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McJeep

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Posts posted by McJeep

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Most will be black but I'll likely do some in gurly colours ;) Might do some with reflective material added as a safety feature for bikers as well. Will definitely have to do them in batches to cut the time factor down or I'll only make about $3 / hour! LOL

    Just the one wide strap - putting it over the head so it's across the back is more stable for use when motorcycling etc - it has an adjustable webbing strap at the other end to accommodate over one shoulder or across the back wear.

    Cheers

    R

  12. Posted · Edited by McJeep · Report reply

    Hey Kevin, I also got sick and tired of the lack of "calibration" in the Tandy stamps - poorly designed IMHO - so I came up with two things that work for me when doing dog collars with names on them.

    Vertical alignment - I built an adjustable fence - 3/4 plywood board and a slotted piece of bar stock that bolts down to it - I use washers to change the height of the fence depending on the weight of leather it has to clear - if it's not an item that can be slid against the fence I just "lightly" scribe a line with a stylus to follow with the top or bottom of the letter block - they seem not bad for calibration in the vertical

    Horizontal alignment - this is where the bugger of these things comes in, NONE of em usually have the same excess on the sides of the actual letter script (leaving the last letter in place seldom resulted in even spacing) - I use a clear plastic ruler - when I stamp a letter I take the stamp off - then I align the ruler to desired spacing on the very edge of the last letter stamped (the blank bit on the end of the ruler is usually 1/4" ;0) - I then take the next letter and slide it over to touch the end of the ruler (the actual letter script, not the side of the block) - remove the ruler while holding the stamp in place - whack that mother!!!

    Works for me and my lettering is now spaced properly every time - give it a shot bud.

    I also added a piece of masking tape to the ruler so I could write a warning that anyone touching said ruler would have a drastically shortened lifespan - yeah, I'm married and have kids ;0)

    Hope this works!

    Rob

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Hmmmmm, I just noticed this same thing on my "about me" section as well - it says from Victoria BC as it should but flag is US and country Afghanistan

    When I try to adjust the about me in my profile, all I get is a screen that is identical to what I would see if I'm posting or replying to a message???

    So could you change me to Canada please Johanna??? LOL

  14. Posted · Report reply

    So I reverse engineered my favourite pack sack after the original fell apart ;0) Am pretty sure that people smarter than me go get training to learn this type of thing. There are a LOT of details in a bag that I never ever thought of before trying to build one! Lots of head scratching went on during different phases of construction - fairly pleased with it for a prototype and think I'll start producing them after I tweak the templates a bit and add some other features I think would be handy.

    It's basically a medium sized pack intended for quick jaunts on the bike (when one doesn't want to mess with bungee chords etc) or should be handy for just about anything. Made of oil tanned leather - unlined - side zipper access and smaller zippered pouch on face of the bag. The strap is angled (and length adjustable) so that it's comfortable over one shoulder or across the back for when one is riding.

    Thanks fer lookin :) All advice appreciated as always :)

    303868_10150342496556673_686971672_8484225_948285_n.jpg

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Not sure if it's the picture or your technique but your graphics seem to have smooth rounded edges to them - do you carve the design and then stamp etc, or is your work all done with stamps? Either way, it's a great look - just curious about your technique :)

    I really have to do some playing around and teach myself to form leather - haven't tried it yet at all - looking forward to it :)

    15835_179579739442_799069442_2732001_1221122_n.jpg

  18. Posted · Edited by McJeep · Report reply

    wow - a lot of adjustment - I was reeeeally hoping I could just adjust on one stitch LOL

    Thanks much! Time to go play I guess - practicing eats up a lot of hide - running out of scraps ;0)

    edit: on a second read, not so much adjustment - I get it - never thought of counting back so many and adjusting with a simple tug during the feeding of the piece

    Claro ;0)

  19. Posted · Report reply

    44 views and no replies

    Is it too basic a question to be bothered with? Have I not worded it to make it a clear question?

    Maybe this'll help - Say I put a stitching groove down the edge and around the point of a belt - I then stitch all down the edge alllmost to the point but I know the next stitch will fall outside the groove - how to I shorten up the stitch when coming to the point so I can make the turn and keep "colouring inside the lines" so to speak ;0)

    Brand new to the machine thing folks - hepp a nooby out ;0)

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hopefully I put this in the appropriate area :)

    I'm pretty much starting out in the leather biz, having done some motorcycle gear and miscellaneous items thus far.

    It turns out that there is nobody locally repairing harnesses etc for the local equestrian crowd and touristy carriage companies down town. I've been approached about doing some repairs on straps and harnesses etc.

    My questions are:

    How much of this type of repair work can I expect to be able to do with general knowledge of leatherwork - ie: should I be able to fix most stuff with general tools (I do have a machine as well) so long as I have the broken rigging to duplicate?

    How much should one charge for this type of work - is it more pita factor than it's worth?

    I know I don't have the knowledge to get into saddle repair or the like at all, but harness work seems pretty straight forward - or do I know so little about it that I'm oversimplifying things?

    As always - all advice is appreciated

    Rob - letting the business decide where it wants to go based on demand :)

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Newbie alert!

    So when sewing on a machine, how do I get the stitching to match up to my grooving when I come to the end of a straight run and need to make the corner or something like that - ie: at the end of a collar and i want to cross the collar or belt to go back on the other edge?

    Is it as simple as raising the foot and manually positioning so the needle will come down where I want it to? Or will that leave a loose stitch or some other dastardly mess?

    Thanks in advance folks!

    Rob

  23. Posted · Report reply

    found a wee trick for cutting the taper on the lace (I use the 1/8 lace a lot and it's hard to hold it to cut the taper)

    So I started using a utility knife blade by itself, lining it up to the angle I want, and tap with the mallet - nice clean points for screwing into the permalock every time

    Now if I could learn how to join two pieces rather than having to braid the ends into themselves when starting a new piece of lace, I'd be happy ;0)

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