8thsinner

This should probably be put in the contract forum but it's rarely visited and this is quite a specialised skill...My friend asked me to make him a plague doctor mask for halloween, and I don't really have the leather or basics on making this sort of thing. Heres a picture he sent me. Now he probably came to me cause I would have made it for him cheap, he's a student and doesn't have much money. Is there anyone here willing to do this project for me, I can give you his direct number if needs be. It just needs to be a simple thing.

The crushed stem gives out a clear looking liquid to start but after oxygen does it's job it turns brown.

In one of our forth coming ranges there will be some Basic Machine and or Hand stitching requirements. We can provide the leathers or can pay directly your local shop for collection if you have one. We are very interested in pursuing the luxury range with new carving designs, For this you must be able to create your own work though we will provide the images...No paticular style specialist though. Your name will be added to our list of designers on the website, which may help your own business ideas develop...

I have worked out several variations of products in different ranges and wondering about a few things. Heres the dynamic to start with to give you an idea My partner is the financeer, admin, and book keeper type. I am the designer, laborer, net guy, sourcer and supplies type. We have an initial 6 ranges of products for home and person. mostly ranging in jewelery and furnishings. We are not sure how its best to start. We definately want to release more than 1 range to begin with. We will be advertising on a website and ebay We have been doing very little of any thing other than discussing different methods of doing things to start up... So several questions have come up 1) Range display. (This question applies to more than one range of products) - Should we make enough of the range to photograph the main product only. - OR - Should we make enough of the range to photograph, + cheat on display products by providing partial pictures of that range using different colours, It's cheating because were not saying we have that product just implying it, whilst keeping enough supplies back to make a handful of any product. 2) Database codings (She will be writing this bit) - Because we will have several ranges of products I personally like the coding system where the - reference number = production code eg references to a product in our data base broken down as follows. - (Range - Subrange - Size - Material - Material 2 (or reference code to a material number the same as the supplier) - Example SSR-CHK-25-H29-RED = Stone and steel range, choker, of 52 balls (13") made with (obsidian) using Red leather. notes In total we will be offering lots of variables within the range, such as colour variations, upto 30 in some cases, so the data base itself will be quite large. Completely guessing approximately the total number of products = 3000 The data base will be used mainly in house for stock levels, inventory on certain types of products available for wholesale for printing for clients etc, Also this reference number will be on the picture of the product in the customers gallery section for custom orders, So that future customers can simply request this product again. So her data base understands it when it's been ordered and stuff and I understand it when making the product. This to me makes a lot more sense than using product numbers plain as 0001-2999 And I know I am being completely selfish in this area because I am used to working in situation where using the production codes become second nature. But are there any alternatives or other benefits from using the simple numbers versions???

Hey guys. I have been searching for weeks for a certain manufacturer of a component thats part of another product, I don't want to say what that is now. But I need some tips on how to search it. You can assume the company that makes the product will not reveal where they get the parts. Also, it's possible the component maker is a non english speaking company. PM me if you are good at searching for things like this or can offer some advice.

I had a load of things posted for this thread last night, but whilst my net was futtery I went over to play S.T.A.L.K.E.R. But that crashed comp...Well I am back now to add a few of my words.... I don't often cut inlays and overlays but for cutting shapes and what not... 1) SHARP + POLISHED blades, means yes strop the blade, even if you have no stropping compound, jewelers rouge works just as well. Smooth = less friction. 2) Wet leather cuts easier but can increase drag if the blade sticks hence smoother blades. 3) Start where you want to stop and start where you want to start, make them meet in the middle, Takes more practice but it's definitely more accurate... 4) MOVE the blade fast, faster cutting speed means less chance of a drag but also on the micro level the leather opens itself for you... 5) Use a curved edge where the leather is getting cut, the rounder the better. This means it's cutting it's way through the leather not splitting it apart through force alone. 6) I tend to get cleaner cuts at the front from cutting through from the back. I think this is because the back is softer and easier to cut so also helps to set the cut angle for the front if that makes any sense... Thats all for now..

