Hags

I can se where it would. Do you supply the knives, or just the sheath? Very nice! I have thought of doing something similar with a knifekits.com modern tactical, a very nice, substantial knife, and maybe a 2 blade trapper.

Pretty cool.

I've made a few. I do mostly pancake holsters using info I got for designing them that JLS leatherworks had posted on here a while back. I use Hermann Oak vegtan in 8/9oz with a reinforcing piece on the front. You'll hear arguments both ways about the front piece. It's really not needed in my opinion, but it gives me a place to tool a little and give a color contrast. Lots of you tube videos, Andrew's leatherworks, adam'sleatherworks, road agents leatherwork (I believe that's Chakotay here on the site). If you can, look at adam's leatherworks on you tube, he shows how to design and build several holsters. I use virtually the same process. I also modify my pancake holsters so they can be worn on the front of the chest. This has been a popular design for me with hunters, backpackers, horse back/quad riders, or people with large revolvers that can't be easily drawn from the hip. I started hand sewing, but have since bought a cobra class 3 and have not looked back. I also now use a vacuum system to start the molding process. Again, not really needed. I've done many without it. I have a few blue guns. But, at $75 to the door, they get expensive fast. I wrap the gun I'm building for in the plastic you get for moving (saran wrap will work) and use that to mold the gun. I use fiebings pro dye a d resolene cut 50/50 with water inside and out. This gives me a nice finish that hardens up well and still will flex to the hip. I have not seen any cracking of my finish and I have several customers that use them for edc and serious hunting. IL. Post a couple of pics so you can see. PM me if you like. I am not a pro at this, we have several on this site that I aspire to match at some point and hopefully they will respond as well. As far as potential problems. I let my customers know that they are carrying a FIRE ARM, don't be stupid. I haven't had any issues so far.

I'm going to have to build a western rig at some point. Looks very nice so far.

Thank you, I usually burnish my pieces during wet molding. I use a flat boner to do the edges then go over the whole thing. I really like watching the color come out. The drier it gets, the more the burnishing affects it. The resolene (50/50 with water by the way) just seals it in.

I have made several holsters for this young man. This is his "grouse gun". He carries it elk hunting. Ruger Mk II Tactical with a Vortex holo and a Silencerco Sparrow silencer. It's kinda long, so the hole in the bottom is for a tie down. 8/9 oz Hermann Oak Fiebing pro dye Saddle tan and Dark brown Resolene 277 top and bottom on a Cobra class 3 Always fun to do something different.

Nice!

Goliger leather in California sells HO. Reasonably priced, and the branded hides are a bargain. Some of the brands are cool and I can work them into a note book cover or some thing. You'll have to call them, you can see product and pricing online, it's cant order online. Tell Cheryl that Gary in Sequim sent you. Ask for some HO tags and stickers. They'll include them for free. Cheryl explained to me that any stores buy large tannery runs and grade them themselves. They buy A and B grades from HO. I buy the branded a and b grades and while not perfect, they are very nice in my opinion.

Yep, I use wet canvas or a rag.

Very nice.

Scrap leather...

Nice work! One of my favorite revolvers.

I struggled trying to get even curves for fobs and other items using a knife. Not such a big deal for large curves. I had pretty good luck cutting the bottoms with a set of half round punches off Amazon, about $20 i believe. Eventually I went with a die cutter (now have 2) for about $60. I use it on a 1 ton arbor press from harbor freight. Also about $60. Great way to burn through a bunch of scrap.

I have a Cobra class 3. The holster plate is used for stitching around belt clips and stuff like that. You use the right top feed dog, no bottom feed dog. This allows you to get very close. Mine has no serrations.

Nice Chuck!