SouthernCross

I would love to have that, sir! I have just designed a holster for a lady to carry her gun in her purse and I plan to make it so she can secure it by safety pinning it to the inside of her purse.

Other than Tandy and Barry King, what are some other makers of tooling stamps?

Is there a way to tell by looking at them if they are the older knives? I see some on Ebay listed as "vintage", but that doesn't really tell me anything,

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good swivel knife that won't break the bank? I've been using the knife that came with my Tandy leather kit many years ago and it's pretty pitiful. For one thing, it's too short for me and nin-adjustable.

I would suggest making a plain un-tooled area at least 1" around the initials.

For my holsters, I spend about 20 hours, at least, in the design and refinement of each one. Then, just a few minutes stitching it up...by hand.

It's not exactly the same, but I can smell some in there. I also smell something that I believe is lacquer thinner too.

I think a design like that is going to require a laser. Search youtube for info on laser on leather.

Fiebings is liable to stain your teeth if you drink it, though.

Does it not look like it will be suitable? Yes, I certainly understand that, having recently received some of Barry's stamps. I'll never, ever purchase any more Tandy stamps.

Chas, I did not. I went in the store a few days in advance of the sale and took a look at them. I felt like I needed something heavier than the lighter ones, and lighter than the heavier one. If the mallet had been 2 lb. instead of 1 lb., I probably would have gotten the set. I need about an 18-20 oz. maul, and about a 2.5-3 lb. mallet. I think I'm going to try this mallet: https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Good-WD205-Mallet-18-Ounce/dp/B002LVUWQ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2CSNCNLTAMBM8&colid=E7DIP6F40EDP

Gotcha. Thanks.

BTW, tell me more about the hotbox, tearghost.

Thanks for the info, tearghost.

I don't want more blending - that's my problem - I want LESS blending.

No, I don't have a picture of it afterwards....because once it became "ugly" I stained it all black. I'm guessing the 50/50 light coat in-between will solve my problem. How long do you let the stain dry before you mist it...and how long after you mist it do you put on your next color of stain?

I like to make up holsters and various pieces with a "faded" or "sunburst" stain pattern. For example, I'll stain (by spraying) a piece yellow using Fiebing's Pro Dye, allow it to set a while, and then airbrush around the outside using a darker brown color, and finally finish it up by airbrushing a really dark edge (usually black) on it. It will look really good at that point, but after 24 hours or so the colors bleed or blend together more than I like, resulting in a more muted color scheme. If I do a nice, dark, black edge the following day it's not so nice and dark anymore. What are some ways I can help avoid the colors merging together so much? Should I mist a coat of Resolene or Tan-Kote on the piece in between each color step...or something like that? I have attached an example of what I'm talking about; however, it looks pretty good here but didn't look quite as good the following day.

Would you like a piece of antler? I'm a deer hunter and have plenty of spare antlers laying around.

Very nice straps, sir.

Bump this thread. Anything for us east coast boys?

Sno-Seal shouldn't be able to penetrate through Resolene, should it?

Why is the weight a concern?

I may just do that then.

OK - fair enough. At least they're on the right side of the fence.

Someone just this week told me that if you were a military veteran that you get Elite pricing at Tandy. And why the hell didn't they tell me that 10 yrs ago when I first got started!?