, even though it was a 2 1/2 hour drive to get there. I did buy the Figure Carving Finesse book, and the Tracing Patterns that goes well with it. (I already have the Pictorial carving book. Now all I need is LOTS of time to learn and practice.

Thanks, Tom. And thanks again for the Kydex tips. After a couple tries, I found the easiest way for me to get the sizing exact and the Kydex marked for cutting is to print the pattern in Corel, then cut it out, Elmer glue it onto the sheet of Kydex and cut it out with my scroll saw. Peel the paper off and it's done quickly and accurately.

Thanks for the compliment, Bruce. Yes, the Kydex is one continuous piece. I cut it to the size of the phone and added tabs on 3 sides, located to keep the charging port and buttons easily accessible. The side with no tabs allows the phone to be removed when desired. I used a heat gun to form the tabs over a small wooden block the same thickness as the phone (1/2"). I'm thinking of including a hole in the back of the case, on another design revision, to allow the camera to be used while still in the case. And yes, it is glued to the leather, not stitched. I used Barge, and it seems VERY secure. I glued and stitched in a previous version, but was advised by a more experienced member, that a good quality glue would hold very well. Actually, my artistic ability is quite limited, but I'm trying to improve. I usually print a design I find online and trace a pattern. I've been afraid to do much more than line drawings, on anything except practice pieces or items for myself, to this point. I am taking steps to improve in this area though. I'd like to get much better at both stamping and carving - pictorial and figure carving, more than Sheridan/Western style. This weekend I'm attending a carving class at a Tandy shop a few hours from here, and I'll be inquiring about other classes, both online and live, if possible. My intention is to keep learning more, and keep practicing the skills. Hopefully some day I'll be able to produce items nearly as good as some of those I admire here on the forums. Thanks again, Bob

Perfect! Just what I was looking for. These older posts are invaluable.

Beautiful! I love it!

This is the 4th one I've made recently - each one a little different (and hopefully a little better). I had some camera issues when cases #2 and #3 were made so unfortunately I don't have pix of those. The biggest difference between this one and the earliest ones is - On the first one, the inside pockets that holds the phone were made from a heavy clear vinyl, which I wasn't really thrilled about. On the second one I purchased a rubber case to fit the phone and mounted inside the case I made. After discussing with a few helpful forum members in the "Critique My Work" section, the thought of trying Kydex occurred to me. I like it, and plan to use it for now on. I think it makes the case look more professional. Critiques, ideas/suggestions are always very welcome. Thanks! Bob

Very cool idea with the tools. I like that. (I also had difficulty seeing the "JD")