The only thing I have tried so far personally and not on leather, but for ink, is oak and dandelion. The oak galls I used gave a jet black ink after just a week of soaking. The dandelion a nice dark brown. I would love to have all of these tested on leather. I know for a fact oak galls work to give a deep black. Oak galls are the round balls of solid matter (similar to nuts I suppose) upto an inch across, almost completely spherical, they can be knocked off the tree easily. They are a trees method of removing toxins, so oak trees near road ways are fantastic for them around this time of year as it happens too they are in abundance but falling fast. by the time the first frost hits they will be mostly gone. Also young ones are amazing. you usually get 5-10 from an adult tree, but a ten year old I once picked nearly 30 from. I suppose all of the above in a vinegar rust mix will dye leather very well...It would be great to get a compilation of colours and info about them all though, and I will end up with a list twice as big if I do some more research probably. That was just a quick one on possibilities and old time secrets. But I will happily compile it all into a PDF book when completed.

Awesome pillow. How about next time adding some fur to the back though?

On the subject of natural dyes, as it has come to some popularity of late. I have decided to post a simple list of all of the most popular tannin high trees and shrubs. In most cases if you google the name eg Oak natural dye, you'll get a hit in the first five or so about it. Sorry it's not in a more alphabetical list but also add dandelion, nice dark browns from it... Enjoy Silver fir, Mimosa, Green wattle, Sweet acacia, Blackwood, Golden wattle, Blue-leaved wattle, Amur maple, Mountain maple, Horse chestnut, Tree of heaven, Alder, Grey alder, White alder, Red alder, Sitka alder, Mountain alder, Marsh andromeda, Madrona, Strawberry tree, Bearberry, Coast banksia, Chitra, Siberian tea, Cherry birch, Silver birch, White birch, Mysore thorn, White cypress-pine, Red cypress-pine, Heather, Tea plant, Hottentot fig, Chestnut hybrids, Bush chinkapin, Japanese chestnut, American sweet chestnut, Chinese chestnut, Ozark chinkapin, Chinquapin, Sweet chetsnut, Chinese chinquapin, Chinknut, River she-oak, Carob, Spurge olive, Redoul, Cornelian cherry, Mountain dogwood, Hazel, Smoke tree, Berry-bearing catchfly, Broom, Rimu, Native hops, Male fern, Lemon-scented gum, Ulmo, Stinkwood, Native cherry, Ash, Cut-leafed cranesbill, Spotted cranesbill, Wood avens, Chilean hazel, Honey locust, Gunnera, Witch hazel, Alpine heuchera, St. John's wort, Yellow flag, Japanese walnut, Heartseed walnut, Black walnut, Walnut, Larch, Dahurian larch, Japanese larch, Tamarack, Sub-alpine larch, Western larch, Larch, Siberian larch, Dunkeld hybrid larch, Labrador tea, Wild rosemary, Sea lavender, Tanbark oak.

I have read similar to this before for dying rawhide. The iron oxide from the rust is the key to holding the colour fast and pretty much any acidic compound works. Usually it was oak galls that were used over here as far as I know, And I have made black as black ink this way. Never thought of trying vinegar though. I would still look for a fallen oak anyway and strip the bark from it. Cool to know though thanks

Now that is top class work my friend, underside and everything. I feel privileged to witness such work. And I love that samurai, I would like to see the original trace of it. And if your interested I have about a hundred similar patterns of Japanese demons and stuff...

I have been milling over this thread whilst scoffing my day old 16" pizza left overs and I just wanted to point out where I am right now... Joined here not that long ago, came on last week with a new bracelet idea asking for critique... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...mp;hl=8thsinner It was a good enough response to encourage myself and my girl friend to start it properly... I wore it around showing off to a few people to get extra feed back. Ordered some stuff and now I have two bracelets from today sitting in a shop local to me selling them at £20 with a 17%profit to them deal. It's not perfect but it's getting my idea out there. I have been working on a website which should be up this week and ebay should be ready for it too soon. I wouldn't be in this position if not for this forum... What have I learned? I have a long long way to go before I am ready to give up my non existent day job, I am way way out of practice with what used to be a rather proud braiding skill, and I will be keeping you all up to date on progress through this site. Now, personally I like the idea of this forum gathering itself into a global leather selling place indexing hundreds of different types of products. It's never going to happen, which is fair enough. I go to forums to learn,offer help, ask questions and sometimes join a forum just to say how great they or a product is...rarely do all these combine... I am happy enough

