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McJeep

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Posts posted by McJeep

  1. Posted · Report reply

    I've used a light hammer on occasion as well, but I also use a scrap of 12 oz underneath (underneath the hammer on top of the leather I'm repairing) it to ensure that I don't replace the feet marks with hammer marks ;0) It works not bad for blending things in and doesn't burnish. I try to keep it away from any tooling of course.

  6. Posted · Report reply

    This is 5-6 oz leather lined with 3-4 oz leather making it i guess around 8-10oz. Both sides that connect with each other are this thickness so once the two pieces are snapped together you have a piece of leather thats easily half an inch thick if not more. Like I said what I've done is recessed the leather to allow the post to clear and be set. I'm guessing my solution is really all that can be done unless they make an oversized snap.

    Ayup, that's a lot o' leather! Never seen a snap that long before. Anchoring it though one layer before attaching the two layers probably wouldn't work??

  7. Posted · Report reply

    There likely comes a point where it's impractical to do snaps due to the nature of the beast - if they were to get too long in the shaft, I would imagine they would be too easy to bend etc.

    You haven't given any specifics as to what actual thicknesses of leather you're referring to - actual dimensions would help people know where to point ya :)

  9. Posted · Report reply

    Nice! Modified basket weave?? How do you find it for wear with the braiding around the edges - what I mean is does the braid itself hold up well or might there be some wear issues in the lonnnnng term?

    Always amazes me how even some of you folks can get braiding done thumbsup.gif

  14. Posted · Edited by McJeep · Report reply

    I like using the double bar buckles - anyone know of a supplier that does them in stainless in sizes above 1" ??

    As for inner layer skiving, I stop my inner layer with a butt joint at the end of the outer layer by the buckle turnback (hope that makes sense) and it smooths the area out a bit this way. My inner layer is solely to provide a moisture barrier and provide a good way of anchoring the D ring (I like mine at the top of the collar vice by the buckle) from moving around.

    I use peened solid copper rivets instead of speedy rivets.

  15. Posted · Report reply

    Zowie, McJeep! A gizmo!! Better, a gizmo and a PLAN!!

    If I can still find my pocket slide caliper that could be a real deal.

    Thank you, thank you!

    LOL, no problem - as for the dremel idea you mentioned, I'd go buy a stitching awl instead - drill bits remove leather and leave ugly tracks where the awls just *part* the actual hide and the hole heals around the thread better - the rotary hole punches for when you do lacing etc work well but are hand intensive - I prefer the single punches and a small mallet - it also allows me to clamp the piece down with a straight edge as a guide to ensure that the holes end up being true.

    Have fun - LOTS to learn - I'm still a rookie but 95% of what I have learned has been from the masters on this board that are generous enough to share decades of experience.

    And for what it's worth - I'm hammering away on a discarded sink cutout too LOL :)

  16. Posted · Report reply

    I'm just starting on dog collars - I use two layers, if for no other reason than to be able to sandwich things like dog tag and leash rings between them. That way the rings are around the entire thickness of the collar itself thus making them stronger - I make mine for big dogs ;0)

    I've been using 3 or 4 oz latigo for the inner layer to aid with moisture issues like wet fur, and 7 to 9 oz leather for the actual collar.

    Bottom line in my book is if someone's got a water dog, the need to swap to a nylon collar when they head to the beach if they want the nice leather one to last.

    Biggest lesson I've learned - do not skive the collar leather down in order to make things flatter and more attractive where it attaches to the buckle - that one didn't last long with an excitable 100lb Rotti pup LOL :) Will start producing them for clients once I think I have the design down as perfect and safe as possible.

  18. Posted · Report reply

    Holy crow that seems complicated - 1 ounce = 1/64th of an inch, give er take - easy peasy :) (8/64 = 8 oz = approx 1/8 thick) Can't remember where I got that from but it seems to work.

    I have a digital micrometer (for reasons besides leather) that I use all the time when judging leather - I find a piece of leather that "feels right" for the job at hand, measure the thickness in inches, and then multiply the answer by 64 to get the "ounce" weight that I need to order. So far the combination of micrometer and intuition has done good :)

    Hope it helps

  24. Posted · Report reply

    No such fees through the post office. If people are not aware of this it is a very nasty surprise when they receive their item.

    Actually, the post office can and does charge those fees on occasion (random and dependent on individual post offices I believe) so the surcharge thing "could" still happen. But when it does, it's still no where near the exorbitant fees that UPS etc charge ;0)

    Overall, if there's no rush involved, the posties are a better bet $$$wise

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