Jump to content

Hags

Members
  • Posts

    1,068
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About Hags

  • Birthday 05/28/1954

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sequim Washington
  • Interests
    Leatherwork, golf, fishing, shooting.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Mostly holsters and sheaths
  • Interested in learning about
    many more things
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search for leather sewing machines

Recent Profile Visitors

9,026 profile views

Hags's Achievements

Leatherworker.net Regular

Leatherworker.net Regular (4/4)

  1. Long answer. For pistols, I trace the pistol, measure the width of the slide. 1/2 of that plus 1/2 that of the leather used. Allow for mag release on the back ect. Shorten just a tad at the lower end of the trigger guard. This is for a pancake holster. 1 inch to the inside of the belt loops. The stitch line stays the same for a drop holster. For a chest holster, I figure the balance point and place attachment points accordingly. For a revolver. There was a very good video of this and if I find it I will attach it. I build up behind the top of the front sight to the height of the sight to the back sight. I use thin plywood or a dowel rod, tape it down. Then trace the gun. I take 2 narrow pieces of leather the same thickness I'm using for the holster, and connect them at one end. Rivet or stitch. Draw a mark where they connect when parted. That becomes your line of reference at the sight line. Hold this along the sight line and starting at the trigger guard, make a mark where the leather touches. Proceed down the revolver every place it narrows to the end of the gun. Go to your tracing and transfer your marks. Placing the sight line mark on the sightline working from top to bottom. This will be your stitch line. I believe it was Adam's leatherwork that did the revolver video. Just my 2 cents worth.
  2. Very nice! I've been wanting to make a case for my old speed 6.
  3. Ditto on the notebook covers.
  4. This is from their performance line. I was able to Google the gun so, production? Thank you.
  5. It's actually called Protect All. It comes in a "spray" bottle, but it's really a loose paste.
  6. Speed wax on top 3 coats. I always nfo after dye.
  7. Customer wanted non Shiney. 8/9 Hermann Oak Dark and Light brown fiebings 207 bonded nylon top and bottom Cobra class 3 I finished the I side with 100 %resolene, then just wax on top. Lefty...
  8. Check the holster section. Finished the inside with 100% resolene, then just a wax on the outside. 8/9 Hermann Oak Dark and light brown fiebings dye 207 bonded nylon top and bottom Cobra class 3
  9. Hags

    The Alamo

    Grew up in Texas. Been to the Alamo several times. Nice work.
  10. Thanks folks. I've thought of trying the steel wool or such. I use 50/50 pretty much anyway. Haven't thought of talc. Good ideas.
  11. I have a customer who wants his holster to not be shiny. I usually use Resolene but that is a glossy finish. Any suggestions?
  12. I think I have that Schrade. And i really like the Canadian leaf blade. Nice work!
  13. Very nice!
  14. Ditto the grip clearance. I usually leave about an inch under the grip and clearance behind it. You also want be careful of covering the mag release in the back. Nice work though. I like the detail.
  15. Hey all, Been busy, but I'm still building holsters. This another big one. It still needs to be fitted to the customer, but is finished. S&W Stealth Hunter 7.5 in 44 mag 8/9 oz HO veg tan Fiebings dark brown body, light brown front 277 top and bottom Cobra class 3 Resolene 50/50 with water And, 2 speed loader pouches 5/6 oz HO Same dye and thread. Belt clips on the back I put a loop on the shoulder strap for a speedloader Also lengthened the bottom connectors so hecould hang them there.
×
×
  • Create New...