Thanks guys for the super fast feed back, I knew of usa cord and le prevo, but can anyone vouch for the quality. I have been thinking about using usa cords anyway for their bolo cords as the pics make the stuff look good, So failing everything else I will go with them cause they can provide two items. I know bachelors in london too as one of those links posted, posted, as they where my supplier when I was in london. But now I am in northern ireland and theres damn all here. our local craft shop sells...oh get this, waxed cords of all sizes, yeah read a total selection of 25 including about 15 colours....grrrr Wish I could run my own craft shop. Again many thanks for being on the ball tonight.

I have taken the next step with getting supplies and started selling my bracelets seen in the show off thread... But the supplier I used for 1mm leather black round thong is atrocious, it's cheap thong thats basically only varnished with colour. So I need a good supplier of dyed through strong if possible black thong. I knot it can be bought in england as I have aquired some before but god only knows which shoe shop that was in. Can anyone recommend a good one preferably in the uk?

Yes, once a web page address is saved as a favourite it becomes a book mark.

I love that look. Simple leaves but very well done and effective. I would call it a sheath though personally. Nice colour too

On a similar note, tattoo flash patterns often have great animal styles which probably could be put on leather quite easily. I have built up a folder of these which include, japanese demons, tribal, flash, gothic, religion, nature, bondage and a few more... btw, thanks for the extra source, downloading now

Was just in the other bookmarks post and thought what else do you like? And more accurately, If your like me and have a million hobbies and likes how do you organise them. I have been looking for a way to organize everything of mine for ages. I am sorting through computer related stuff these days and will be for a few weeks probably so I could do with some extra ideas before I finish on how to sort overall...

I have in storage grants encyclopedia and most of stholman's books as well as ashelys book of knots. I am looking a new advanced braiding book which covers pineapples and braided button knots, I also need it to brush over the basics a bit too. Any suggestions anyone? An amazon link would be great. thanks in advance...

The charity shop beside me changes people every day because they are all volunteers, the woman on monday is nice enough to give me for free any leather jackets, skirts and pants they have when ever they have them. Otherwise still a good resource the rest of the week... Old skips outside closing down pubs and renevating type companies often have old leather sofas going to the dump. Might take you thirty minutes in the skip cutting it up but often the old stuff is better made and well worth the effort..Just needs a bit of cleaning up. Cheaper run down areas too often have skips piled with goodies... Pallets are a goodsoure for wood as has been discussed, in the uk the blue ones use a better quality wood... thats all I have for you, sorry theres not more Great idea for a thread.

Looks damned efficient doesn't it... Very cool

And again, looks nice. But does it really make that much difference using one of these, I never have so I don't really know. I have tried to make one before but it never worked. Any tips?

THat looks like a fine machine there leerworker. Nice post

I would suggest simply prestretching the leather. I do that for all of my braid work now and theres virtually no stretch once it's finished. Just wet the strips for an hour or so in warm water then pull them around something smooth edged but with a little grip. For thinner laces I use a sigg bottle with a speckled sort of finish, this grips well enough. Make sure you are not pulling it as tight as it can go but close to it. Once it's dried leave it a day then repeat the process. Usually by the third stretch you won't be able to stretch it much more without breaking it. When you are braiding after this the leather is a little less forgiving but the end result lasts longer by far. And you definately should use some sort of braiding soap...

Pip, weapons without weapons are sort of my speciality with leather and I have several so far... Heres one I will share Have a look at the watch strap, the base of which looks just like a comforter...Nope it's a love sling without slits... Poke two holes below the level of the cross ways braid, insert a boot lace and tie it up so it leaves both holes and locks onto the cross braid with a larks head. Tie them off at the right length and a sling is made... If you need to you can punch a series of three or so holes just to help it balance during the spinning process...